Read the ful story here:

http://aranna.altervista.org/dragonsnest/digital-camera-ruined/

In short, I actually washed my digital camera, after drying, it still powered up but failed to start up completely (powering off again).

After another week, a crack developed on the TFT.

The SD slot was end of life, and it always had difficulties with macro shots.
The camera I use now takes much better macros- so using high resolution even makes sense in the first place.

The picture in the attach was made with a SONY camera. You can really see the rasterization from the offset printing machine.

 

Read the ful story here:

http://aranna.altervista.org/dragonsnest/digital-camera-ruined/

In short, I actually washed my digital camera, after drying, it still powered up but failed to start up completely (powering off again).

After another week, a crack developed on the TFT.

The SD slot was end of life, and it always had difficulties with macro shots.
The camera I use now takes much better macros- so using high resolution even makes sense in the first place.

The picture in the attach was made with a SONY camera. You can really see the rasterization from the offset printing machine.

I use an old 3Mp Sony camera, which has a macro setting. It does a great job, probably due to the Carl Zeiss lens.

 

My Olympus VG120 also had macro setting, but taking photos from less than 40cm causes great difficulty.

It is nearly impossible without flash, with flash it takes 5 or 6 attempts to produce one good photo. The max. resolution 14MPX is not much useable freehand.

The SONY camera has 10MPX- I always leave it at max. resolution. Almost all photos are sharp, even from less than 30cm without flash.

The Olympus VG120 is not a bad camera but for my purposes, it has it's limits and the SONY one suits me much better.

 

The minimum focal distance on my old Sony is about 10cm in macro mode. Here is a closeup taken at that distance with ambient lighting.

 

If you want super-macro, down to ~1cm, just hold/attach an auxiliary lens in front of the camera lens. One problem, though, is vignetting and another is getting light on to the subject.

 

If you want super-macro, down to ~1cm, just hold/attach an auxiliary lens in front of the camera lens. One problem, though, is vignetting and another is getting light on to the subject.

I have done this a few times some years ago, when digital cameras weren't as much advanced as they are now.

But I found it to be too messy.

The SONY camera is a good improvement in terms of sharpess.

At first I was upset about the loss, but the camera was near end of life anyway. Imagine if you travel the Tokyo subway with the map in the camera, and suddenly the motor zoom has a bug, and the camera can not start up anymore.

-You could try to get a paper map at a station, should not be too hard in the daytime

-You could try to catch a train to a station you already know

-You could go to an internet cafe and print from the SD card

-You could travel backwards to the station where you came from

The SONY card reader even if it costed 22 Euro also is bad it is required to push the memory stick downwards in order to read from it.

That's how it is in western shops, not only expensive as much as 10x Hong Kong price, also the stuff breaks down easily or does not even work correctly in the first place.

 

one of my SONY handicams has a real good lens, I zoomed in on jupter and you could see the moons circling. the same camera could stop rotation of a cutter in a milling machine at 10,000 rpm. a good lens makes the camera good.

 

If you want super-macro, down to ~1cm, just hold/attach an auxiliary lens in front of the camera lens. One problem, though, is vignetting and another is getting light on to the subject.

I had good results with a cheaper magnifying lamp.