Before I become registered in AAC I searched this website and found a thread which was talking about how we can use another chemistry material to solve the copper ( for making the PBC) instead ferric chloride. I didn't study that article at that time deeply but know I am interested to find it but I can't. Is anyone aware of that thread to guide me ?

Thank you

 

It's probably in this thread somewhere. http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showthread.php?t=47681

 

I'm still amazed people are making PCB's at home still with the low cost PCB's you can get out of China in a few weeks..

You can get 10 pieces 10cm x 10cm double sided with solder mask and silkscreening for $25 USD.
I guess if you need it quick..

 

mcgyvr, does that $25 include shipping?

I ran a batch thru one china house I found on EBay and got 50 boards of that size for $40 + $20 DHL shipping. They were at my door in under 2 weeks.

 

Ammonium persulphate

 

I'm still amazed people are making PCB's at home still with the low cost PCB's you can get out of China in a few weeks..

You can get 10 pieces 10cm x 10cm double sided with solder mask and silkscreening for $25 USD.
I guess if you need it quick..

Do you have a link?

 

I spend under $5, and have it in 4 hours. If it is a one off and if I have a mistake then I get to fix it ASAP. It really is not a mystery.

The question does keep coming up, a link would be nice.

 

Is that a USA only source Bill?

I'd love to be able to pay $5 and get one board back in even a few days.

 

I think he meant to say he DIY his boards.

 

Here is where I get mine from
http://imall.iteadstudio.com/open-pcb/pcb-prototyping.html
Should be here in a few days..
Then I gotta bust out the microscope to hand solder the 0402 resistors/caps,etc.. oh the fun

 

How I make PCBs

Bill's Index

I am thinking of trying to learn how to do it photographically, for two sided boards. Alignment of top and bottom with toner is a major pain.

 

I used to make my own double sided boards. It is doable.

1) Make photographic negatives with emulsion side against the board.
2) Put readable text at least on one side in order to get the top-bottom and orientation correct.
3) Put targets or registration marks (at least two) outside of the board area.
4) Tape the two negatives together along one edge and slide the copper laminate between the two and tape negatives to the laminate.
5) I used a homemade vacuum easel under the UV lamps.
6) Expose one side. Turn over and expose the other side.
7) Develop and etch as usual.

 

How I make PCBs
...

Thanks for the info Bill, it was my fault mistakenly thinking you were talking about a pro-manufactured service.

Many of the things I do now are fine pitch SMD and need pro solder stop-masks and high density tracks, tiny vias etc, so they need to be pro made boards. For testing and prototyping stuff I have systems that work good enough.

It's slightly off topic but I'm still curious if someone has links to a good fast PCB maker with low setup fees (ie good for just a couple of PCBs)?

 

always use the bookmark feature of your browser. Think about those programmers who have spent hours just to give you that little nifty feature.

 

It's slightly off topic but I'm still curious if someone has links to a good fast PCB maker with low setup fees (ie good for just a couple of PCBs)?

Well the itead link I posted will get you boards to your house in 2 weeks for the best prices around..
There is NO ONE in the states that can meet their pricing. And just about every "comparable price" place also ships them to China. I deal with PCB houses daily as part of my job.

Sunstone in the states is probably the best/lowest cost you will find and can have 4 layer boards in 24 hours if you want.. Their prices aren't that bad for quick turn low volume protos but NOTHING will be as cheap as China (w/2 week turns).
I believe we paid something like $100 for 5 boards a while back from sunstone and this was without solder mask/silkscreen. (2" x 5" or so)

 

apcircuits.com (Alberta, Canada) will get you prototype boards in 2-3 days.

 

Thanks for the info guys. I'm in Australia so will check out the Chinese suppliers, mail from there is fairly quick.

 

My basic setup is printing both sides reverse onto magazine paper, lining them up in the light(not too hard after you've done it a few times) clip them together, then glue two sides with gluestick. Slide the board in and then send it though my cheap laminator 5 or 6 times. Then soak it for 2 minutes and scrub the excess paper off with the soft side of a sponge. Works great and it's usually lines up pretty well. I just made my worst lined up board the other day and after drilling I still hit all the pads on the other side, just a bit off to the edge.

Lots of people hate the toner transfer method but I can't really imagine it being easier to deal with coating and developing. It took my a while to get the toner down right, I think it was worth it.

 

If I can get my hands on a couple of smooth plates I want to try a technique where I sandwich the two toners (joined as you described) on the PCB, then bake in the oven for 350°F (or whatever) for x minutes. Obviously the recipe needs work, but it could solve the alignment issues. I would drill and tap the edges of the plates for easy assembly, with a couple of C-clamps in the middle

Toner has worked very well for me, I have not run into a minimum pitch yet.

 

... Toner has worked very well for me, I have not run into a minimum pitch yet.

What about the thermal expansion issues with thin traces on larger PCBs? I've had trouble with that, causing smearing of the traces, because the heat used to fuse the toner to PCB makes PCB and paper/film expand different amounts and that amount might be more than a few thou over the width of a PCB.