Hello Everyone,
I have a side by side refrigerator, GE Model ESS25XGMB from around 2002. A while back it stopped cooling. I replaced the main control board (replacement part WR55X10942) and the fridge is back up and running.
I am trying to figure out what to do with the old board. Is it repairable, if so, what things should I look for, what tests can I do? I don’t see any obvious failures (burnt components, swollen caps, blown fuse etc.). A few pictures are attached.
Here are the tests I have done so far:
Removed the control board to test outside the fridge. Used a cheater cord to provide 120V AC at the terminals at the bottom of the board (J11, marked Line and J7-9 which is neutral) and checked voltage at J2 pin 3 to pin 8 – voltage constantly fluctuating around 9 to 10 V DC. Also checked J4 between pins 2 & 3 – same fluctuating voltage between 9 and 10 V DC. I believe it should be about 13V DC for both those tests.
The schematic and tech sheet found with the fridge is also attached.
If there is no easy way to diagnose/fix then I might just scavenge the board for parts, but first would like to try and fix – both as a learning project and to keep as a spare if the board goes out again.
Thanks for your help.
I have a side by side refrigerator, GE Model ESS25XGMB from around 2002. A while back it stopped cooling. I replaced the main control board (replacement part WR55X10942) and the fridge is back up and running.
I am trying to figure out what to do with the old board. Is it repairable, if so, what things should I look for, what tests can I do? I don’t see any obvious failures (burnt components, swollen caps, blown fuse etc.). A few pictures are attached.
Here are the tests I have done so far:
Removed the control board to test outside the fridge. Used a cheater cord to provide 120V AC at the terminals at the bottom of the board (J11, marked Line and J7-9 which is neutral) and checked voltage at J2 pin 3 to pin 8 – voltage constantly fluctuating around 9 to 10 V DC. Also checked J4 between pins 2 & 3 – same fluctuating voltage between 9 and 10 V DC. I believe it should be about 13V DC for both those tests.
The schematic and tech sheet found with the fridge is also attached.
If there is no easy way to diagnose/fix then I might just scavenge the board for parts, but first would like to try and fix – both as a learning project and to keep as a spare if the board goes out again.
Thanks for your help.
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