Roland XP-60

Discussion in 'General Electronics Chat' started by R!f@@, Nov 17, 2012.

  1. R!f@@

    Thread Starter AAC Fanatic!

    Apr 2, 2009
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    I have attached the Service manual if u need to see it.

    I got my hands full but managed to squueeze out some time for this. The keyboard is a roland XP60. The LCD has worn out of and is pretty useless. The best I can do is shown below and remind u, u can only see it if u an inch away from it.

    [​IMG]

    The LCD part no is LCM32080YGV and is made from sharp.

    here is a back peek together with it's cable header


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I am asking for help from more experienced guys like RB in finding me a suitable replacement unit.

    Below is a screen capture of the LCD schema header area ( Page 28 from the manual)

    [​IMG]

    My problem is I cannot decide how many column and rows this thing has. And the kind of addressing done.

    Please can any one tell me the details on the LCD connector so I can find a suitable one to fix it.
     
  2. R!f@@

    Thread Starter AAC Fanatic!

    Apr 2, 2009
    8,750
    760
    So I went crazy over the net and seems this is pretty hopeless.

    Next choice is to identify the ID and make another display to work.
    Is this possible.?
     
  3. JohnInTX

    Moderator

    Jun 26, 2012
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    Based on the P/N I would guess that its a 320 column by 80 row graphic display with a YellowGreen backlight.

    Based on the pinout, my first guess would be that it self-scans after you load the dots to memory but maybe not. One way to tell is to look at XSCL (X axis serial clock) and see if its continuous or only active when the display changes.

    You are missing some rows/cols. This can be bad drivers or bad contact of the LCD glass with the PCB. The latter can sometimes be fixed by dissembling the display. Do this by bending out the metal tabs of the frame. The display glass is probably connected to the PCB patterns with zebra strips. Gunk on the PCB lands or glass can be cleaned and the thing reassembled with the z-strips moved slightly to hopefully pick up a better connection. I give it 50% chance of improvement with about the same probability of making things worse.

    Its hard to tell from the picture about the bad contrast. If its scratched, you can replace the top polarizer. You also might probe around for the contrast pin (it looks like some + and - volts in use - not unheard of).

    If the glass itself is shot, you are probably sunk. It looks like it was made by Sharp for Roland. That doesn't necessarily mean its a super-custom unit and was probably made from standard (at the time) stuff but will be hard to track down. I've long since tossed my Sharp databooks so no help there.

    The connectors can probably be had from Samtec or Berg.
     
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