I was thinking more along the lines of an Analog Devices ADXL335 analog accelerometer. .3V/g output should be about the right sensitivity. (No need for a micro-anything.) Scale the output to drive a voltage controlled amplifier (or any other device that will control the amplitude), and you are done.

Mark

 

Thank you dear Mark for the kick, that's what I need!
Interesting, but where can I find a circuit for it, which regulates a LED's brightness?
I ever have been only into hobby electronics... yet, I can solder the parts according to a circuit schematic and change them to suit.

 

Here is a circuit that I think will work for you. Circuit notes:

1. D1 can be one two or more LEDs in series.

2. R3 sets the scaling of the voltage in, verses the LED current. Vin/R3 = Iled. So, a 100 ohm resistor will give you one milliamp of LED current per every .1 Volt input.

3. R4 will set a bias point for the LED. There are two reasons for this control.
- The output of the accelerometer is biased at 1.5volts. The output varies around that bias point.
- You do not want the LED to be off with no movement. You want the LED to get brighter is one direction and dimmer in the other. R4 will allow you to set that point.

4. You can use a variety of different parts for U1 and Q1.

Mark

 

- You do not want the LED to be off with no movement. You want the LED to get brighter is one direction and dimmer in the other. R4 will allow you to set that point.

First of all a big thank you Lestraveled for sharing your expertise and the great kick to help myself!
What you quoted is correct! Also, as mentioned, since the LDR is parallel soldered to the 10K Pot of Yamaha's MFC10 (MidiFootContr), I can adapt the overall Tyros3's Vol.

So, this ADXL335 LED driver circuit is merely designed to drive Vol peak variation effects into the melody.
Now, I still need to know how tho connect the 3 outputs of the ADXL335 to this circuit !!
Maybe I should buy one of those ready built ADXL335 basic boards? My guess would be to connect any one of its 3 outputs or all its 3 outputs via signal diodes or resistors... but that's only guessing, which only sometimes works!

 

Jeez, I'm so glad having successfully converted that 120-bass (single PB switch) accordion bass section to MIDI. It was so hard, because it involved soldering each chord combination of each button. In the end I added another note to the bass/ terz buttons.
Now it really sounds like a full, juicy-rich accordion accompaniment with two notes in the bass and 4 to 5 notes in each chord button!
The great thing is that it's MIDI controlled and so, not only plays accordion accompaniments. It even controls and enriches Yamaha's styles!
I truly recommend this MIDI conversion to any accordion player playing modern Synth Kbds. The result is like having overnight gained 10 year of Kbd expertise... Blow spending $7000 on a Roland V-accordion!
Before building mine, I built/converted a 120-bass, mechanically based accordion bass section. It was far easier to do, because the button's bass and chords were already mechanically combined. All I needed was to construct some (gold/ silver wire contact switches onto its 24 air valves and I sold it on eBay to an American music shop for about $400, decorated with the cloth of my old shirt...
The fact that it sold in 2 days proves that there's great demand for it! This project can be easily manufactures, using sleek PCB etc. Let's get into business, to bolster our age pension, Mark!

The disadvantage of the mechanical accordion bass section was that each button was much harder to press, because it had to mechanically activate up to 4 valves + switches, whereas my single switch buttons of my Farfisa accordion bass section's are super-light to activate, because they only activate one single contact!!
The disadvantage of that was the terribly boring and tedious wiring job... and I'm glad it paid off! I guess it's worth about $1500, but I can't afford to sell it!

 

I spotted an OP-Amp connection on Google, showing that the accelerometer output can be directly connected via 1K resistors. Please see attached circuit. Of course I would then use your OP-Amp circuit, instead. So, my guess in using 3 resistors wasn't all that bad after all. So, you think it might be OK?

 

jjj
Thank you for the offer but, going into business sounds like work. That would interfere with my play time. I can't have that.

Mark

 

Yes... me too... I hate to forfeit my "golden age" freedom, but we could make other's work, instead.

 

Yes, your circuit would work very well. I am sure you will need to adjust the scaling (sensitivity) once it is built.

Mark

 

It would be my pleasure to assist.

 

Yes, you are right... for as long we are able to enjoy our "play time", enjoy good health and able to pay the bills, we can't be bothered to aspire to more materialistic gains.

So, I'm ordering a couple of these $2.19 incl. ship, here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GY-61-ADXL3...t=Home_Automation_Modules&hash=item3a9212695a

I wonder, what is that other chip on this PCB?

 

The ADXL335 is a 3.3volt chip. The Ebay data says 3-5 volts. I don't recognize the number but I am pretty sure that it is a voltage regulator or a zener diode.

Mark

 

Yes, that must be it! Thx, again, Joh