Small Audio amp questions

Thread Starter

chunkmartinez

Joined Jan 6, 2007
180
mF is millifarads. If I'm not mistaken, you had 2.2mF caps on each of your power supply rails in one of your schematics.
Yes..Is there any advantage to using more capacitance? The more the better? Or one will work just fine?

Also, If/when I add biasing diodes to reduce crossover distortion do I add them the same as the dual rail power supply amp? From base to base, and a resistor from VCC? I have seen capacitors across the base over to the emitter on the original circuit I went off of, should I add one? And last, there is another cap...look here http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_6/chpt_6/10.html Should I add in those other components?
 
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Thread Starter

chunkmartinez

Joined Jan 6, 2007
180
When I connect the batteries and measure the batts voltagein series I get .05v! similar issue with my audio input, when I try and hookup the scope it dosn't show any voltage or detect anything and I know their is a signal there because I can disconect it from the circuit and see the signal so the circuit is making both the input signal and battery voltage dissapear! I havent gotten it to work once. Seems like the circuit has some cancellation or something...Maybe the opa2134 cannot use a single side power supply? The datasheet says 5v is the minimum voltage supply but I don't know alot about the specs of a datasheet and I may be wrong that it means It cannot use GND as the negative rail.
 
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Thread Starter

chunkmartinez

Joined Jan 6, 2007
180
Wow lol I just figured out that what looked to be seperate buses on my new breadboard were actually common so my power terminals were shorting...ooops.
 

Ron H

Joined Apr 14, 2005
7,063
When I connect the batteries and measure the batts voltagein series I get .05v! similar issue with my audio input, when I try and hookup the scope it dosn't show any voltage or detect anything and I know their is a signal there because I can disconect it from the circuit and see the signal so the circuit is making both the input signal and battery voltage dissapear! I havent gotten it to work once. Seems like the circuit has some cancellation or something...Maybe the opa2134 cannot use a single side power supply? The datasheet says 5v is the minimum voltage supply but I don't know alot about the specs of a datasheet and I may be wrong that it means It cannot use GND as the negative rail.
Too many shotgun questions again for me! How about you take baby steps. Get the existing amp running. Then we can talk about making it better.
If someone else wants to tackle all these questions, please do!
 

patricktoday

Joined Feb 12, 2013
157
I can throw in 2 or 3 cents. Does a 'scope measure RMS or peak to peak? If you are looking at the waveform and you compare the difference from the upper peak to the lower peak that would be peak to peak. You have to calculate the RMS from that.

The offset you were getting of .2 V from your buffer strikes me as most odd. It should be probably 10mV or less depending on the opamp, not 200mV. Look at the sticky thread above about decoupling op amps if you haven't done that. I doubt the LED was the real culprit. Really, if you had that kind of offset that would be the first thing to resolve because it is only going to amplify itself in the next stage. And if all else fails? Use a current limiter ;)
 

Thread Starter

chunkmartinez

Joined Jan 6, 2007
180
Okay, lastnight I constructed the single ended style amplifier and it showed good results, no offset! :)

So...Now I am onto a big breadboard that I am using permanetly for the final...I just don't want to have this project etched, as nice as that would be.

Lastnight's test was with just 9vs on the verge of dying so the real test is once I build my Mains power supply, and use an SMPS DC voltage boosting regulator. to get my voltage to 30v P-P.
 
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