Soldering iron conversion?

THE_RB

Joined Feb 11, 2008
5,438
It should click quite noticeably. I had a few of those wellers in my workshop many years ago, and remember the click well.

You can even feel it click in your hand when the magnet assembly moves.

A 60W iron should get to temp in well under a minute, and after that it should click every 30 seconds or so when sitting idle. Touching it on a solder joint should also make it click as the sudden temperature drop will cause the element to click on.
 

#12

Joined Nov 30, 2010
18,224
Measure the current to find out if you have it running at half power. Even with the AC rectified into funny lumps, the difference will be obvious on any amp meter. It won't be accurate, but it will be obvious that a major change is happening.
 

cornishlad

Joined Jul 31, 2013
242
The most basic test is to remove the tip and turn it on. It should NOT heat up without the tip in place. Another test. Connect a resistance measuring meter to the AC and push the tip in and out. The heating coil resistance should show/not show reliably. Most likely this will show your micro switchcontacts are stuck closed.

This from memory but I think it matches the theory that the tip looses it magnetism at the specified temperature and the switch contacts open.

Roger
 

Thread Starter

Max12345

Joined Aug 27, 2013
63
THE RB, I can confirm that there are no clicks, so the temp switch must be stuck on.:(
#12, my multimeter cannot measure AC current, only AC voltages.:(
cornishlad, with or without the tip, the resistance of the element is 0.84Ω, and the iron also heats up without the tip.
So the iron is no longer temp controlled and the switch is stuck closed.
I'll look for a replacement part here, hope I can find one.
Thanks to all for their invaluable input, I've learned so much about Weller irons in the past few days.
Max
 

cornishlad

Joined Jul 31, 2013
242
I've assumed from the start that you have this iron
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Weller-W6...Iron-60-Watt-Soldering-Iron-New-/360571906303
It's not a cheap iron and well worth fixing. There are people who have been using the same iron from Weller for 30 or 40 years as the basic design doesn't seem to have changed and the supply of new tips, elements etc are fully supported. Many people choose the 24v version with a transformer and integral stand but the 240v versionis probably just a good.

These irons have an plated, iron tip which them selves last for years in hobby use. My first iron was a Henley Solon with a copper bit and it needed constant attention as the tip constantly got eaten away into a deep hollow if not dealt with.

get it fixed and buy a proper Weller sponge (dampened) to wipe it on and you are good to go, joint after joint, after joint.....

Roger
 

Thread Starter

Max12345

Joined Aug 27, 2013
63
Thanks cornishlad. Actually my iron is very similar to the one in the link, but my number is W60C and that one is a W61D, unless mine is just an older model number.
It's nice to know that I have an expensive iron, but the parts will no doubt also be expensive. However, as you say, it is worth the money to fix it.
I searched today, but could not locate any spares locally, but I have sent an email to a specialist tool company who will see whatt they can come up with.
Thanks again.
Max
 

#12

Joined Nov 30, 2010
18,224
I have only ruined 2 Weller tips in 40 years. For that quality, I would pay $5 or $10 for just the tip and be happy. Compare to a soldering iron my nephew picked up at a swap meet. It failed in 3 days. Even if it cost 10 cents, it was not worth the money.
 

Thread Starter

Max12345

Joined Aug 27, 2013
63
For 25W you will need 142V ac, V^2 = WxR,

your iron is 60watts at 220volts, thats a resistance of 220x220/60= 806.66 ohms,

25Watts x 806.66Ohms= 20166 sqroot= 142Vac


best to use a light dimmer to alter the wattage.
As I see that over 630 people (and counting) have viewed this post, I thought that I would add this attachment.
With the diode in series (giving me hailf of 220V,110V), I was not getting 30W from the iron, only 15W.
I built a light dimmer (for about a twentieth of the price of a commercial one) and calculated the voltage required for a given power for the iron, and marked this on my plastic light dimmer box.
I calculated this with resistors as well, but the high power resistors are way too expensive and they would also dissipate a lot of heat, so I scrapped that option.
Thanks Dodgydave
Max
 

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