Wireless Game Room Scoreboard

Discussion in 'The Projects Forum' started by Solomon76, Jan 6, 2013.

  1. Solomon76

    Thread Starter New Member

    Jan 6, 2013
    I just finished building a wireless scoreboard for my game room and thought that I would share the completed project here in order to give others ideas in case someone else was interested in doing something similar.

    I spent almost 2 solid months searching the web for a nice wireless scoreboard for my game room that wouldn't clash too much with the decor. Everything that I did find was either larger and/or more guaky than I wanted. I ended up building my own scoreboard and used a couple of 2 Digit Up/Down Counter Kits as the heart of the scoreboard. I'm not as saavy with circuits as I would like to be but I did end up soldering all of the LEDs and components onto each of the circuit boards. I think that it turned out pretty good, but I'm open to any constructive critisism. Please share your thoughts.

  2. elec_mech

    Senior Member

    Nov 12, 2008
    Welcome to AAC Solomon76.

    Nice job, this looks very professional (at least to me).

    If you have the schematics and parts list, I'm sure many members would be interested in seeing them and perhaps making their own in the future.

    My only two cents would be to add a red filter over the LEDs - it didn't appear to have one in the video. This will sharpen your display. I'd suggest using a red transparent plastic, at least 0.010" thick, and placing it over the LEDs. Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Midwest-Cle...796&pid=100011&prg=1005&rk=1&sd=160593725603&. You may find this in a local hobby store.

    I've attached a PDF I have from a previous project showing the difference between a filtered and non-filtered display.
  3. Solomon76

    Thread Starter New Member

    Jan 6, 2013
    Thank you elec_mech. Now that you mention it, I can see how a red filter could improve the display of the scoreboard. I will definitely take a look at it.

    I don't really have a schematic because everything was pretty simple, although the Canakit Up/Down Counter Kit did come with its own schematic. I will list the items that I used if that would help however.

    *The cabinet is a 11x14 shadow box that I got from a local craft store.
    *Inside the cabinet is foam board with alphabet stickers.
    *At the top of the cabinet is a On/Off Rocker Switch.
    *Behind the foam board is (2) 4 "AA" Battery Holders. This is optional as the Counter Kits accept A/C adapters.
    *The display is (2) Canakit CK214 Up/Down Counter Kits.
    *The scoreboard is controlled by a 6 Channel RF Remote Control Kit. The Remote Control Kit didn't come with a schematic, but I found one online: http://images.carymart.com/rf/0020036/004.jpg

    The power of the two Counter Kits and the Remote Control Kit is all soldered together to run off of either 8 "AA" batteries or a 12v A/C adapter.

    That is pretty much all I can think of but I'll happily answer any questions that anyone has.
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2013
  4. ErnieM

    AAC Fanatic!

    Apr 24, 2011
    Very good job. It looks like you bought it, which is meant as a big compliment as in "very professional appearance."

    Kudos for not having a cord! I like that it runs off batteries for a "no wires" look... <nitpick>D cells would last longer, and a plug for rechargeables would lessen the hassle factor. </nitpick>
  5. Solomon76

    Thread Starter New Member

    Jan 6, 2013
    ErnieM, thanks for the compliment and thank you for your input. I would love to use D cells because after 2 days of using the scoreboard the RF Remote Control unit started acting sporadically and I figured out it was because the batteries were beginning to die. I was using some very cheap batteries from the dollar store though. I originally wanted to use batteries so that it would have a cleaner look, but I ended up plugging it into an outlet so now there is a cord coming from the bottom. The problem with using D cell batteries is that the cabinet isn't deep enough and the scoreboard wouldn't sit flush against the wall with D cells. Otherwise I would definitely give D cells a try.