add remote control function to a roller door

SgtWookie

Joined Jul 17, 2007
22,230
Do you know how much current passes through the switches?

You could find out by placing a 1 Ohm resistor in series with the maroon wire to the stop switch, and measuring the voltage across the resistor when a button is pushed.

Since R=1 Ohm, and I=E/R, the voltage you read will be the current flowing through the resistor.

[eta]
ACK! :eek: I forgot you are working with 450V DC, so you can't use the following TRIAC SSRs, as they will not turn off. :(

Thyristors (SCRs, TRIACs, etc) will not work.
[/eta]
If the current is low enough (it probably is, but you need to test it) then you might use something like this:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-solid-state-relays-ssr/6675212/
SSR Triac Non-Zero 0.9A 600V DIP8 SMT, £0.65 each, 5 minimum from RS online UK

or this: (same part, but thru-hole instead of surface mount)
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-solid-state-relays-ssr/6675203/
SSR Triac Non-Zero 0.9A 600V DIP8, £0.84 each, 5 minimum from RS online UK
 
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SgtWookie

Joined Jul 17, 2007
22,230
Gosh, I thought you said AC earlier on? :confused:

Oh well, false alarm then.... do you have a way to measure the AC current? A clamp-on type meter would work just fine.
 
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SgtWookie

Joined Jul 17, 2007
22,230
Should I then ignore your #22 "second part of the" post?
Ignore the part where I said they wouldn't work due to it being 450VDC.

What we need to know now, is how much current goes through the wiring when you press a button, and how long does it last?

I don't know if the switches are the latches, or if the latching happens at the motor end.
 

Thread Starter

samjesse

Joined Sep 14, 2008
212
...
I don't know if the switches are the latches, or if the latching happens at the motor end.
I think at the motor end because I disconnected the wires from the back of each switch and with the ohmeter I verified open and close switches are momentary, the Stop is closed all the time and momentary when pressed.
momentary = ohm sounds continuity only when "Open and Close" switches are pressed, and stops sounding when Stop switch is pressed and sounds again when released.
 

Thread Starter

samjesse

Joined Sep 14, 2008
212
using picoscope, with inductive amp clamp around the maroon wire. pressing the open then stop then close then stop. every switch press I get a spike measuring more than 600A. is that what you are after?
 

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SgtWookie

Joined Jul 17, 2007
22,230
600 AMPS? :eek: I don't know offhand why you would see that much current. I have a feeling that you are just seeing the result of inductance in the wiring combined with switch bounce.

What does the current read when you hold the button down for more than an instant; say, a second or two? Does it still read current but at a low amount?
 

Thread Starter

samjesse

Joined Sep 14, 2008
212
trying all the switches, the max. amp. I get in the maroon wire is 205mA when holding the switch as you indicated.
 

Thread Starter

samjesse

Joined Sep 14, 2008
212
after 2 hrs. of searaching and calling around. I hope this is the correct one, sold by nph.
RS1A48D10
http://datasheet.octopart.com/RS1A48D10-Carlo-Gavazzi-datasheet-5377496.pdf

$60 and 40 days wait.

or this
http://www.oceancontrols.com.au/SSR-200.html
much cheaper and available now. And the control board
http://downloads.rhinoco.com.au/rxpror4-manual.pdf
And DPDT
still looking. so hard to find things down under. I might just bite the bullet and order every thing from the US and wait. but again, I have to search around till find some one who ships int'l.
 
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SgtWookie

Joined Jul 17, 2007
22,230
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SgtWookie

Joined Jul 17, 2007
22,230
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SgtWookie

Joined Jul 17, 2007
22,230
They're AC only. The SSR's have TRIACs internally. If you tried to use them with DC, they would turn on, but not turn off until power was removed somehow.
 

SgtWookie

Joined Jul 17, 2007
22,230
pins 2 & 3 for the DC control circuit, pins 6 & 8 for the 415vac from what I read.
that leaves 2 unused pins. correct?
thx
2 - anode on low voltage side, must be current limited
1,3,4 - cathode on low voltage side; any one or all of them can be used, but at least one must be used.

6 and 8 are the output HV AC switch.
 

SgtWookie

Joined Jul 17, 2007
22,230
those SSRs should be mounted on a generic circuit board, soldered to the wires. correct?
It would be best if a custom board were made.

[eta]

You will need terminal blocks in order to connect the wires to the board. I have not looked for those yet.

You will need to have the board in an insulated enclosure.

[eta]

OK, I've updated the schematic to show those SSR's and the resistor values

Haven't added the relay and updated the switch yet. It's getting late here and I'm getting tired.
 

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