That sounds like something to try, have a sketch handy for us picture thinkers?

Its so simple you don't need a sketch.

Some hold the view that its safer to put the diode & switch in the neutral lead so the additions are not at live potential.

If you build it in a small die-cast box with proper cable glands and earth point, it might then probably makes no difference.

 

Most (non-temperature controlled) are regulated by the resistance wire tempco' - sinking the heat in standby makes the element draw more current and shortens its life.

Good Point !!! I am definitely going to try the diode approach
the idea for the ceramic stand... is it bleeds off excess heat, and allows your iron to recover working temp quickly.

This, based on the fact the iron is not left to idle for extended periods, it is best to just turn it off... it doesn't take all that long for an iron to heat up.

 

Some hold the view that its safer to put the diode & switch in the neutral lead so the additions are not at live potential.

One would want to install the diode/switch so it will clip the AC upstream of the heat element for the idea to work... clipping on the the neutral after the fact would not do the deed...

 

One would want to install the diode/switch so it will clip the AC upstream of the heat element for the idea to work... clipping on the the neutral after the fact would not do the deed...

Its a series circuit - the same current flows whatever part of it you look at.

 

Its a series circuit - the same current flows whatever part of it you look at.

Yes it is series... but you lost me at the last curve...

With a "hot" and a *neutral* ---> the hot feeds the heating element... what good would it do to clip the AC after it leaves the heat element into the return, or neutral... ??

 

Yep, the JBC AD2700 has an automatic sleep function and heats up to operating temperature in just a few seconds. JBC tips are supposed to be extremely durable.

That what's covered in burned flux appears to be a chrome layer over the ironclad tip according to this nice graphic from JBC:

Those tips are also considerably more expensive than $5. As I'm very new to this level of soldering, I want to make sure I don't wastefully wear out the tip.

I didn't know tips were made of different materials. Mine is probably a few mm shorter than when I bought it; it began to wear towards the center and ended up with a tip in "U" form, instead of the usual "^" form. I had to file one of the tips of the "U" so I could continue soldering... but for what I'm reading, even though it continues to work, I guess it's time to buy a new one.

 

I believe the conversation is about these two circuits and I also believe that they will not work well if the heater is self adjusting by the coefficient of resistance depending on the temperature of the soldering iron.

 

Yes it is series... but you lost me at the last curve...

With a "hot" and a *neutral* ---> the hot feeds the heating element... what good would it do to clip the AC after it leaves the heat element into the return, or neutral... ??

You *REALLY* need some proper book learning!!!

 

You *REALLY* need some proper book learning!!!

Smile when you say that, pardner.

Everybody makes mistakes.

 

To JBC Tools; Thank you! It's wonderful for the soldering iron manufacturer to make an appearance with the official info.

I checked your website for your tech info on "increasing tip life" and noticed you are still using wet sponges, although you specify that they are to be kept slightly damp (not saturated) and use only de-ionised water.

My experiences with apprentices in the workshow etc is that they make sponges WET and with little care, and de-ionised water sounds like another thing the guys won't bother to get right.

Is there a particular reason for staying with damp sponges rather than some of the newer tech metallic cleaners?

The sponge is the least harmful cleaning method and should be used damp with distilled water. However you can use the brass wool, inox wool, brushes, etc. if necessary. There is no particular reason to use the sponge instead of other methods, it just depends how clean you want your soldering tips. For example, the sponge leaves your tip clompletely clean and the brass wool leaves a small layer of solder which prevents tip oxidation. The best option is the combination of both as you can see in this JBC tip cleaning stand (image). Remember to keep tips always tinned, even when you finish your job.
Hope this helps.
regards,
JBC Soldering SL.

 

Thank you for your answer.