You guys have lots of GREAT EDUCATIONAL articles on here.

I would like to see a TUTORIAL of how to take a schematic and turn it into a live working model.

more from a pracical application point.

 

Have you ever used a protoboard? They are a great intermediate step, as well as being 100% reusable. If you take the time to fold the wires and rest of the components flat they are also a good analog to a PCB.

When I was starting in the 70's I would take the schematic (usually hand drawn), draw the parts upside down (since that is how a board is laid out), and hand draw the PCB. When I was done I used a sharpie and made the board for real.

There really isn't any good way to do this except practice. There is software such as Eagle express, but it has a steep learning curve of its own. I recomment the protoboard myself.

 

Oh yeah sure have and do have Bread boards.

Hmm yeah folding the components flat, Ill have to try that.

How would you apply that to IC pin connections? Or am i getting to advanced for my time in it.


Schematics arn't laid out how you would hook them up. (of course) Heck, they move the IC pins around in a SCH. to make the drawings easier.

 

When I was starting in the 70's I would take the schematic (usually hand drawn), draw the parts upside down (since that is how a board is laid out), and hand draw the PCB.

So which way is correct reading on a PCB? The soldering side or the componet side up?

 

Think about it. If you're hand drawing it there is only one way, soldering side. Actually, if you're designing that applies too.

 

They ought to print the "R1" "C2" etc. values info on the solder side so you could just poke the components through the bottom and zip right through it in stead of flipping the board over a "pico" amount of times!

 

Here is a tip,

When you finish soldering a component, use a high liter, and mark off each component and tracks associated with it on your schematic.

It will help keep you on track of what was done and what still remains to be done, on your pcb.

Also put a few components in the board and bend over there leads and then flip the board over to solder.

 

I try to multi-learn.......... ALL RIGHT NOW!!! (no learning curves alowed)

 

They ought to print the "R1" "C2" etc. values info on the solder side so you could just poke the components through the bottom and zip right through it in stead of flipping the board over a "pico" amount of times!

I assume you are talking only about through-hole construction with leaded components. If the labels were printed on the solder side, but not the component side, wouldn't you have to turn the board over even more often to find out where to insert each part? Why do you want to know what the component is as you solder it?

In what context do you mean pico? As a prefix to a unit it means 10E-12. Did you mean trillion, which is 10E12?

John

 

John

I hope I am not taking you to literal when I say: Don't take me so literal!!

I was just making a bit of banter for a chuckle.

Remember I just started!


Yes, leaded components-- I have noticed that you have to look at one side to put the component in its proper place AND polarity then flip to solder. Now if you start to doubt your self, like I do, then I gotta flip back "just to make sure"

So I wasn't serious with the "pico" amount of times comment. But, if the same markings were on BOTH sides......... (im not complaining) but the first time I really looked at a surface mount board (just the other day ) with different "eyes" I thought... WOW, that is the way-to-go!

It would save a quattuordecillion amount of time (yep 45 zero's!)

I'm starting to get you John.... (novemdecillion = 1E60 smiles at ya!)


Wouldn't trillion be 1E12 and 10 trillion be 10E12?

I do understand as a prefix (-12) it would be a smaller value sorry for the confusion.

 

Full marks for enthusiasm.

 

Thank you!

All this started (me n electronics) trying to fix a darn 10 dollar meter that I discovered was broken due to battery acid. The rest is history in the making.

I think I discovered a bad diode so I am not gonna high-jack my own thread.

Im going to post the help I need over here: ( http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showthread.php?p=171755#post171755 )