Interesting new wall outlet concept.

 

Interesting new wall outlet concept.

I'd like to see an overload to destruction test on it like was done with WAGO connectors.

https://www.leviton.com/en/docs/Leviton-Decora-Edge-Professionals-Installation-Guide.pdf

 

Interesting new wall outlet concept.

First thing I notice between traditional duplex outlets and this new one is that the traditional duplex has the ground screw on the same side as the neutral. The new outlet has the ground on the same side as hot. Not a severe issue, but I always thought it was wise to put neutral and ground on the same side of the outlet.

 

Good idea

I'd like to see an overload to destruction test on it like was done with WAGO connectors.

https://www.leviton.com/en/docs/Leviton-Decora-Edge-Professionals-Installation-Guide.pdf

 

I'm pretty sure it's made to current NEC code but I agree, changing position is questionable. I was always dubious about the back stabs and questioned the amount of surface contact they provided. Looking at one, it appeared that it was only the edge of a blade making contact and using that on something like a high amp counter top appliance outlet was questionable. When I built our house, I instructed the electrician NOT to use the stabs PERIOD! Every outlet, lamp, and switch connection are looped and screwed or wire twisted, nutted and taped. I've not used the Wago connectors and don't think they are suitable for all connections (such as high amp motor connection in a peckerhead for example) but I like the concept. I've seen too many bad twists with loose wire nuts.

 

What? No 5V outputs?

 

Or GFI either... Don't have the cost figures that might scare you off also.

 

They’re $2.50 each in packs of 10. It’s for the DIY guys. It won’t be used by pros

 

Cannot stand any item or connection made for the lazy or wagos. Give me a solid strong screw where to wrap a wire, with not chinese tin contacts. And Leviton can keep their expensive outlets. Prefer the $0.65 from always. These are decent too, under a thick tight plate :

 

I've gone through tons of IDC (Insulation Displacement Connector) parts with almost zero issues, and the WAGO-et-all contact shares an important characteristic. They all depend on a high-force, low-area connection. When you uninstall any of these parts, the wires are nicked. Not in any way bad enough to compromise the integrity of the wire, but enough for you to see just how small the contact area is.

The big difference is that an AMP MTA IDC part has four contact points per terminal. I'm sure WAGO and Leviton have tons of test data, but I just can't see that connection being reliable for 20 years at full rated current. Contact heating is a thing.

About 10-15 years ago where I worked, the company swept through all of the office and lab areas with 34 W fluorescent tubes and solid-state ballasts. There probably was a tax credit at work. The electricians used Ideal In-Sure splices, and swore by them. In that application - 400 mA in a 15 A part - I'm sure they are just fine. But for a wall outlet - ???

ak

 

I would chose WAGO over wire-nuts any day for standard electrical 15/20A wiring.

 

I would chose WAGO over wire-nuts any day for standard electrical 15/20A wiring.

Both Big Clive and John Ward (and probably others) on YouTube have done some pretty brutal testing of Wago connectors with impressive results.

 

It would be interesting to see an infrared pic under load of the new versus old at their rated amps to see just how secure the connections are. Even with the screws the connection is a limited amount of surface contact on the top and bottom of the wire loop.

EDIT: Even if they looped the connection. I've seen too many where they just put the straight wire under the screw without looping it.

 

Years ago, someone at the home office got his hands on an infrared imager. I'm not sure just what their thinking was but they went to each of our facilities with it. Of all the things they could have used it on, they chose to do the office buildings. Less dirt and sweat maybe, who knows. So, on the corporate dime, they traveled to every facility world-wide imaging all the panels, outlets, and switch plates in every office. They had to have an electrician assigned to them to open every panel and remove every cover. As far as I could tell they never found a fault or tightened any connections even in some pretty old facilities.

 

Every outlet, lamp, and switch connection are looped and screwed or wire twisted, nutted and taped.

Same here. Except for the new construction. I chose those 20A outlets (20A circuit) with the clamp inside them. Strip the wire, poke it in and tighten the screw. I preferred to have two wires in each case so that the clamp rests flat, not on an angle.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Eaton-Whit...Resistant-Outlet-Commercial-Outlet/1001464128

Wago connectors

Not used them yet. However, my electrician just installed a whole bunch. Removed a Zinsco breaker panel and relocated it in the basement. Several wires had to be extended. The ET used Wago's. Haven't had any issues yet, and all the circuitry that went above the old panel was for lighting. Nothing heavy. The whole house was wired with 12 gauge wiring. Guess it was cheap back then. Anyone interested in some Zinsco style breakers? Magnatrip, Sylvania, UBI, CEI breakers.

I've seen too many where they just put the straight wire under the screw without looping it.

I've not seen that here. But I have seen "Lamp Cord" inside the wall; flying splices (strip the insulation, wrap wire, solder, tape) in the basement. Broken wire spliced back "Black to White" and "White to Black." That lead to an interesting shocking one afternoon. Also saw eight wire sets (12 gauge) going into a junction box, all the blacks nutted together, all the whites nutted. No grounds. Older home. 1962.

 

Interesting new wall outlet concept.

Hello there,

That's interesting yes. They have those kind of connectors all over Amazon for splicing wires and such. I have not actually tried any and don't have any. I would have to have one in front of me in order to be able to ascertain the effectiveness and estimate the longevity and durability of the item. I myself use more traditional connectors that have 100 years of tried and proven effectiveness.

From the other posts i can gather that they use sharp edge connections. These kinds of connections do in fact work but i am not sure what they can put up with and still work the same as when first installed. For example, how well do they handle vibration when they are making contact with a single wire for 50 years in areas that get hotter and colder and moisture and dryness over time.

What i have found with new inventions for older tried and proven stuff is that you get a fault along with the improvement, and how well it works depends mostly on how bad the fault it, and it is sometimes hard to evaluate years in advance. It's not like they didn't do their homework, but did their homework take every possible scenario into account that the old tech already did and proved worthy over years and years of real life, real application testing.

Imagine wiring your new house with 50 of these outlets and then finding out that they all have a problem after 10 years time. I'm sure that would be fun to fix. I'm not against new inventions, actually for them, but i think this is one area where it just isn't a good idea to change anything that is known to work already. In other words, don't make yourself a guinea pig.

BTW, i do know of some sharp edge connectors that have become bad that i have experience with. These came in the form of inline lamp switches, where you turn the thumbwheel to turn the light on or off. After some time the connections inside become loose and the connection is no longer made. That's the best scenario too, and the current is usually 1 amp or less so there may be little heating, although there will be some heating due to the looser connection internally.
These thumbwheel switches get clamped to the zip cord after you cut one of the wires. The sharp edges of the mechanism make the connection via pressure between the sharp edges and the wires when the screw that holds the whole thing together is tightened. Works great when new, but some years later they can go bad and require service or replacement due to the looser connections now.

Things that require spring pressure are usually designed very carefully such that they maintain that spring pressure even after years of use and some moderate abuse. Things that require pressure and rely solely on the malleability of a material usually don't hold up because the materials are incapable of maintaining any sort of spring-like action, and instead deform. Once they deform, they stay that way and so they are no longer the same shape and no longer offer the same spring pressure that makes the product work right in the first place. Copper wire is far from anything similar to spring steel and so cannot maintain the characteristics needed to keep pressure between itself and some other solid material.
Do the sharp edge connectors have some sort of spring action inside them to maintain this pressure. That would be something to investigate. I would have more confidence in them if they did.

 

A correctly twisted set of conductorswith a properly sized wire nut will not cause problems. The grief comes from the unknowing folks who have no clue as to what they are doing or why the instructions tell them to do it. I have replaced burned up outlets where there were 2 wires under one screw and a third wire under the other screw. My friend was very fortunate tghat the fire did not get outside the steel box and into the wall. And fortunately there was enough slack to allow fresh wire into the 4-conductor sized wire nuts.. So she escaped a wall fire and got her refrigerator and microwave working again. Yes, they do make wire nuts sized for 4x #12 wires.
And those rectagonal outlets and switches/dimmers have been around for quite a few years. So I would not call them "new".

 

A correctly twisted set of conductorswith a properly sized wire nut will not cause problems. The grief comes from the unknowing folks who have no clue as to what they are doing or why the instructions tell them to do it. I have replaced burned up outlets where there were 2 wires under one screw and a third wire under the other screw. My friend was very fortunate tghat the fire did not get outside the steel box and into the wall. And fortunately there was enough slack to allow fresh wire into the 4-conductor sized wire nuts.. So she escaped a wall fire and got her refrigerator and microwave working again. Yes, they do make wire nuts sized for 4x #12 wires.
And those rectagonal outlets and switches/dimmers have been around for quite a few years. So I would not call them "new".

Those types of connector are made for the unknowing folks who have no clue as to what they are doing or why the instructions tell them to do it. It's a safer alternative to screws and wire-nuts for them. Those that do know what they are doing use them (after testing) because of convenience.

 

If you have ever seen the results of connectors like that used with aluminum wire, the fire problem is worse than the convenience gained.
I would use the push-in splicers inside an LED fixture where I know the current will never be even one amp. But never for splicing circuits in a junction box..

 

If you have ever seen the results of connectors like that used with aluminum wire, the fire problem is worse than the convenience gained.
I would use the push-in splicers inside an LED fixture where I know the current will never be even one amp. But never for splicing circuits in a junction box..

I've seen and done all that as a professional on ships, ship-yards since the 70's. I'm very familiar with the problems and solutions to AL wring. My mom's house had al wiring problems. I can promise you the quality approval for lever WAGO connectors on site was not a trivial pencil whip'd approval.

The convenience factor is important even with professionals when they have trust in the product.
https://www.wago.com/us/certificates