Alright, this should be a fairly simple one and I feel like an idiot having to ask it believe me. I don't remember any of this stuff from physics and what I do remember was DC. Regardless, I thought it might be fun to build, rather than buy, my 3.5mm stereo switching component.

Anyways, I'm uncertain about what type of switch I need for the project. Does it need to have 5 poles to make sure that each is a completely isolated system? I'm assuming this is the case but I'm not entirely certain.

I also have no idea how to wire this thing. Well, an idea but it's not a great one. I've drawn up a couple pictures so maybe somebody could open paint and draw some lines from certain point to other certain points and tell me which switch I need while your at it.

I just read this thread which could have helped but actually confused more more as he had a 3-pole 4-way switch. Awww dear.

Anyways, sorry for such a pathetic question but I'd like to build this sucker. Thanks so much!

 

oooh, I was also unsure as to whether this belonged here or in the projects forum so I apologize in advance.

 

You want to use a "short-less" rotary selector. That will keep the contacts from shorting (duh)

As for wiring, you just wire ALL the grounds together, and just the reds to the switch poles.

Sorry, you had it correct, I didnt see it was stereo.

 

excellent. yes, i guess shorting was what i was afraid of but honestly, i wasn't even sure what to call it... any idea where to find it or how to make sure it's "short-less"?

basically, all i really need is a one pole four way short-less rotary switch then, right?

 

You can buy them through many on-line companies, I dont know where you are located, so I can t reccomend something local to you. You may want to put your general location in your profile so we where you are. Look in the upper right of most peoples posts. it says join date, location, posts, etc. That will help.

Any way DIGIKEY.com has thousands and you can check there. In the datasheets under specs you will see "Shorting" or "non-Shorting" contacts.

 

I'm in Vancouver but I don't remember the last time I bought something other than a coffee from a retail shop. Anyways, thanks very much. I'll keep the community posted as to how this works out in case somebody else has the same problems.

 

That would be most appreciated.

Anymore questions, you know where to find us. And good luck on the project.
This is something a lot of people are interested in building, so when you get it done, post back. When people new to electronics see the projects from start from a bad drawing to finished product, it gives them the "I can do that" feeling.

 

So far, here's my parts list...

5 x 3.5mm Stereo Inputs

1 x Arrow Selector Knob

1 x SP4T Non Shorting Rotary Switch

1 x Black Box to Jam it all into

Oh, and a bunch of wire, which I just happen to have already.

Hopefully I've got everything right now and I'll keep you posted when the stuff arrives.

 

Alright, so digikey is kind of expensive for shipping just one part. they want $20 to get a few ounces of plastic into Canada. I can't justify spending $28 for a part I can modify for $1.50.

Alas, is there any way I can buy perhaps this SP12T switch and change the number of throws by adjusting or just choosing between the first four? I guess I don't really know whether it's Shorting or not either... Nothing's ever simple.

 

That would be an OK switch if you were just switching mono audio; as it is a single pole, single deck. If you're switching stereo, you need a switch with 4 positions, non-shorting, either DP4T in a single deck, or 2 decks SP4T.

Here's a single-deck non-shorting DP4T:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CKN9482-ND

They don't seem to stock a 2-deck SP4T, but the above will get the job done. Cheaper, too.

 

We cross-posted.

On this page:
http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Switches/Rotary-Switches/Rotary-switches/30304
you can use the:
3P 4W 79-0222 (just don't use the 3rd pole - or if you want, use that 3rd pole to switch grounds.)
or the:
2P 6W 79-0221 (you'll have two extra switch positions)

 

Cross posted again.

Thanks Sarge. I'll pick that 3P 4W one up and see how it works out.

 

Is this how I would use the third pole to switch the grounds as well?

Everything look like it's not going to explode?

 

You'll need to look at the datasheet for the switch.
If there is no datasheet, you will have to use a meter to figure out which are the common terminals, and what are the other terminals they switch between.