I've done some pretty cracked up repairs with jumpers and some cleaning and re-do of the ground plane; but I have never seen this before at the TV repair shop?

Holy she - ite batman?

kv

 

I can't remember, but I'm sure it is not a secret. Probably on the Interwebs somewhere. If I remember, I'll come back here and post it.

One thing I do know, it couldn't have been Zenith. After 3 years with Sears, I got a job in a freelance shop. There was one TV that I couldn't quite get the color right. I eventually read the code dates in it and found it was 13 years old. No wonder I couldn't quite get it "right". A Sears TV would have been the trash can long before it got to 13 years old!

 

+1 for Alec-t's idea....
You might try with 'Kynar' wire. (Like this: http://www.jameco.com/1/3/kynar-wire )
It's fiddly, but do-able... and much simpler than making a new pcb!

Quick question then??? Are these jumper connectors you see on pcb boards (see image below)

Good enough to use to make those jumper connectors from my remaining leads to the each of the 20 individual pins?

 

In your case, the fiberglas board is sound.
I would just epoxy a connector to the board and run 30AWG wire-wrap wire from the pins to the traces.

 

Yes, those are jumpers, but you will find them stiff and uncooperative. Much easier to use new copper wire than to unsolder a piece that is going to fight you.

 

I've done some pretty cracked up repairs with jumpers and some cleaning and re-do of the ground plane; but I have never seen this before at the TV repair shop?

Holy she - ite batman?

kv

Let me once again show you that this is the part of the board that I need to repair and I've numbered & drawn in yellow where each lead is assigned to the corresponding pin of the 20pin plug. I bought a DJ Mixer from Amazon that wouldn't power up when I plugged it in. So clearly defective I got my $$$ back and I got to keep the mixer for FREE. So I opened it up & right away saw how messed up this area was. Turns out that this exact spot on the board carries power up from the sub assembly as well as audio in/out. So all I was looking for was the best solution toi utilize in my fix here and I'm considering just cutting this part of the board out & etching a new replacement part as it is a single sided pcb board, permanently affixing this newly etched piece to the board & then run fine copper wire from the remaining traces on the original board all 20 to their corresponding pin. Let me know if I need to be more clear in my explanation and images.

 

Yes, those are jumpers, but you will find them stiff and uncooperative. Much easier to use new copper wire than to unsolder a piece that is going to fight you.

Yeah that was just an image for example I've already got jumpers ready to go that are very malable.

 

In your case, the fiberglas board is sound.
I would just epoxy a connector to the board and run 30AWG wire-wrap wire from the pins to the traces.

Sweet deal MrChips and thanks to all of you who helped out a fellow Circuit Boardian if I can call it that. Well I'm off to perform some surgery on this board and I'll let you all know the outcome of this project and take care.

 

Let me once again show you that this is the part of the board that I need to repair and I've numbered & drawn in yellow where each lead is assigned to the corresponding pin of the 20pin plug. I bought a DJ Mixer from Amazon that wouldn't power up when I plugged it in. So clearly defective I got my $$$ back and I got to keep the mixer for FREE. So I opened it up & right away saw how messed up this area was. Turns out that this exact spot on the board carries power up from the sub assembly as well as audio in/out. So all I was looking for was the best solution toi utilize in my fix here and I'm considering just cutting this part of the board out & etching a new replacement part as it is a single sided pcb board, permanently affixing this newly etched piece to the board & then run fine copper wire from the remaining traces on the original board all 20 to their corresponding pin. Let me know if I need to be more clear in my explanation and images.
View attachment 77696

Nah, I'm just taken back by the amount of work involved.

Good luck with it.

kv

Happy Holidays

 

I can't remember, but I'm sure it is not a secret. Probably on the Interwebs somewhere. If I remember, I'll come back here and post it.

One thing I do know, it couldn't have been Zenith. After 3 years with Sears, I got a job in a freelance shop. There was one TV that I couldn't quite get the color right. I eventually read the code dates in it and found it was 13 years old. No wonder I couldn't quite get it "right". A Sears TV would have been the trash can long before it got to 13 years old!

They did plenty that were not there own, I'm trying to remember too! There was a Manufacture back then that had a real problem with burning. Might have been an RCA?

kv

 

I've done some pretty cracked up repairs with jumpers and some cleaning and re-do of the ground plane; but I have never seen this before at the TV repair shop?

Holy she - ite batman?

kv

You haven't seen it at a TV repair shop because its not a TV. Its for a Professional Studio DJ Mixer.

 

You haven't seen it at a TV repair shop because its not a TV. Its for a Professional Studio DJ Mixer.

I work with Clearone and have worked with Gentners the older version and both are the same just Clearone is updated version. It's Graphical Mixer; I am Certified by Clearone. Your are not going to see them in the local shop nor see them anywhere but inside Clearones manufacturing. I work for a University and Operate and Install plenty of Commercial Equipment.

When it comes to board repair; if it's not a Multi-layer or two sided board they are pretty much the same. Today's TV's rival what electronics are inside your Pro-Audio piece.

I've looked into other pieces of equipment that are supposed to be all that- Pro-Camera etc. The are all worth Thousands to purchase new.

It just seemed like a lot of work? With that aside I'll say I hope you can save her from the junk.

I don't like seeing good pieces go down. But; I know they will some day.

Happy New Year

kv

 

They did plenty that were not there own, I'm trying to remember too! There was a Manufacture back then that had a real problem with burning. Might have been an RCA?

RCA...Quasar..."Works in a drawer" That's what RCA was touting in the early 1970's.

Sears had 3 sources (that I remember). You could tell by the 3 digit prefix on the model number which source made it...but I just knew the 3 prefixes, not the companies behind them. There was the "high B+ model", the "gutless wonder", and just occasionally, a Japanese made TV. Made no difference to me. As a beginner, they were all, "learn as you go". The constant, desperate, scramble to learn circuits, combined with the sign over the door (Satisfaction Guaranteed) and I was a burn-out in 3 years. Glad to see that job in my rear view mirror!

 

Yup, I think thats the one.

kv

 

It looks messy, but kits are available. http://www.solder.net/products/pcb-repair/baseboard-repair-kits/

Copper tape and wire wrap wire jumpers are also things to consider.