$12 variable temp iron - inexpensive backup??
- Thread starter marshallf3
- Start date
maxpower097
- Joined Feb 20, 2009
- 816
ehhhhh that just scares me. Why not cut out the middle man and just wrap a nail with some copper, add some caps and a nine volt!
Do what I do with a lot of projects,let your brain Impulse
post.The guys will give you wikipedea links and help,the
spelling will get better the more you post,to much time
doing spell check,people will be ok since you put It out
front.My kind of guy. What about fire ant mounds in your
area.
post.The guys will give you wikipedea links and help,the
spelling will get better the more you post,to much time
doing spell check,people will be ok since you put It out
front.My kind of guy. What about fire ant mounds in your
area.
That's what surprised me, they come with iron plated tips which are what the good Wellers come with.
The tips on my 2 WLC100s are 15 and 17 years old - still soldering just fine.
The tips on my 2 WLC100s are 15 and 17 years old - still soldering just fine.
PackratKing
- Joined Jul 13, 2008
- 847
I'm hearing it screaming " Made in Chyna " 
You speak chinese?I'm hearing it screaming " Made in Chyna "
Variable temp, but not controlled temperature?
The description says only variable power settings. The dial has no temperature markings. Nevertheless, it claims 5 to 40W or so. As a backup it might not be bad, particularly for desoldering. Did you notice that the small and enlarged pictures are not the same?
John
The description says only variable power settings. The dial has no temperature markings. Nevertheless, it claims 5 to 40W or so. As a backup it might not be bad, particularly for desoldering. Did you notice that the small and enlarged pictures are not the same?
John
I bought a very similar iron from MPJA for $15:
http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=15860+TL
It is not thermostatically controlled, but the wattage is adjustable. You must let the iron cool completely prior to changing tips; the barrel is steel and the tips have powdered aluminum on the shank; the heat makes the aluminum expand and provide a good thermal junction. Once you remove the tip, you need to clean any remaining aluminum oxide from the inside of the barrel, or your tips will get stuck, and you'll have a dickens of a time getting them in and out until you do.
I ordered a few different tips; the 1/32" mine came with is good for the small stuff, but the flat and chisel tips are more appropriate for tinning and desoldering.
I've only been using 63/37 and 60/40 solder with mine. If you're planning on soldering with lead-free solder, you may need a hotter iron.
http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=15860+TL
It is not thermostatically controlled, but the wattage is adjustable. You must let the iron cool completely prior to changing tips; the barrel is steel and the tips have powdered aluminum on the shank; the heat makes the aluminum expand and provide a good thermal junction. Once you remove the tip, you need to clean any remaining aluminum oxide from the inside of the barrel, or your tips will get stuck, and you'll have a dickens of a time getting them in and out until you do.
I ordered a few different tips; the 1/32" mine came with is good for the small stuff, but the flat and chisel tips are more appropriate for tinning and desoldering.
I've only been using 63/37 and 60/40 solder with mine. If you're planning on soldering with lead-free solder, you may need a hotter iron.
It's somewhat a copy of the Weller WLC100 - compare pix.
I read through all the reviews on that site and 95% of them were pro, a few complaining that it didn't get as hot as they expected.
Heck no, for $12 it isn't going to have precision temperature control and a 4 digit readout but neither does my Weller. I just know about where to set the knob for what I'm going to be soldering, on the scale of 1 - 5 it usually ends up around 3-1/2 for normal PC work, maybe 4 if it's a huge thick lead or joining thick wires. Crank it up to 5 and it will remove or reattach large metal shields but I rarely have to do that anymore.
Thought it might be a good choice for a beginner as the question pops up often around here - students on a very tight budget. The holder and sponge are the best features in addition to coming with an iron plated tip.
Shipping costs would of course drive the price up but if you go through their vast website you'll likely find quite a few other bargains that are worth adding to the order.
I've been thinking about trying out their little Lepai T amp, it's rated at 20W/ch but doesn't come with a large enough power supply for that. I have read that some are selling the identical amp with a 24V supply now. Some guys on the audio forums are replacing the cheap pots with better Alpha ones from Mouser for about $1 each pot.
I read through all the reviews on that site and 95% of them were pro, a few complaining that it didn't get as hot as they expected.
Heck no, for $12 it isn't going to have precision temperature control and a 4 digit readout but neither does my Weller. I just know about where to set the knob for what I'm going to be soldering, on the scale of 1 - 5 it usually ends up around 3-1/2 for normal PC work, maybe 4 if it's a huge thick lead or joining thick wires. Crank it up to 5 and it will remove or reattach large metal shields but I rarely have to do that anymore.
Thought it might be a good choice for a beginner as the question pops up often around here - students on a very tight budget. The holder and sponge are the best features in addition to coming with an iron plated tip.
Shipping costs would of course drive the price up but if you go through their vast website you'll likely find quite a few other bargains that are worth adding to the order.
I've been thinking about trying out their little Lepai T amp, it's rated at 20W/ch but doesn't come with a large enough power supply for that. I have read that some are selling the identical amp with a 24V supply now. Some guys on the audio forums are replacing the cheap pots with better Alpha ones from Mouser for about $1 each pot.
