Power connections. Ok, that makes sense and I have some recollection of that now.

I'm not concerned with using the smds. In fact I kind of like having to visualize a project in one plane as you're able (forced) to do with these. It's trickier to solder, but probably less prone to error in the end.

What would be the advantage of the opto coupler with triac? Sounds terribly expensive.
Hey! Digikey has a...
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/D...ang=en&site=us&keywords=MOC3023MFS-ND&x=0&y=0
for less than a buck (god I must sound like a noooooob to you guys).
That's one quarter of what the relay costs, solid state, what's not to love? Will I be able to figure out a pretty straightforward swap with the relay, or am I going to have to come back and bug you guys some more?

I was able to catch them in time to add all the changes to the order. I even threw in two of the MOC3023MFS-ND at the last minute. If I can rob the appropriate smd caps off of a junk laptop's boards I'll be tearing into this by the middle of next week.

I'll check back in with progress.

Thank you soooo much for your comments and wisdom guys.

 

Hello,

The advantage of an optocoupler versus relais is speed and durability.
The relais contacts may get bad (burned in) afther some time.

As you might know the MOC is only the optocoupler, it has very less power.
The triac is needed to give the circuit some beef.
See the schematics in the datasheet.

Bertus

 

Yeah, the relay I had in there was rated max one amp on the contacts so it was pretty much going to be driving/signaling another relay anyway to engergize anything substantial. So the optocoupler is a nice addition here. Is it as straightforward to wire in as the relay? I'lllhave to read the application notes on it a little closer to see what's going on.

Does the triac onboard have enough "beef" to energize a relay with 10 to 20amp contacts?

 

Hello,

When you use a MOC optocoupler with a triac, you do not need a relais at all.
You are creating a solid-state relais that way.

From the datasheet:

Bertus

 

Hello,

What is the object of having a wireless connection?
Do you want to indicate the current in the cable also somewhere else wireless?

Bertus

PS I see you deleted your post.

 

I deleted the post. I realized that I ought not abuse my privilege here by getting too far ahead of myself. If I get this circuit to work, I'll go on to the wireless part.

In short, if I can light a bulb (indicator) to signal current in the cable, I'd like to see if there is a very simple, single chipset, method of accomplishiing this wirelessly. Same circuit. Just using the optocoupler to feed an xmit RF IC, and another recieve IC some distance away that will operate a relay to light that bulb.

 

Hello,

I think it is indeed a better way to have a stable circuit first, that can be expanded later with the remote possibility.

There are modules like xbee and zigbee to have wireless communications.

Bertus

 

I looked a the xbee line. I'd have fifty dollars worth of parts just to start out as well as some programming learning curve. Nothing wrong with learning a new skill. It's just not one I'd be likely to use again within the time required for my brain to retain the basics of it. Kinda like high school French. The xbee products are capable of much much more than the simple task of a single RC spst momentary switch so I'm sure the cost is reasonable for anyone who can utilize that functinality.

If there are no well known circuits floating around the web for this I'll just reverse engineer a 9.99 wireless lightswitch from Menards and order the four dollars worth of parts from DigiKey needed to emulate it.

 

Here is the original diagram. Someone pointed out to me that the polarity was questionable on U3.1 and U3.2. I corrected it in the second diagram. Is this right?

U3 is the optocoupler. I"m using the http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=160-1373-5-ND
Do I need another resistor between it and U1 since I'm now powering an led instead of a
coil on a relay?

I have been trying for days now to master a little bit of DipTrace. It is the fourth pcb program I've tried (also tried Eagle) and seems to be the best for a beginner. I'm having many headaches with the library, component editor, and pattern editor however.

VR1 is a trimpot with the following dimensions

And U3 is the optocoupler with the following dimensions...

If anyone is familiar with Diptrace and can assist with how to translate this info into components and patterns I'd be very very thankful.

 

What ever happened to this idea? It is hard to believe there is no current-sensor-switched 115v power supply that would perform this task, but like the original poster, I cannot find one. Closest I have come is something like this for switching the humidifier on using the fan current from a furnace:

http://electronicaircleaners.com/aprilaire-51.aspx

Did you succeed in getting a circuit together?

Thanks,
Karl

 

I didn't read the whole thread, but it seemed the OP wanted a current detection in a welding cable, Honeywell has had these specific devices used for Plasma current detection etc.
You will have to add output components for what ever the end purpose is.
http://sensing.honeywell.com/products/current_sensors?Ne=2308&N=3027
Max.

 

It has to sense both AC and DC, which takes a hall sensor apparently. Basically the original poster wants to switch the water cooler for the torch on and off by sensing current in the torch lead. Should be 115v minimal amps like 40 watts maybe. Like a temperature controller with a triac but using current instead of temp thresholds. Needs to come in a small box with the sensor lead and two plugs 115v male supply and female to the cooler motor.

 

The Honeywell components switch on AC or DC currents. CSDA model
A small LV PS and use the output to switch a Triac, couldn't get much more compact than that.
Almost build it into a single or double surface mount outlet box, fitted out with a female and male receptacle in the front plate.
Max.

 

Ok I will look up the parts and source them.

 

The Honeywell components switch on AC or DC currents. CSDA model
A small LV PS and use the output to switch a Triac, couldn't get much more compact than that.
Almost build it into a single or double surface mount outlet box, fitted out with a female and male receptacle in the front plate.
Max.

The output of the Honeywell is only 0.4v. I have not found any triacs with that sort of gate voltage.

http://sccatalog.honeywell.com/pdbdownload/images/csda1ba-s.pdf
http://sensing.honeywell.com/index.php?ci_id=49792

For now, it looks like 115v to the box, an internal power supply with 5v DC output to the Hall sensor, then some sort of signal processor between the Hall sensor and the triac to get the triac to switch the outlet on.

I will have to do some more triac homework.

Thanks,
Karl

 

As referred to in the PM, I have found the ones I have lying around in the shop, I will see I have time to play with them and see how they can be set up, the ones I have are not the ideal version, (CSDA1DC) but will suffice for testing.
The .4v is the voltage out WRT common when the open collector is ON.
Max.

 

Wireles control. This is the "detector" box. Current sensor clamps to tool (or in this case welder).

http://www.amazon.com/iVac-Pro-Tool...=UTF8&qid=1392078021&sr=8-5&keywords=ivac+pro


Here is the switch box. Plug water/gas solenoids into it, or plug in power suply for them. Available in different voltages.

http://www.amazon.com/iVac-Pro-Swit...=UTF8&qid=1392078021&sr=8-2&keywords=ivac+pro