I've used pliers in the past, but it just wasn't doing it on this last amp, so I held the fragile base portion and used a srewdriver, persuasion and leverage against the speaker magnet and it worked off slowly. They were just soooo..tight, but thanks. I wanted to be sure there was no crimp, or solder, etc...didn't want to ruin it..........If you mean typical faston type connectors, then you can help them with pliers and make them a bit more open.
The safest way is to use TWO sturdy needle nose pliiers....one to pull on the "plug" and the other to relieve the tension on the phenolic insulator. Sometimes, you can also wedge a screwdriver against the end of the plug and twist it, like opening a paint can with a coin. I don't recommend prying the plug edges apart to make the connections easier to slip on and off....these are high current connections..and you want them TIGHT...even if it's a real pain in the posterior.I have a few Fender and Marshall guitar amps that I just can't get the factory push on type connectors off at the speakers' fragile mounting board that connects wiring to the voice coil. Is there a trick so that I don't force and break something.
Thanks Eric, that pretty much confirms my approaches and it did work. Now I can take apart my Fender Princeton Chorus and try to find out why the treble control doesn't work at all(pot, cap, resistor....?)The safest way is to use TWO sturdy needle nose pliiers....one to pull on the "plug" and the other to relieve the tension on the phenolic insulator. Sometimes, you can also wedge a screwdriver against the end of the plug and twist it, like opening a paint can with a coin. I don't recommend prying the plug edges apart to make the connections easier to slip on and off....these are high current connections..and you want them TIGHT...even if it's a real pain in the posterior.
eric
by Aaron Carman
by Aaron Carman
by Duane Benson
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