Tda 2050 Emergency Help

Discussion in 'General Electronics Chat' started by mu71b, Feb 27, 2014.

  1. mu71b

    Thread Starter Member

    Feb 26, 2014
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    1
    Hi My Name is Mujib , currently known as mu71b on here, I have made a tda 2050 amplifier, and then mounted it on a scrap piece of plastic, and jumped all of the wires at the bottom, but for some reason when I plug it in/power it on only makes a crackle, slight zzzzzz sound to show the power is coming into the speaker but, for some strange reason once I plug the 3.5mm jack into my mp4 or computer and play music it seems no music comes out of the speakers, could someone please help me solve this problem as i require this amplifier urgently for my Resistant Materials GCSE, this is my first post so please excuse my inexperience of any kind, kind regards, mu71b

    quicklinks:

    http://www.st.com/st-web-ui/static/active/en/resource/technical/document/datasheet/CD00000131.pdf

    i chose split supply, and fed it 12v
     
  2. bountyhunter

    Well-Known Member

    Sep 7, 2009
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    I developed the TDA2030 at fairchild in 1979. That was the predecessor of the 2050, very similar part. A high power audio amp will likley not work correctly hand wired together as shown. It needs to be on a proper PC board with proper ground planes. The picture you posted shows a PCB outline and that is what you need to build.
     
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  3. THE_RB

    AAC Fanatic!

    Feb 11, 2008
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  4. mu71b

    Thread Starter Member

    Feb 26, 2014
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    but i do not have the time to wait for it to arrive, the shipping takes forever ,know what i mean?? but can you tell me what's wrong with the circuit by any chance.

    besides that item does not get shipped to the united kindom anyway, but thanks for the reply, mate.
     
  5. mu71b

    Thread Starter Member

    Feb 26, 2014
    43
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    therefore my circuit does not have any faults apart from not on a original pcb
     
  6. R!f@@

    AAC Fanatic!

    Apr 2, 2009
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    Wiring like tht won't work.

    Is the TDA chip getting hot?
     
  7. R!f@@

    AAC Fanatic!

    Apr 2, 2009
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    Did you really designed the chip ?
     
  8. t06afre

    AAC Fanatic!

    May 11, 2009
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    Hi Mujib!
    I see some problems here. The first is that you seams to have no heat sink for your TDA2050. Not that this is the problem just now. But it will indeed create problems later on. I also think you way of making a prototype board and maybe a bad solder joint may have caused your problem. A better way may be to get a pice of wood. Then draw up your circuit in this and nail in small brass nails. And solder the components/wires on to them. The nails used have to be clean and not oxidized. It could also be an idea clean the nails with technical alcohol before solder anything to them. Pay attention to the solder joints. Avoid loose ends and wires sticking out from the soldering points. I see you have a lot that in your current board. Cut redundant wire ends before soldering always. A nice and tidy board is very often a good one. And of course good luck with your project
     
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  9. Little Ghostman

    Member

    Jan 1, 2014
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    Try and get hold of solder with Lead in, that lead free stuff you have used wont help much, also your iron is too cold by the looks of it (I know because when I started ALL my joints looked like that).
    You could also try the DEAD BUG method (google it), that would be easier for you to solder. But I would say main problem is your lead free solder and cold soldering iron
     
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  10. Little Ghostman

    Member

    Jan 1, 2014
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    ALSO it looks like the wires may be shorted and C5 looks like its come away and isnt connected
     
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  11. SgtWookie

    Expert

    Jul 17, 2007
    22,182
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    We can't really tell, because wires are crossing over each other.

    However, since you are not using a printed circuit board, your conductors have a significant amount of inductance, which drastically changes the electrical characteristics of the circuit; it won't work properly if at all.

    Also, by using a cold soldering iron and lead-free solder, you have likely damaged the amplifier IC by keeping heat on the terminals too long in an attempt to solder wires to it. You're allowed 3 seconds of heat application to make a good joint; any longer and you fry the semiconductor. You then need to let the IC cool down before soldering the next terminal.

    1) Get a higher-wattage soldering iron.

    2) 63/37 solder is best for electronic hobbyists; you will likely have a hard time finding it nowadays unless you order it online.

    3) Cleanliness when soldering is an absolute must. Isopropyl alcohol (90% or better) applied with a nylon brush will help a great deal in making bright, shiny solder joints. Even a little finger oil on parts will make for a poor solder joint.

    4) Practice, practice, practice soldering. Nobody was born knowing how to solder; it takes practice.

    5) Make a proper PCB to mount the parts on. It not only provides a ground plane, but also cooling for the components.

    6) You will need a LARGE heat sink for the amplifier, or a fan-cooled heat sink. If you don't provide a heat sink, the amplifier will burn up in very short order (seconds).
     
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  12. alfacliff

    Well-Known Member

    Dec 13, 2013
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    many chips have a very high frequency response, like the popular 7800 series voltage regulators, and WILL oscilate at radio frequenciesor ultrasonic frequencies. that is the reason for the rather large ground planes on printed circuit boards and circuit layout. proper bypassing helps, but having a low impedance ground plane really works.
     
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  13. mu71b

    Thread Starter Member

    Feb 26, 2014
    43
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    what do you mean by that mate???
     
  14. Gdrumm

    Distinguished Member

    Aug 29, 2008
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    I think he was addressing Bountyhunters reply.

    Can you explain the nature of the Emergency?

    It looks like you need to slow down and plan the work better.

    The input from these guys is on a professinal level, and doesn't get any better.

    HTH,
     
  15. mu71b

    Thread Starter Member

    Feb 26, 2014
    43
    1
    i never did anything wrong, so could you please explain why you are trying to talk to me in that matter, the emergency is i have got to get it working by monday, for my r.m. gcse practical
     
  16. mu71b

    Thread Starter Member

    Feb 26, 2014
    43
    1
    thanks mate t06afre
     
  17. mu71b

    Thread Starter Member

    Feb 26, 2014
    43
    1
    yes it is, thanks for your reply :)
     
  18. bountyhunter

    Well-Known Member

    Sep 7, 2009
    2,498
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    What's wrong is that point to point wiring has too much impedance between the various circuit nodes. To see what I mean, take the schematic and draw resistors in between all the circuit points.
     
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  19. bountyhunter

    Well-Known Member

    Sep 7, 2009
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    I can't trace it visually so I don't know if the circuit is correct or if the components are the correct ones.
     
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  20. bountyhunter

    Well-Known Member

    Sep 7, 2009
    2,498
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    I did the one that fairchild produced but we ripped off the device from SGS Thompson so I can not claim the original design.
     
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