Solenoid valve for beer brewing

Discussion in 'The Projects Forum' started by misfit0138, Aug 29, 2015.

  1. misfit0138

    Thread Starter New Member

    Jan 4, 2015
    15
    0
    Hello everyone. I am trying to do this project as cheap as possible but with being safe at the top of the list.


    I need to control a propane solenoid valve with a temp controller but i want to add a thermocoupler to the valve circuitry so if the pilot light goes out it shuts the solenoid off. I need to make 2 of theses.

    im looking to use a solenoid like this: This one is 12 volt dc. Id like to find one thats like 12 or 24 volt ac and just use a small step down transformer. Unless i use a pc power supply which i have 1 or 2 laying around. not sure which one im going to go with. http://www.amazon.com/Amico-2W-160-15-Position-Water-Solenoid/dp/B008MN5I9U

    I have 2 cal 3200 temp controllers with pt 100 probes
    Here are the electrical specs on the controller
    http://www.west-cs.com/assets/Manuals/3200-Concise-Manual-English.pdf

    I have a few various SSR's,switches etc for the project.

    I have looked into propane valves for hot water heaters, furnaces etc, there just pretty expensive and im tring to keep this sort of clean and neat looking.

    All circuits,switches and controllers will be mounted in a control box im designing now.

    Heres a pic of the stand. I built this a little while ago and since i aquired the temp controllers id like to get it to work. I would like to mount solenoid right after the 90 on top of manual valve

    ive looked into thermocoupler amplifiers etc. just not sure how to wire everything up. Anyone have any ideas.
    IMAG0119.jpg IMAG0118.jpg
     
  2. Dodgydave

    Distinguished Member

    Jun 22, 2012
    4,969
    744
    looking at your temperature controllers, use terminals 5,6 relay contacts rated 230V ac 2Amp, to feed the 12v to your gas valve, are you using one temp controller for flame sensing and the other for beer temperature?
     
  3. GopherT

    AAC Fanatic!

    Nov 23, 2012
    5,986
    3,728
    How accurately does the temp need to be controlled?

    For how long do you need temp at each set point before a new temp is selected?

    How often will this device be used (once per Day, week month) - how durable must it be?

    Will someone be near by the whole time (how safe must it be)?

    Will it be used in/near a building?
     
  4. MaxHeadRoom

    Expert

    Jul 18, 2013
    10,507
    2,367
    If you use a 12v transformer, you only need to add a rectifier bridge for DC operation, I prefer DC solenoids, they are more efficient and less prone to failure.
    Is there anything out there in the RV world for propane that may be less expensive?
    Max.
     
  5. shortbus

    AAC Fanatic!

    Sep 30, 2009
    4,003
    1,521
    You don't list where you are living(helps get better answers), but do you have scrap yards there? Salvaging burner controls from old water heaters or even furnaces should be possible. The usual failure in a water heater is do to a rust out in the water vessel not due to burner controls.

    Just using a solenoid valve for something like this is dangerous. That's why they use burner controls. No gas flow unless the pilot light is burning. Without a burner control there is the chance of an explosion.
     
  6. ShopRat59

    Member

    Nov 27, 2013
    39
    1
    My heat-n-glo gas fire place has all the components you need - not sure if they sell replacement parts, but you could check them out at:
    http://www.heatnglo.com/
    Good Luck
     
  7. misfit0138

    Thread Starter New Member

    Jan 4, 2015
    15
    0
    90870[/ATTACH] sorry to get back to everyone so late. but here is a really rough quick sketch of what i need. I need to duplicate this twice. each controller controllers its own pot/burner. Switch 1 I need to be able to override solenoid 2/pilot light so i can hit switch 2 for the electrical spark ignition to heat up thermocoupler so both solenoids can get power. (so lets say if burner is off cause temp controller is at high point and pilot light gets blown out both solenoids lose power/shut off). i do not have the solenoids yet but the ones i am somewhat looking at are 12 vdc, thats where the pc power supply comes in. So im not sure how i would wire in the thermocoupler to control all of this mess. I am also a begginner at this electronics stuff. i have done a few small thing here and there. This would be one of my biggest projects to take on. Pretty much all of the 110 vac i can handle. The 4 solenoids will cost me about 60 bucks. Thermocouple and igniter are pretty cheap, about another 40 for 2 set ups. Not sure on Amplifier for thermocoupler, i think there sort of cheap.I have machined control box already with most of what i need. ppics to follow soon. I know if i purchase lets say furnace or hot water heater solenoids there like 250 each for solenoid control board, and pilot light.

    and to answer some questions:
    I live in new jersey and just about every scrap yard will not let you take any thing out. And i would also hate to get something that will only last a time or 2 and then im back at the drawing board.

    I have looked into the solenoids and all for gas fireplaces and all, they will not do the pressure i need. I need like 11"WC (water column propne term) and i believe fireplaces are only rated for like 4" WC

    I home i didnt confuse anyone, and hope i have all info needed.

    Thanks
    Steve
    Scan.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2015
  8. MaxHeadRoom

    Expert

    Jul 18, 2013
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    Is this 12v from a separate PC supply or the PC hooked up to the system, a PC P.S. would definitely not be my first choice, also not all PC P.S.'s have the current capability at +12v I would be inclined to get a small 12vac transformer a put a bridge on the output. Probabally much more reliable.
    You could check out the door bell transformers at H.D. etc.
    Max.
     
  9. misfit0138

    Thread Starter New Member

    Jan 4, 2015
    15
    0
    I will program the controller which is easy to what i need. most of the time it has to stay at about 210 or boiling point for an hour. Which one of the controllers will more then likely be set at all the time. the other controller will be changed here and there depending on what kind of beer i brew, usually between 130 and 175 for about an hour to 2 hours again depending on the beer i brew.

    it will be used probley 1 a month more in the summer and less in the winter

    It will be used out side of course. usually in the middle of the yard.

    most of the time someone will be near it, but i want it safe. when the burner is running you can def hear it, put if pilot goes out i dont think it will be heard. And ill be brewing beer which if you know anyone who does theres beers being drank while doing it.

    The stand i made is very durable. The control box i am making is being made out of 1/8 aluminum and will be able to be removed to keep in doors when not being used cause the brew stand itself stays in the shed.
     
  10. misfit0138

    Thread Starter New Member

    Jan 4, 2015
    15
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    Yes it is a 450 watt power supply from a pc. It will not be hooked up to a pc. just using the power supply. I looked into the door bell PS and was thinking a pc power supply would be better off, more of a cleaner power. correct or no?
     
  11. MaxHeadRoom

    Expert

    Jul 18, 2013
    10,507
    2,367
    For DC solenoids you do not really need smoothed DC, the inductance of the coil has a levelling effect on the current, also a DC inductive device once pulled in, requires less current to maintain it.
    BTW I recently built a foot operated pneumatic bottle capper, for the bottles I have that are not flip top stopper.
    Max .
     
  12. misfit0138

    Thread Starter New Member

    Jan 4, 2015
    15
    0
    Control box is getting wired up. IMAG0193.jpg IMAG0192.jpg
     
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