Just some minor board revisions; a few details and I swapped around the way the new SSR's are getting their IR's lit up.

Some work needs to be done with wire color coding, as otherwise it will be easy to get confused. If you can get an assortment of colored shrink tubing, that would be a wonderful thing to have. You can snip off short pieces of it, and use it to color-code wires in two colors; the base color and the shrink tubing.

 

I purchased the UHF receiver
http://www.mcmelectronics.com.au/PDF%20files/Radio/MCMCLX4.pdf

pages 1 and 2 have info I do not understand. mainly how can a NO terminal be used on a NC circuit as indicated from the image attached.

Ohmmeter confirmed open circuit between the top two terminals.

 

Looks like an error in the datasheet.

 

I am trying to correctly calculate the watt of the 560 resistor. The SSR max. input current is 50mA. If I use that then I need a resistor rated at 0.6Watt.
is that correct?
thx

 

From post #44 I see that Sgt chose 20mA.

20mA x 20mA x 560R = 224mW. Choose 0.4W for the resistor.

You wouldn't choose 50mA for a device whose absolute maximum rating is 50mA.

 

As I mentioned before, 20mA should be adequate to turn on the SSRs; 20mA is where their Vf is specified.

Praondevou showed you how to calculate wattage using current^2 * resistance, but didn't explain how he arrived at the 0.4W rating. One might think that since 224mW was the result, that you could happily use a 1/4 Watt resistor. This is much too close to the maximum rating for the resistor.

For reliability's sake, you should multiply the wattage calculation result (224mW) by 1.6 in order to ensure reliability. If you can't remember 1.6, then just double the wattage result.

So, 224mW x 1.6 = 358.4mW. This is not a standard value of wattage rating for resistors. The closest standard value is 1/2 Watt/500mW. I will add 1/2 W to the resistors value fields in the schematic, and make sure that there is extra room on the board for the resistors. When you are assembling the board, you should have these resistors stand off from the board by 1/4" to 1/2" to provide for better cooling - even though they should not get very warm to begin with.

If you wish, I can add LED indicators so that you can see what the state of the SSRs should be. This will mean a change of the resistor values to lower than 560 Ohms. You should let me know if you want this feature added.

Also, as to your reply #62 and the error in the datasheet - you will need to verify what is actually connected to what, and whether the connections are NO or NC.

Try from the top terminal (#1) to the 3rd terminal down (#3), and then from #2 to #3.
Then test from #3 to #4. According to the datasheet, this should measure nearly 0 Ohms with no power applied.

Please report back your findings.

For safety (and sanity!), a full verification check on the transmitter/receiver functions should be performed prior wiring anything up. This will save time should anything go awry later.

 

R5 has been eliminated.
R4 has been changed to 470 Ohms.
U4 pin 4 now connects to U5 pin 2 instead of the ENA/DIS switch.

This change has the emitters of U4 and U5 being operated in series rather than parallel, reducing the circuits' required operating current by approximately 1/2 when the remote is disabled. The receiver will remain powered, but will not control the door.

[eta]
At this point in time, I don't know if you are planning on using switches that mount on the board, or use connectors to the switches.

I also don't know for certain what kind of connectors you are thinking of using on the board to connect the wires to the remote control relays. Refer back to the terminal blocks that I posted links to earlier.

 

If you wish, I can add LED indicators so that you can see what the state of the SSRs should be. This will mean a change of the resistor values to lower than 560 Ohms. You should let me know if you want this feature added.

Also, as to your reply #62 and the error in the datasheet - you will need to verify what is actually connected to what, and whether the connections are NO or NC.

Try from the top terminal (#1) to the 3rd terminal down (#3), and then from #2 to #3.
Then test from #3 to #4. According to the datasheet, this should measure nearly 0 Ohms with no power applied.

Please report back your findings.

For safety (and sanity!), a full verification check on the transmitter/receiver functions should be performed prior wiring anything up. This will save time should anything go awry later.

I do not need extra LED for the SSRs.
All transmitter/receiver functions have been verified.
Waiting for the new drawing.
Connector will be chosen once I receive the SSRs and see what I have around here in the shop and what I am willing to go through to connect all in an acceptable safe manner.

Thank you

 

In reference to the last paragraph in my last reply, it is the connectors in this post:
http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showpost.php?p=429381&postcount=54

Things remaining to be defined:
1) HV terminal blocks: one (1) 4-connection high voltage block - OR - two (2) 2-connection high voltage terminal blocks.
[eta] CORRECTION - a total of 5 HV terminals are needed; so one 2-connection and one 3-connection, or one 5-connection HV terminal block.

2) LV terminal blocks: three (3) 2-connection low-voltage terminal blocks for the receiver relays; two 2-connection for 12v/gnd in and 12v/gnd to the receiver (total five (5) connectors)

3) Switch for Enable/Disable Remote: SPDT ON-ON type; if board mount, just the switch; if panel mount, will also need one 3-connection low voltage terminal block - OR - two 2-connection low voltage terminal blocks.

4) Optional LED indicators for:

• ENA/DIS
• RMT-STOP
• RMT-OPEN
• RMT-CLOSE
• fuse blown (red)
• 12v-on (green) *
• fuse good (green) *

If any/all of the above options are desired, then additional resistors will be needed. Also, depending on how you want the LEDs mounted, they might need panel mounts and board connectors, or some clear plastic rod material to bring the light to the surface of the panel, etc.

I suggest a minimum of the starred items (12v-on, fuse good). These can be operated at a very low current (say, 5mA for super-bright LEDs).

I don't know how good you are with fabrication. It really should not be too complex, but having access to a drill press would be a big help. You will need to drill holes in the enclosure front panel for the board mounts and LEDs, and they will need to be drilled reasonably accurately. You can use the bare board as a template for marking the hole positions.

A minimum of items 1) through 3) need to be defined before I can update the schematic and board.

[eta]
Samjesse,
The thread is now 8 pages long, just in case you didn't notice that.

 

I just received my SSRs.
Can I use a breadboard I happened to have or the 450v 200mA will cook it?

 

No, you cannot use a breadboard with 450v. It would be unsafe.

Here is a rough draft of the circuit board. I don't have the LED indicators for +12v on or fuse good yet, and the fuse holder and terminal blocks are basically "place holders" until the final ones are decided upon.

The grid is 1/2" squares, so the board is 2" tall by 3.5" wide.

The blue areas are copper traces/fills on the bottom of the board. The red areas are copper traces on the top of the board. The black area in the middle is the high voltage area. X6 and X8 are the high voltage terminal blocks.

 

this is very nice. But how am I going to get this made and how much will it cost? I do not know even where to begin. let me google for a cb manufacture and see if they can do it and how much.

 

Just a guess says somewhere in the neighborhood of $30. The board measures 2" x 3.5", so that's 7 square inches.

BatchPCB charges $2.50 per square inch plus a $10 setup fee, so that's $17.50+$10 = $27.50 plus shipping. I have no idea how much shipping to Australia would cost, but I can only imagine that it is not a bargain.

BatchPCB is here:
http://batchpcb.com/index.php/Faq#cheap_pcbs

I haven't looked at Aussie PCB houses much, but here's one:
http://www.pcbfast.com.au/quote-request/

You might look around on Australian electronic-related sites to see what your mates are doing about getting boards made downunder, like these folks were talking about a couple years ago:
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=745120

I can make the entire board single-layer; all the traces on the bottom.
The original idea was to have most all the high voltage items on the bottom layer, and the low voltage items on the top layer, just for clarity. However, vias and pads (the green areas) go completely through the board, so simply keeping things on different layers doesn't do much for high voltage electrical isolation. Making it all one layer won't really change anything as far as cost by a PCB house, but it's a LOT easier to home-make a single layer board than a two-layer board.

But this is really not a project for a first time attempt at a home made board. It might sound really easy to do, but it takes practice. Your first dozen or so attempts at making a PCB at home are apt to be quite disappointing, and you may in desperation be sorely tempted to use a very "dicey at best" board. That's not the thing to do with a high voltage project that you need to be safe, and last for many years.

Now that I'm thinking about it more, it really will need to be a two-sided board for convenience' sake. If the switch for enable/disable will be mounted on the board (and the LEDs will need to be mounted there), then the board will definitely need to be mounted to the back of the box face plate.

That means the terminal blocks will need to be moved to the underside of the board, or the screws will not be accessible without removing the board from the face plate, which would be quite inconvenient. Also, removing the board from the face plate would risk damage to the LEDs, which will be vulnerable when not mounted on the face plate.

So basically, making the PCB at home is not in the cards.

 

I made up the wiring loom and kept the 12vdc with the UHF 2 meters away from the box where the SSRs will be, I remember reading that this needs to be to keep interference away from the UHF. A black plastic box (will put some more holes for cooling will house the SSRs and the Enable/Disable switch, which is already mounted to the bottom side of the box. I do not have the camera now with me.

I do not mind changing all of that for a cleaner setup. Please make the file and I will send for a quote. much appreciated.

 

You can locate the UHF receiver a fair distance away from this control board. The control board should be in a box that is close to the existing switch box. You should connect the two boxes with conduit.

You will need to run 5 wires through the conduit to the original switch box:
BLU - goes to the white/close switch and motor.
RED - common to all three switches; also connects to BRN going back to the motor.
BLK - goes to the black/open switch and motor.
MRN - maroon; comes from the motor.
MRN2 - goes to the red/stop switch. This could be a maroon wire with short pieces of black or colored shrink tubing wrapped around it periodically to differentiate it from the plain maroon wire.

Still need the enable/disable switch, and whether it will mount on the board or separately.
Still need to decide on the terminal blocks for HV and LV
Still need to decide on the LEDs to show that 12v power is on, and the fuse is good - unless you really don't want those options. If you do want LEDs, then on-board ENA/DIS switch would make the most sense.
Need to decide on the box to enclose it in. The box should be about 4" square on the inside to give room for the board and the wires. You don't want it to be a squeeze fit.

 

How do you do multiquote? I tried but not sure the steps. i.e. I clicked on the " then what?

 

this is very nice. But how am I going to get this made and how much will it cost? I do not know even where to begin. let me google for a cb manufacture and see if they can do it and how much.

I've made a list, look here:

http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/blog.php?b=475

 

How do you do multiquote? I tried but not sure the steps. i.e. I clicked on the " then what?

I clicked the multiquote ["] button on your question, and then scrolled up to another of your replies:

this is very nice. But how am I going to get this made and how much will it cost? I do not know even where to begin. let me google for a cb manufacture and see if they can do it and how much.

and also clicked it's multiquote button; then I went back to your last reply and clicked the

button. As a result, I would up with both of your posts in one reply.

 

OH. I see.
No. I mean how do you multiquote parts of the same reply? some boards like "yelp" has this function.

 

I just insert pairs of [ quote] and [ /quote] (no spaces) around what was said before.

Above the reply box, there is a menu; one of the items is this:

If you just click that button, it will insert a pair of quote tags in the text.

If you want to quote a big hunk of text, just highlight the text by clicking/dragging, and then click the

button.