Sony rear projection TV 61 inch kp-61hs10 crt sparking

Discussion in 'General Electronics Chat' started by aouate3, Apr 19, 2011.

  1. aouate3

    Thread Starter Member

    Apr 17, 2011
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    i own a 61 inch rear projection sony tv, the model number is kp-61hs10, this tv was made in march 2000, it has worked great for years, with only a convergence problem which i fixed back in mid 2009, the crt tubes have never been replaced, they are running perfect..


    First off, this tv doesnt have a fan, i have heard that most sony rear projection tvs have a fan to cool the tubes, whether its true or not i dont know.

    But the problem i am having, is that yesterday, i was watching tv when i heard a loud pop, which sounded like a spark, and the screen distorting, it happened 3 times before i got over to it to unplug it.

    After removing the back panel, and the front panel, i couldnt find any obvious problems, and no burn marks, SO i plugged the tv in, and powered it up, and sure enough it starting sparking agian, on the blue CRT tube, it at first looked to be coming from the deflection coil, so i pulled out the crt tube, removed the deflection coil, unsoldered the circuit board from the coil, dissassembled the coil and inspected it, no broken enamled wire, no wire missing enamel, no burn marks or anything..


    So i reassembled the tube and reinstalled it into the tv, while installing it i noticed that the anode cap on the tube wasnt fully glued to the tube, but i could see that the anode was properly connected, so i left it alone..

    after installing the crt tube, reconnecting all the cables, i turned on the tv, then went into the service menu, wrote down the current alignment settings, and then adjusted the alignment settings to fix the convergence, perfect picture, no popping, at first...

    then about ten minutes of watching tv, it poped again, i still had the front panel off the tv, and i saw it sparking from above the deflection coil, near the anode cap..

    so i decided to try and use some electrical tape and tape down the anode cap..


    i turned the tv back on, it is on right now, it only popped once, about 6 minutes ago..

    when it was first popping i put my ear to the tv and i could hear a buzzing getting louder before the pop, like a static electricity build up before the charge jumps to a ground, so i inspected the metal bars the tubes mount on, there was a black mark, but not a burn like i would expect from the discharge of a flyback..

    but the pop did sound like the pop from dischargeing the flyback on a single tube crt tv (like a 8 inch or 12 inch crt)


    I went into the error menu list, and here is the readout

    2: +B OCP 0
    3: +B OVP 0
    4: V STOP 0
    5: AKB 3
    6: H STOP 0
    7: HV 0
    8 AUDIO 0
    9: WDT 0


    SO AKB is a error code, with three ocerences, what AKB means, i have no clue :confused:

    So even though it hasnt poped yet, but it did pop after i first put the electrical tape on it, what should i do, and what is the cause?
     
  2. R!f@@

    AAC Fanatic!

    Apr 2, 2009
    8,754
    760
    It's a normal problem in CRT's.

    The best remedy is to replace the Flyback with the tripler.
    Doing this you will have new cables and HV Anode caps.

    The cheapest way is to clean all the static residue that is built up over the years. The black coating that builds up around the CRT anode and the flyback.
    Clean them using a mild solvent. Any alcoholic solvent will do, as long as it does not harm plastic or rubber.
    I mostly use thinner,as this is what I get.

    Then you have to change the anode. You can get it from damaged fly backs.
    I dunno where to buy them. I always salvage anode caps from flybacks just for this problem.
    Before putting in the new cap u should use HV insulator grease. I dunno the exact name, what I have is something I bought from India long time ago. These type of silicon grease is available. try Google.

    Once the black static is cleaned and the HV anode caps replaced, you should be fine for a year or so....By this time you should think about buying the replacement parts.
    That is the flyback & the Tripler
     
  3. aouate3

    Thread Starter Member

    Apr 17, 2011
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    could i just replace the anode cable on it? because the flyback and triplier seem to be working fine, because the other 2 tubes are perfect, its only the blue tube that is sparking
     
  4. R!f@@

    AAC Fanatic!

    Apr 2, 2009
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    Yes u can....the sparking is a sign of wear.
    If you clean it regularly that is the static residue built up , you will prolong it's life.

    Try replacing the sparking cap and HV cable. remember to find the silicon used to seal the cap
     
  5. aouate3

    Thread Starter Member

    Apr 17, 2011
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    I have a old 14 inch crt tv that is pretty much dead, could i use the HV cable and anode, and anode cap from it, it has a different style connector then the one on the sony kp-61hs10, but the hole where the connector goes into looks the same, would it work?


    also, i have heard that RTV sealant will work, is that true?
     
  6. R!f@@

    AAC Fanatic!

    Apr 2, 2009
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    Yes, u can use almost any HV anode cap, if it is shiny like new.

    Replacing the HV cable is a bit tricky, unless u know how to yank it, there is a trick to it in some cases. Sometimes it has interlocks, so you need to twist and pull, in others it comes out pretty easily. You have to check the service guide for the proper way.

    If you cannot pull the HV cable easily, do not force it, as you will destroy the inter connections. Even cleaning and replacing the cap is enuf in most cases.

    I really would not rely on RTV silicone. Unless it states "High Voltage Insulation"

    Do google around for HV silicon and sealants.
     
  7. aouate3

    Thread Starter Member

    Apr 17, 2011
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    Ok, i will look into it
     
  8. R!f@@

    AAC Fanatic!

    Apr 2, 2009
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    By the way, AKB is nothing to worry about, it is due to sparking.
    Nominally AKB is the acronym, it is used to monitor the HV flyback pulses for shorts.
    Remember to clear the NV ram when u r done.
     
  9. beenthere

    Retired Moderator

    Apr 20, 2004
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    For stuff to surround your anode cap - http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/4226.html

    BTW, trying to remove the anode cap without discharging the CRT can knock you across the room. The tube carries a charge for days. Discharging is done with a clip lead to ground and the other end to a thin, long shafted screwdriver. The screwdriver is slid under the cap until it make solid contact with the pocket in the glass. Wait an hour before trying to remove the anode cap.
     
  10. R!f@@

    AAC Fanatic!

    Apr 2, 2009
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    Yup! that's the stuff I use, just no name. Nice find Been.
     
  11. aouate3

    Thread Starter Member

    Apr 17, 2011
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    Yes, i am aware of the high voltages inside of the units, i have dealt with flybacks before, i always discharge them before messing with them, even if they have been unplugged for 10 years, i will still attempt to discharge them ,i have built coilguns before, and it doesnt feel good being shocked by one, i am 16 and i have been messing with electronics since i was about 5



    Ok, quick question, i have a spare anode with a cap and cable, the the cable is severed, it was orignally on a old tv set that got its screen smashed, the owner scrapped it for parts and cut the cord on th flyback, what if i were to take the new anode cable i have, stip about a inch of insulation from it, take the old anode cable, cut the anode and cap off of it, strip about a inch of insulation off of it, wrap the leads from the two cables together, solder it, heatshrink it, then wrap it with electrical tape, do you think that will work? do you think that is a smart idea or should i just stop being cheap and find a good cable?
     
  12. R!f@@

    AAC Fanatic!

    Apr 2, 2009
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    You are being cheap....
    Stripping the HV cable is a bad idea. Unless u get HV sealant, that idea is a NO! NO!

    Believe me, u will get corona arcing from the joint, I know, I have tried it.

    By the way, how's the old cable, can you take a picture and post it.
     
  13. aouate3

    Thread Starter Member

    Apr 17, 2011
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    the cap on the orignal cable is pretty badly damaged, but on the cable i have that i was going to splice, the cap is perfect, let me get a picture
     
  14. R!f@@

    AAC Fanatic!

    Apr 2, 2009
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    Then replace just the cap and u will be good to go.
     
  15. aouate3

    Thread Starter Member

    Apr 17, 2011
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    Haha, i was going to ask you when i posted the pictures if i could just replace the cap.. here are the pictures anyway, any adivce about switching the caps?

    I have the tube pulled from the tv, and sitting on my living room table
     
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    Last edited: Apr 19, 2011
  16. R!f@@

    AAC Fanatic!

    Apr 2, 2009
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    sheeesh!! that cap has got to go....
    I surprised it lasted this long..
     
  17. aouate3

    Thread Starter Member

    Apr 17, 2011
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    yep, i know, i put the new cap on, but i dont have sealent at the moment
     
  18. aouate3

    Thread Starter Member

    Apr 17, 2011
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    how bad of a idea would it be to test the tv without that sealant on there?
     
  19. R!f@@

    AAC Fanatic!

    Apr 2, 2009
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    If it is clean, and without any static, u won't have a problem BUT, I think sealant is used due to the fact that the tube is small, unlike in bigger tubes where the outer chassis coating is pretty far away.

    Worst case will be ur H-out will blow :D
     
  20. aouate3

    Thread Starter Member

    Apr 17, 2011
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    Well, i definietly dont want it blow out, but im going to test it
     
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