Well . . . if you opt for heart, in the ten seconds of thought I've given it, you could do the following:

• Get a simple heart box
• Put three small balls on the bottom (one at the point and one each at the curves) to act as legs to lift the box off the ground a little bit so the sound comes through clearly. You could use small wooden balls found in craft stores - probably in same aisle as the box you find. Attach with Gorilla glue or screws.
• Put three wooden standoffs inside the box at about the same locations as the balls to support the false bottom. The standoffs should be just a bit taller than the tallest item inside. I'm guessing this would be the battery holder, but may be the circuit or speaker.
• Pick up a thin piece of wood to make the false bottom with. Balsa is real easy to sand to size, but may be a little to soft for optional step below. You should be able to find something in a craft store - again, likely in same aisle or close by to box aisle.
• Trace/draw shape of inside of box to make cutting template. Transfer to thin wood and rough cut with band saw or jigsaw or handsaw, then finish with sandpaper.
• Now, you can opt to mount everything to bottom of box and add holes or "lifts" so user can remove false bottom or attach everything to false bottom. If the latter, the user can simply flip the box over and the weight of battery pack will cause bottom to fall out onto user's hand. This has the added benefit of make battery changing easier. You'll have to make some contacts so power will get to the LEDs, but that shouldn't be too difficult.
• Don't forget to drill some holes in bottom of box to allow sound to pass through bottom of box unmuffled.

 

That sounds like a fantastic idea. Thank you so much for all of your input and ideas throughout all of this planning, there's definitely no way I could've done this by myself

I'll try to attach everything to the false bottom, as the sounds pretty cool and extremely useful.

 

Always glad to be of help when I can.

 

I just went to the art store to look at boxes and realized I didn't like any of the ones I saw. Instead, I picked up some 2 foot by 3 inches by 1/2 inch wood to make a box myself.
I know the sound card is 5.10 inches by 3 inches, but should the box be any bigger than that specifically or does it not matter as long as that and the battery pack fit in the bottom? I still plan to have the fall-away false bottom with the contacts for the LEDs, the LEDs be on the lid with a lip, and having it in the shape of a heart.
Also, should I buy all of the other components (battery box, switches, LEDs, and hinges) before I start planning?

 

I know the sound card is 5.10 inches by 3 inches, but should the box be any bigger than that specifically or does it not matter as long as that and the battery pack fit in the bottom?

If it doesn't impact your overall design negatively, more room is always good. This quickly brings us to your second question . . .

Also, should I buy all of the other components (battery box, switches, LEDs, and hinges) before I start planning?

. . . because as I've learned the hard way, sometimes the information given on a website and what you get don't always match.

I suggest purchasing the sound module now and if you're not pinching pennies, pick up the battery back you'd like to use locally. You can use the switch included with the sound module to test it. This way you can verify the dimensions, start playing with the sound module when you want to take a break from the box construction, and test the module and battery pack inside the box along the way to make sure everything fits and sounds good.

As far as the rest of the parts it depends. You can either a) design everything ahead of time, model them in a CAD program if you have one handy, then order all your parts or b) build your box and find the parts you need to make it work afterward. The approach depends on the project and the person. There is a risk in b) as you might not find something to work without a lot of modification, but there's always the case in a) that what you buy ahead of time ends up not fitting or working as you need it. In either case, just be sure to be mindful of how to route power/wires between the lid and the bottom and where and what kind of switch you'd like to use to control the electronics.

If you have a chance to draw up some plans (by hand is fine - just take a good picture) and post them here, I can pontificate about possible switch solutions if you'd like.

 

Okay, I can buy both of them sometime this week.
It shouldn't be bad as to how big this is, as long as it's not too big.
For making a model, I'll try to get a sketch-up of it on here as soon as possible. I'm really an awful drawer, so it'll either be a really poor sketch or I'll get my girlfriend to draw it up for me.
As for routing the power to the lid, you said to run power from the battery pack though wires, then into the two hinges, then into the LEDs, right? As for getting power to the sound card, do I just have to solder the leads from the battery pack to the card? Also, how would I split the power to the LEDs AND to the sound card if there is only one set of leads?
Would I still be using the normally closed momentary switch, too?

 

As for routing the power to the lid, you said to run power from the battery pack though wires, then into the two hinges, then into the LEDs, right?

You'll want to test the hinges first to verify this works, but yes.

As for getting power to the sound card, do I just have to solder the leads from the battery pack to the card? Also, how would I split the power to the LEDs AND to the sound card if there is only one set of leads?

You'll first want to remove the batteries that came with the sound module. I'd suggest stripping and twisting another wire to each of battery pack leads then soldering the two (each) twisted leads to the sound module. This will give you another set of leads without having to solder twice or to another spot.

Would I still be using the normally closed momentary switch, too?

For the LEDs, yes. For the sound module, probably, but you'll want to test the included switch to see if it open or closed when the module is off. To do this, with switch in the "off" position, remove the switch wires from the module and test the wires with a meter. If there is continuity, then you'll need a normally open switch. If there is no continuity, then you'll want a normally closed switch. Put the switch in the "on" position and check again to be extra sure.

You may get by without removing the switch wires by checking for resistance/continuity across the points where the wires are attached to the module. Be sure to remove the batteries when doing this though.

 

I'm gonna try to get the drawing made up sometime over the weekend, as I'm swamped with schoolwork at the moment.

Do you mean something like this?

Okay, I think I understand that. What kind of a meter do I need?

 

Allow me to take some pictures and show you what I mean in the next day or two. I think you have the concept right, I just think pictures will help clarify.

As far as a meter, any simple, cheap digital multi-meter will do. Are you in the U.S.? If so, you can pick one up from Harbor Freight for four bucks: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html. If you get Sunday papers (coupon pages) or certain magazines like Family Handyman, there is often a coupon for 20% off and a free item - sometimes the free item is this meter.

 

Okay

Alriggty, I'm gonna get that.

By the way, the box is going to be seven inches by seven inches by seven inches



EDIT: Here's the draw-up. If you need any more information or can't read it, just let me know.

EDIT: I just bought the sound card and multimeter. I'm not sure how long either one will take to be here.

 

Hello? Have you made the diagrams?

 

Whoops, sorry. Here is what I meant. Just be sure wires used are same gauge or thicker than battery pack wires.

 

Thanks That's what I was thinking

Now, I have a couple questions. I have to solder this to where the batteries would be soldered on the board, right? Also, would this require me to desolder the original batteries or just solder over them?
Do you know where I should get my LED's from? I was thinking of getting the "5000mcd 3mm Green LED Quantity : 100pcs" from ledshoppe.com, but I'll probably only need 6 or so, not a hundred. Should I just get these, as they seem relatively cheap, and just keep the others for future projects or something?

 

I have to solder this to where the batteries would be soldered on the board, right? Also, would this require me to desolder the original batteries or just solder over them?

The batteries will just slide out. The only part left will be the battery holders, but you can leave them there. The three batteries are likely connected in series, meaning the circuit probably runs off of 4.5VDC (1.5V + 1.5V +1.5V) - each battery is 1.5VDC. I'd suggest using the meter to check the voltage with all the batteries in place to verify the circuit is indeed using 4.5VDC. You'll need to locate the + and - power going from the batteries to the circuit. If these are in series, one + side of one of the batteries goes to the circuit and one - side of another battery goes the circuit. The remaining + and - sides will connect to each other.

Example: Batt1, Batt2, Batt3
Positive side of Batt1 goes to circuit.
Negative side of Batt1 goes to positive side of Batt2.
Negative side of Batt2 goes to positive side of Batt3.
Negative side of Batt3 goes to circuit.
Measuring voltage across circuit power (positive Batt1 and negative Batt3) will show 4.5VDC.

If this is the case, you'll remove all batteries on the music module and solder the positive battery wire to the positive battery contact where the positive side of Batt1 went. Then solder the negative battery wire where negative side of Batt3 went.

Take good, clear pictures of both sides of the music PCB when you get it, and I can provide drawing of where and how to take measurements with your meter. Also take a good picture of the front of your meter.

Do you know where I should get my LED's from? I was thinking of getting the "5000mcd 3mm Green LED Quantity : 100pcs" from ledshoppe.com, but I'll probably only need 6 or so, not a hundred. Should I just get these, as they seem relatively cheap, and just keep the others for future projects or something?

I happen to have these LEDs. I took a quick video comparing that one to two other green LEDs with far less brightness: http://youtu.be/_OWlvm5bS7E.

The LEDs from Ledshoppe are cheap and great, but at 5000mcd these are nearly as bright as flashlights bulbs. These are great for outdoor displays, but for something indoor, they may blind anyone looking directly at them. Now, one way around this is to either put a translucent cover over them to help diffuse the light and not make it as bright or to simply sand the LED. I just tried that with one of these and while it is not quite as bright, I'm still seeing stars after looking at it.

If one of the other two LEDs I show in the video look bright enough to you, you can get them from mpja.com or several other places. Unfortunately, one is out of stock at the moment (great price too, 100 for $2 plus shipping). Let me know what you think.

http://www.mpja.com/3mm-Green-LED-Diffused-Pack-of-100/productinfo/15102+OP/

http://www.mpja.com/3mm-Green-LED-Non-Diffused/productinfo/0972+OP/

 

Right. I meant the holder, not the physical batteries. You're saying 1.5V + 1.5V + 1.5V, does this mean I have to get a battery holder that fits three AAA batteries? The only three AAA battery holder they have at radioshack is apparently extremely flimsy. I saw a four AAA holder that has a five star rating- http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062254 - and was wondering if this would work instead.

Okay, I'll do that. The sound card should be coming this week, I think. If not, it'll definitely be here next week.

As for the LEDs, I like the non-diffused ones shown in the video. I was thinking of getting twenty, just in case, from the website you gave me. However, the shipping is going to be a whopping eleven dollars! Do you know of a place that would have these LEDs with a lower (possibly free? ) shipping rate? If you don't know off the top of your head, I'll look it up myself.

 

You're saying 1.5V + 1.5V + 1.5V, does this mean I have to get a battery holder that fits three AAA batteries?

Yes - if you use a four battery holder, you'll be supplying 6V (1.5V x 4) instead of 4.5V to the music module. I don't know if it is designed to handle that or not. If not, that could damage it. You can either stick with a three battery holder or give the music module company a call and see if the module will safely operate from 6VDC.

If you're concerned about the RadioShack holder, you can just add it to your list of parts to order online. Mouser.com carries a lot of battery holders - I think you can even get them made of aluminum if memory serves.

However, the shipping is going to be a whopping eleven dollars!

Wow. Sounds like it's time to pick an online electronics supplier. There are many choices and sometimes one has something the others don't that you need (or at a much better price). So you'll need LEDs and likely a battery holder. So let's start with a design. Can you draw and post the circuit you have in mind? This should include the total number of LEDs you'd like to use, battery pack, music module, switches, etc. Don't worry too much about the wiring or how the parts are drawn - I'll help you with that. I just need to "see" your proposed circuit and all the parts you can think of. From there I can draw a circuit and help you find a single supplier with all or most of the parts you'll need. This will save you a lot on shipping by using a single source for all the parts at once instead of multiple sources at different times.

 

Oh, alright. I'll just see how the one from radioshack is first.

Here's the sound card. Tell me if you need a clearer picture of a zoomed in shot of one part.

Here's the multimeter.

Do you want me to try to draw it as it would look inside of the box or just if I wired everything beforehand? I think it would be a bit easier if I could draw it without the box. Also, do you think I should just use the momentary switch, and if so, where should I draw it in the diagram?

 

Do you want me to try to draw it as it would look inside of the box or just if I wired everything beforehand? I think it would be a bit easier if I could draw it without the box. Also, do you think I should just use the momentary switch, and if so, where should I draw it in the diagram?

Just draw it as it is to be wired. You can leave off the momentary switch for the moment, just draw it as though you were hooking it up to stay on all the time.

Could you remove the batteries and take a few good clear pictures of the board? No need for the speaker. I'd like to "see" the traces around and under the battery holders. This will help us determine where power is going and what you need to hook up to. Thanks.

 

Okay, I'll try to do that over the weekend.

It turns out the batteries are soldered to the board. You can see that on the two top batteries in the picture. What should I do?

 

It turns out the batteries are soldered to the board. You can see that on the two top batteries in the picture.

I see the battery holders are soldered, but I don't think (can't see) that the batteries are. Those types of holders just about encase the battery so they don't get loose. You should be able to use a screwdriver and "push" the battery out the side of the holder.