Hello
Have anybody in this forum put together the kit ( k179 stepper motor kit together).
Question is after putting the kit together did the stepper motor kit K179 Work?
I put together the kit and cannot get the motor to move ,the motor is unipolar motor.
I notice the motor case get very hot and the motor Don't Move.
Anybody know what can be wrong with the kit?
Thank any good infro.
Mrel

 

K179 documentation and schematic: http://kitsrus.com/pdf/k179.pdf

The schematic looks fine. I have to assume that you didn't connect something up properly, or maybe you didn't use proper anti-static handling procedures with the MOSFETs.

What kind of stepper motor do you have? How many wires does it have?

What are it's voltage and current ratings? More importantly, what is the manufacturer and part number?

Are you certain that you have the motor wired to the kit properly? You can't wire them up arbitrarily and expect it to work.

Do you have S1 and S2 connected, and in the proper position?

 

The schematic looks fine. I have to assume that you didn't connect something up properly, or maybe you didn't use proper anti-static handling procedures with the MOSFETs.

One of the MOSFET Q4 got very hot after awhile with power supply to the board.
I had capacitor c5 hookup wrong so I correct that problem rewire that capacitor in the right way.
But still have same problem no motor move.

What kind of stepper motor do you have? How many wires does it have?

6 leads

What are it's voltage and current ratings? More importantly, what is the manufacturer and part number?

Got the motor from (All Electronics, www.allelectronics.com).
( Motor one) Part number Cat Smt-1108 Mabuchi #PF35T-48L4.
unipolar stepper motor 6 leads
, 7volt 350 ma motor
( Motor Two) North America Philips Cat # Smt-358
12volt 8 watt stepper motor (6) leads ,try both motor ,motor don't move but the case get very hot

Are you certain that you have the motor wired to the kit properly? You can't wire them up arbitrarily and expect it to work.

I would say I did wire it right.

Do you have S1 and S2 connected, and in the proper position?

Put switch on pc board following the drawing on pc board

Mrel

 

Ah yes...the decision. Spend money on troubleshooting a circuit or keep scratching my head and hoping it will fix itself.

Looks like its time to replace a mosfet good sir.

 

One of the MOSFET Q4 got very hot after awhile with power supply to the board.

The MOSFET needs to be replaced.

I had capacitor c5 hookup wrong so I correct that problem rewire that capacitor in the right way.

If you apply power to a polarized electrolytic capacitor backwards, it will be destroyed immediately. You need a new capacitor, too. C5 is the timing capacitor for the internal clock generator. Without it, the clock will run at very high frequencies (MHz range).

Got the motor from (All Electronics, www.allelectronics.com).
( Motor one) Part number Cat SMT-108 Mabuchi #PF35T-48L4.
unipolar stepper motor 6 leads , 7volt 350 ma motor

I actually have a bunch of those PF35T-48L4 steppers, but mine were made by Nippon. They look exactly like the picture on their website page.

The green and red wires are the center taps for the windings; those go to the + motor supply. They'll run OK on 5v for testing.

You can get those motors cheaper from Jameco, if you buy 5 or more the price goes down:
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&productId=171601&catalogId=10001&freeText=PF35T-48L4&app.products.maxperpage=15&storeId=10001&refine=1&history=x99ynpz1|freeText~stepper%2Bmotor^search_type~jamecoall^prodPage~15^page~SEARCH%252BNAV&ddkey=http:StoreCatalogDrillDownView

( Motor Two) North America Philips Cat # SMT-358
12volt 8 watt stepper motor (6) leads, try both motor, motor don't move but the case get very hot

How did you determine with motor two what the center tap (+supply) wires were?

I would say I did wire it right.

Get new parts for C5 and Q4. Digikey probably stocks them, and they ship SMALL orders via USPS 1st Class Mail, which will save you some money.

Taking another look at the schematic, I see they didn't use logic-level MOSFETs. That was a mistake on their part.

Replace all of the MOSFETs with these:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=497-9095-5-ND

Since Q4 was getting hot, it may have been shorted from drain to gate, which could have destroyed IC4, the 4013 dual flip-flop.
Better order one of those, too.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=296-2033-5-ND

 

SgtWookie

Taking another look at the schematic, I see they didn't use logic-level MOSFETs. That was a mistake on their part.

Replace all of the MOSFETs with these:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...=497-9095-5-ND

Are yjou saying I replace all four IRFZ44N mosfet with 497-9095-5 ND?
The IRFZ44N use 55 volts 49 amp ,the mosfet only 30 volts 27amp less volts and amp is that wise to do that weak chip.

Since Q4 was getting hot, it may have been shorted from drain to gate, which could have destroyed IC4, the 4013 dual flip-flop.
Better order one of those, too.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...=296-2033-5-ND

Thank for help Mrel

 

Are you saying I replace all four IRFZ44N mosfet with 497-9095-5 ND?

Yes.

The IRFZ44N use 55 volts 49 amp ,the mosfet only 30 volts 27amp less volts and amp is that wise to do that weak chip.

The IRFZ44N is an older MOSFET that is standard level, meaning that it requires 10v on the gate with respect to the source terminal in order to fully turn the MOSFET on.

The kit only has 5v available to turn on the gate, and that's via a 4000-series CMOS IC. The original MOSFETs have a very large gate charge requirement. The replacements I suggested are economical, are rated for logic-level operation, and have a far lower gate charge than the originals. This means that they will turn ON and OFF much more quickly, and they will fully turn ON when instructed to do so, unlike the originals.

The fact that the current rating and Vdss rating is less is not of much consequence to you, as you're not going to be able to use even as much as 30v with those motors, and current flow through any of the windings won't exceed 1A. These MOSFETs should work much better in that circuit than those originals.

 

SgtWookie
http://kitsrus.com/pdf/k179.pdf
The K-179 stepper motor schematic top right corner say kit supply 6-12 volts,do you know if this is a postive voltage and what is this circuit for ,because below is another postive input for the motor say 6-36 dc volt input .
Does this circuit call for two different power supply one for motor and other power supply what for (don't what for).
mrel

 

I know this is an old post, but I found it through google and would like to post a resolution just in case someone has the same issue in the future. When you order the K179 the mosfets are touching and thus creating a short. Its a simple fix of separating the two sets of mosfets so they work properly. I had the same exact issue that was posted above. It's just one of those weird issues that are so simple you don't even think about them. I do apologize for the bump, but I do feel this will help future googlers on this issue.

 

I also know that this is an old post (and in fact it seems that kitsrus is no longer making or selling this or any other kit), but I built the K179 and it worked fine. Did you remember to install the jumper underneath IC2 (4093)? If you forgot, it's possible (but difficult) to install by removing IC2 from the socket and adding the jumper, and then re-installing the chip. I added a heat sink (fabricated from 3/4" aluminum angle) between the two rows of MOSFETS, using heat sink compound and 4 Radio Shack TO-220 insulator kits. I had originally bought 6 of these kits, from 2 different suppliers. The one I built had the IRFZ44 MOSFETs, as did one other kit, but 4 of the kits had something else. If I can locate them, I will add that to this thread.

 

My last post (more than a year ago) indicated that if I found the other kits that I would provide further information. One of the other kits has surfaced (I'm still unpacking from moving here over 3 years ago) and it used 4 FPQF45N15V2 packages instead of the IRFZ44Ns that my first kit had. Both boards have been built and tested/working with an old 5-wire stepper RFE 5-1/4" floppy drive. Both have my belt-and-suspenders aluminum angle heat sinks.