As a decimal point is small & sometimes lost, some conventions use the multiplier as the decimal point so 7k5 is 7.5k.

 

As a decimal point is small & sometimes lost, some conventions use the multiplier as the decimal point so 7k5 is 7.5k.

Got It. I'm gonna redraw the schematic and have you look at it for corrections.

Thanks so much!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I've been thinking of going whole hog on that schematic, drawing my own version along with a PCB.

 

Here are my thoughts for a flowing stream: I used the 4015 shift register, SR, because I had one, but would prefer the 74C164. for the greater output of 8 mA stretchable to maybe 12 mA. The flickering signal source is a candle LED which is connected to the data input of first SR. The signal is PWM with the pattern repeating about every 300 clock pulses. Interesting effects are noted as SR clock is varied. I would eliminate sync pulses from U3, C2 & R3-4 as not needed. I envision 4 SR's with 3 blue LED's in series for 96 LED's or 5 SR's for 120.
If I were building this , the SRs would be distributed along the stream, connected dead bug style with semi wire wrap.
On breadboard, red LEDs were only ones that were available ( 8 ) & are quite visible with only 1 mA.

 

On board layouts I sometimes use copper tape for long & short runs. Some from stained glass store now maybe TapesMaster.com.
On using dead bug wiring, be sure to keep a chart of part no.s and orientations, as when glued top down all information is lost.

 

I've been thinking of going whole hog on that schematic, drawing my own version along with a PCB.

Hi Wendy, can't wait to see it!

 

Here are my thoughts for a flowing stream: I used the 4015 shift register, SR, because I had one, but would prefer the 74C164. for the greater output of 8 mA stretchable to maybe 12 mA. The flickering signal source is a candle LED which is connected to the data input of first SR. The signal is PWM with the pattern repeating about every 300 clock pulses. Interesting effects are noted as SR clock is varied. I would eliminate sync pulses from U3, C2 & R3-4 as not needed. I envision 4 SR's with 3 blue LED's in series for 96 LED's or 5 SR's for 120.
If I were building this , the SRs would be distributed along the stream, connected dead bug style with semi wire wrap.
On breadboard, red LEDs were only ones that were available ( 8 )View attachment 99047 & are quite visible with only 1 mA.

I just ordered a couple of breadboards and waiting for them to arrive. I will look and see if I have any 4015's. I think I have 4011's but not sure yet.

Here are my thoughts for a flowing stream: I used the 4015 shift register, SR, because I had one, but would prefer the 74C164. for the greater output of 8 mA stretchable to maybe 12 mA. The flickering signal source is a candle LED which is connected to the data input of first SR. The signal is PWM with the pattern repeating about every 300 clock pulses. Interesting effects are noted as SR clock is varied. I would eliminate sync pulses from U3, C2 & R3-4 as not needed. I envision 4 SR's with 3 blue LED's in series for 96 LED's or 5 SR's for 120.
If I were building this , the SRs would be distributed along the stream, connected dead bug style with semi wire wrap.
On breadboard, red LEDs were only ones that were available ( 8 )View attachment 99047 & are quite visible with only 1 mA.

 

On board layouts I sometimes use copper tape for long & short runs. Some from stained glass store now maybe TapeMaster.com.
On using dead bug wiring, be sure to keep a chart of part no.s and orientations, as when glued top down all information is lost.

How does this look based on your original schematic?

 

Don't see a power supply voltage. What are you planning on using? I suspect 7.5Kohms is too large. I'm in the middle of drawing mine.

I did not do a careful analysis, but at first glance yours looks good.

 

Don't see a power supply voltage. What are you planning on using? I suspect 7.5Kohms is too large. I'm in the middle of drawing mine.

I did not do a careful analysis, but at first glance yours looks good.

ok cool.. 12v is my supply voltage. Hey do you use Eagle Cad?

 

Don't see a power supply voltage. What are you planning on using? I suspect 7.5Kohms is too large. I'm in the middle of drawing mine.

I did not do a careful analysis, but at first glance yours looks good.

What size resistor do you think? That's what was originally posted by Bernard

 

Here is what I have come up with so far...



The NPN are 2N2222A or similar, the MOSFETs are 2N7000. I have never build Bernard's circuit, but if you use 12VDC then the current through the transistor will be around 14ma max. This is probably good enough for your application.

I designed for 10ma using the current limiter on U4, but it can be bumped up a lot by changing R3. I haven't built this one either, but I probably will get around to it.

The max count for the light chaser can be set using the diode AND gate made by CR1 and CR2. If you do not use this AND gate ground the inputs, else it will not work.

I use PCB Express, and make my own boards.

.How I make PCBs

 

Here is what I have come up with so far...

View attachment 99096

The NPN are 2N2222A or similar, the MOSFETs are 2N7000. I have never build Bernard's circuit, but if you use 12VDC then the current through the transistor will be around 14ma max. This is probably good enough for your application.

I designed for 10ma using the current limiter on U4, but it can be bumped up a lot by changing R3. I haven't built this one either, but I probably will get around to it.



The max count for the light chaser can be set using the diode AND gate made by CR1 and CR2. If you do not use this AND gate ground the inputs, else it will not work.

I use PCB Express, and make my own boards.

.How I make PCBs

Hi Wendy, I am going to build your board soon. Thanks for the info. Your etching method looks great! I was planning on doing the cloths iron method and it really sucks. I have had all the issues you mentioned and have never been happy. The funny thing is I have 2 laminators but never thought about the wax paper. I am going to try your method. Thanks for your help and talk to ya soon.

Steve

 

Here is what I have come up with so far...

View attachment 99096

The NPN are 2N2222A or similar, the MOSFETs are 2N7000. I have never build Bernard's circuit, but if you use 12VDC then the current through the transistor will be around 14ma max. This is probably good enough for your application.

I designed for 10ma using the current limiter on U4, but it can be bumped up a lot by changing R3. I haven't built this one either, but I probably will get around to it.

The max count for the light chaser can be set using the diode AND gate made by CR1 and CR2. If you do not use this AND gate ground the inputs, else it will not work.

I use PCB Express, and make my own boards.

.How I make PCBs

 

Hi Wendy, what about 300 led's fade in and out? Is that simpler with a 555 timer? I would like to use 2 chasers and 1 fade in & out

 

I just updated my schematic yet again. Was thinking about while trying to go to sleep.

Figure 12.2D would probably be your best bet, though I think I can do a bit better. Had some thought how I would drive the MOSFET for fading. I'll get back to you.

You mentioned 2 chasers. How many LEDs per?

 

Re Long Chaser 7k5 is a little large, 3k9 would be about right.
Stream, the more I see the LED's dance the more that I like it. Use 74C164 for direct drive of blue LED's with R6-14 = 180 ohms; the
4015 output listed as 8/10 mA.

 

It is funny, I bought all the parts and did a lot of the cutting work, but never finished this project, which definitely applies.

It is a test display for a PIC or similar. This is similar enough.

 

It is funny, I bought all the parts and did a lot of the cutting work, but never finished this project, which definitely applies.

It is a test display for a PIC or similar. This is similar enough.

Hi Wendy, for some reason your images are really small that I cannot read. Is there another way to view your images?

Thanks,
Steve

 

Re Long Chaser 7k5 is a little large, 3k9 would be about right.
Stream, the more I see the LED's dance the more that I like it. Use 74C164 for direct drive of blue LED's with R6-14 = 180 ohms; the
4015 output listed as 8/10 mA.

Thanks Benard, I have already started your schematic and also making Wendy's. I like to see the LED's dance as well. What I was thinking is for the whole territory being displaed, I was thinking of doing fade in & out for 300 + LED's and for the 2 areas assigned for other information, I would use dancing LED's for those areas. Should be a good contrast I hope