Subwoofer Repair SKW-HT240

Thread Starter

Reeves360

Joined Apr 6, 2010
11
My Onkyo sub died on me and I was hoping for some helpful tips to diagnose the problem.

Here's what happened, my sub was working great BOOM BOOM while I play Battlefield Bad Company 2. Then all the sudden no more bass. Maybe the speaker popped during a loud explosion but I didn't notice.

The sub currently can detect when there is a signal going to it from my amp and switches between red and green lights like it should. There is no sound coming from the amp at all. The speaker doesn't pop or click when you touch the input.

So I took the back plate off and tried to check around. Nothing on either of the boards I found inside look burnt. The circuits and caps look fine when I gave them a quick inspection. I checked 2 or 3 fuses that I could find for resistance and didn't see any issues.

I also checked the - and + of the RCA input on the back of the sub by finding the 4 pin connector on the little circuit board that's attached to the RCA port and back plate (sorry I don't know what this piece is called, please enlighten me). Everything appeared to be fine on this piece as well.

I do not smell anything thing remotely close to a burnt smell coming from the sub.

Any help on what I should be looking for or what I can test next would be great.

Sorry if I have missed any posts on how to do this, I used the search function but didn't turn up any promising leads. I'll keep searching while I wait for an answer here.

Thank you all in advance!
 

retched

Joined Dec 5, 2009
5,207
GASP !!! The Kid or the Speaker?
The kid, dummy. You should see the line at the doctors office for kids with their voice coils hanging out of their necks.....eww..


@Reeves360
Ok. The next step for you would be to disconnect the SPEAKER itself from the amp board. You can try a continuity test on the speaker connectors. If you have none, time for a new speaker.

You can also take the speaker out and try it with a similarly rated output source. Maybe a book box or a home audio system. Hook the speaker up to the speaker out on another amp and see if the speaker still works.. Im guessing no.

You may have bought one of those 600WA systems that are 6 watts. The hair thin voice coils are good for about...well nothing really.
 

awright

Joined Jul 5, 2006
91
If you have an ohmeter measure the resistance across the voice coil. Should be down around a few ohms.

You can also perform a quick continuity check with an AAA, AA, C, OR D cell across the voice coil. You should hear a click or a scratching sound as you make contact with the battery. You cannot damage the voice coil with a 1.5 volt cell.
 

Thread Starter

Reeves360

Joined Apr 6, 2010
11
Boom Boom went BAAAANG! :D

So let's get banging.
Do you know how to solder, test resistance and measure AC DC Voltage?
I do know how to solder but not very well and I'm willing to try. I also have some friends that are pretty good with a solder gun but aren't speaker experts they're car guys. :)

I'm also very willing to try my best and am not afraid to break anything seeing as I have nothing to loose. :D

I just went out and bought a new multimeter last weekend because it wasn't testing Ω resistance at all but volts and amp worked fine :eek:

So I think I'm good to go if you guys tell me what the best place to start testing and looking for problems.

I can also take pictures of the stuff in side the sub box if that helps out at all.

Thank you all so much for getting back to me.
 

Thread Starter

Reeves360

Joined Apr 6, 2010
11
The kid, dummy. You should see the line at the doctors office for kids with their voice coils hanging out of their necks.....eww..

@Reeves360
Ok. The next step for you would be to disconnect the SPEAKER itself from the amp board. You can try a continuity test on the speaker connectors. If you have none, time for a new speaker.

You can also take the speaker out and try it with a similarly rated output source. Maybe a book box or a home audio system. Hook the speaker up to the speaker out on another amp and see if the speaker still works.. Im guessing no.

You may have bought one of those 600WA systems that are 6 watts. The hair thin voice coils are good for about...well nothing really.
If you have an ohmeter measure the resistance across the voice coil. Should be down around a few ohms.

You can also perform a quick continuity check with an AAA, AA, C, OR D cell across the voice coil. You should hear a click or a scratching sound as you make contact with the battery. You cannot damage the voice coil with a 1.5 volt cell.
Thanks for the help retched and awright!

I’ll test the speaker directly with the speaker connectors. I should be able to do that tonight or tomorrow at the latest, seeing as I work 4 x 10’s M – Thurs I should have time this weekend.

I will also try to take some various pictures of the sub and post those up just incase it might help.

For some additional information I have a Onkyo TX-SR805 amp powering Onkyo SKS-HT240 speakers.

Feel free to click on those links for the model I have to go to the manufactures web site for additional information and specs.

Once again thank you all for the help!
 

Thread Starter

Reeves360

Joined Apr 6, 2010
11
Speaker Resistance 4.5 Ohm which I'm assuming is within spec for a 4 Ohm speaker?

I tested some 5.25” Rockford Fosgate car speakers and received a reading of 3.5 Ohm. These car speakers are also 4 Ohm speakers.

What should I test next and what does this new information tell us?

Thank you all for the help.

I haven’t got around to taking pictures yet but I will soon.
 

Audioguru

Joined Dec 20, 2007
11,248
A 4 ohm speaker is 3 ohms DC and shows 3.5 ohms on a multimeter because the leads are about half an ohm.
My car has some 2 ohm speakers.
 

Thread Starter

Reeves360

Joined Apr 6, 2010
11
Before throwing out your old meter see if it needs a fresh battery.
I'll check the batteries on the old multimeter before I throw it out, thanks for the tip.

Any other suggestions on what I can test to see if I can get this thing working?
 

Markd77

Joined Sep 7, 2009
2,806
I'm not sure I've ever seen a board with the components marked front and rear. That is an awsome idea, hope it catches on.

Check the fuse on your old multimeter too. You might have to open it up. They blow quite easily.
 

SgtWookie

Joined Jul 17, 2007
22,230
I'm not sure I've ever seen a board with the components marked front and rear.
They mark them if they are mounted on both sides of the board.
That is an awsome idea, hope it catches on.
It's not a new idea.

Check the fuse on your old multimeter too. You might have to open it up. They blow quite easily.
Fuses in multimeters open up quite easily if you try to measure current without knowing what current you are measuring.
 
Top