I have a clock in a car, it's a wide known factory defect with one of the resistors.. anyways the first time I did it I had it working again, but soon again the connection was broken again with the SMD resistor..

For a SMD component is it required to push down on them? That's the only thing I did not do It seems to be just one side that is lifting that's the issue.

 

I have a clock in a car, it's a wide known factory defect with one of the resistors.. anyways the first time I did it I had it working again, but soon again the connection was broken again with the SMD resistor..

For a SMD component is it required to push down on them? That's the only thing I did not do It seems to be just one side that is lifting that's the issue.

If this is a common issue it's possible the wattage rating of the resistor is too small. Try using the next larger wattage if it will fit.

When soldering it make sure both sides are down. Don't have too much solder on the pad, remove the excess before soldering

 

If this is a common issue it's possible the wattage rating of the resistor is too small. Try using the next larger wattage if it will fit.

When soldering it make sure both sides are down. Don't have too much solder on the pad, remove the excess before soldering

I will have to check the resistor I think it might have 502 on it

 

That's the resistance. The last digit is how many zeroes to add on the end of the other digits, eg 472 is 4.7K 2403 is 240K
Usually 3 digits means 5% tolerance 4 digits 1% or better.

 

Wattage is the physical size of the resistor.
I've repaired more than one item with an open SMD resistor where the wattage rating is marginal - sometomes the designer simply just messes up

 

Well I see what happen.. this time I went to open the box and one of them just came right off.. good thing I was sitting over a rubber mat, I cleaned up the pads (looked rough) and it's working again.