Trap ?

Thread Starter

Mathematics!

Joined Jul 21, 2008
1,036
The nut/ring broke at the big pictures circle the only way to put another one on is to unsolder the first circle. ( Don't currently have the means to do this and don't want to either) Due to oldness and corrosion it broke apart in my hand just by touching it

I have another P trap sliver coated/brass just like the one in the pic. Same size 1 1/2inch. The only problem is put a new nut/washer on the circle part since you cann't fit it from below and the other end is soldered on not able to take of to get on the fiting.


www.tiikoni.com/tis/view/?id=fce081b

This there any nut or fitting I can get to fix this issue or am I stuck with soldering or calling for help.
Either way this is a simple fix but one needs the right tools and I don't want to bring soldering equipment
 

GopherT

Joined Nov 23, 2012
8,009
There isn't pressure there. A PVC glue-on solution exists. Take this picture to a small hardware store where plumbing supplies are sold - especially one where old men work (not teenagers with no idea what a whatchamacallit is).
 

Thread Starter

Mathematics!

Joined Jul 21, 2008
1,036
Ok will try and ask at a plumbing supply store about this.
Is there any solution that comes to your mind other then jb welded or unsoldering/soldering a new first leg assembly of the P trap... ( seem ridiculous work just to get a top nut/washer on it they should have thought about maintance and repair issues that could crop up over time like this one)

I will check again with lowes and homedepot to see if there is something I can do ... an easy fits which doesn't require unsoldering.

They do sell just the trap or the trap P assembly though I would imagine I would be stuck either way. But I will look into it more closely. This should be an easy fix but in the mean time a bucket will have to do.
 

Brownout

Joined Jan 10, 2012
2,390
Looks like a nut should just slip on from the bottom. Otherwise, you can unscrew the tail-pipe from the basin piece, at the top of the pipe. If that doesn't work, get a new basin drain/tail pipe. Costs about 12 bucks altogether. You'll need plumbers puddy when you install the new drain basin. There are directions on the side of the container. I'll walk you through how to use it if you get that far.
 

Thread Starter

Mathematics!

Joined Jul 21, 2008
1,036
From what I see the tail piece is soldered on not plumbers putty so I don't have the means to get it off. And the nut must go on the back soldered on tail pieces before the tail piece is connected to the wall.

So I am screwed with out the tools to pull/unsolder it I am looking from another method don't really want to cut into it either.

I am pretty sure it is soldered on it doesn't look like plumbers putty to me.

O how I wish it was PVC with plumbers putty
 
Last edited:

#12

Joined Nov 30, 2010
18,224
There are rubber booties to do this.
I'm the kind of person that just buys new parts and whips out the right tool, but I have everything that burns gas, from a BIC lighter to an ox-acetylene torch.
 

Thread Starter

Mathematics!

Joined Jul 21, 2008
1,036
Another question that I was curious about was where does the water/sewer supply companies , and utility companies
Get there tools and supplies/building materials from.

I am curious for the infrastructure of these systems not at the building or house end points where one can get these supplies at local stores like home depot or local plumbing/electrical/hvac,...etc supply stores.

I am wondering for example where one gets the bucket transformers , or line voltage regulators you see on telephone poles, or huge fire hid-rents , big wheel valves , ....etc , pump stations , and the tools to put the infrastructure together.

As well as who makes comcasts modems , head end systems , CMTS ,...etc I would imagine they go to network supply company like cisco and just private label

I was told by somebody it was from special distributors but they never could tell me the names or web sites to order these supplies at. They are different then the local supply stores so ? If anybody works for the the DPW ,utilties company maybe they could elaborate or knows the answer
 
Last edited:

bance

Joined Aug 11, 2012
315
There are rubber booties to do this.
I'm the kind of person that just buys new parts and whips out the right tool, but I have everything that burns gas, from a BIC lighter to an ox-acetylene torch.
So you're a fetishist and a pyromaniac?:D
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,683
There are rubber booties to do this.
.
I had the fortune to be taught by an old plumber to wipe a joint, not that I have much use for it now! But you never know when it will come in handy.;)
These guy's were artists, you would think it had been turned on a lathe.
I did use it on lead covered cables at one time at the service entry point.
The term Plumber is a bit obsolete now, there is not a lot of lead (Plomb: Fr) involved.
Max.
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,683
.
Is there any solution that comes to your mind other then jb welded or unsoldering/soldering a new first leg assembly of the P trap....
First you need to obtain a wiping cloth, preferably Mole skin, A stick of Plumbers lead, and a Lb of Tallow, fire up your blow lamp/torch and proceed to wipe the joint.
Test for leaks.:D
Take the shopping list to H.D. and see what they say.;)
Max.
 

ErnieM

Joined Apr 24, 2011
8,377
My co-op just has a piece of pipe comming out of the wall under the bathroom sink.

My P-trap is just a plastic assembly, the end has a pressure ring that grabs the pipe.

While I got it at a home products store (the orange one) they all seem to leak at the joints to the elements (not to the pipe!), so get some glop to go around the joints. When asking for some be insistant, the young guys will tell you it isn't needed, but sometimes it is.
 
Top