re-wiring winch controls

Thread Starter

cgalpin

Joined Mar 28, 2012
18
I believe this is what I need to replace S1 from the schematic to use 24V on the switch side and 110V for the winch side. Please let me know if you see any problem. Basically compare the functionality provided by the two drawings.

IMG_0978.jpg

R!f@@, everything needed should be in this picture. The "NEW" drawing should do the function of "S1" but instead of the DPDT switch, use two push buttons at lower voltage on the switch side.

BillB3857 or anyone else - would you mind confirming these relays and transformer should work? I can get these today:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/OMRON-Square-Base-General-Purpose-Relay-2W929

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WHITERODGERS-Transformer-3A358

And hopefully one last question - are these relay sockets the best way to wire these up? Granger part #4DG59

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/OMRON-Relay-Socket-For-Double-Pole-Double-4DG59

Thanks,
charles
 

Thread Starter

cgalpin

Joined Mar 28, 2012
18
The second one I posted in the other post doesn't need a base. So it ends up being cheaper.
Is that 12V DC or AC? - it doesn't say.

I didn't get to go to Grainger before 5pm so haven't ordered yet. Here is what I was planning on getting - I thought these relay sockets would allow for cleaner wiring with the screw posts - let me know if you disagree as the pictures are not that good and I am not entirely sure what I am getting if I do this.

3 x https://new.grainger.com/product/OMRON-Relay-2W929
3 x https://new.grainger.com/product/OMRON-Relay-Socket-4DG59
1 x https://new.grainger.com/product/OMRON-Din-Mounting-Track-6X295
1 x https://new.grainger.com/product/DORMEYER-Transformer-4X746

I have 3 of each because I need another relay for the hoist control as well but I can do that with just one. I'll make an enclosure once I can lay them out.

Thanks,
charles
 

R!f@@

Joined Apr 2, 2009
9,918
This Relay is 24VAC. See the data below, coil rating.

I believe that transformer is OK for the purpose.

Tell me, do u wanna rewire the circuit from ground zero using those relays with ur remote controller.

If this the case I need some more readings.

Oooh boy, this is confusing, wish I was I had it. It would be a whole lot easier.
It's a lotta time u know to sit down and look at em pictures to figure these things.

Tell me, can u run the motors on it's own. Do you know how to connect the motor with the caps to reverse and forward just by rewiring the motor wires ?
This is important to know if u dunno what I think u know.
U might blow a motor winding or melt a relay if I mess up the whole thing u know. Better be sure.
 
Last edited:

shortbus

Joined Sep 30, 2009
10,045
Wouldn't it just be easier to put the original switches/controls into a new single box? That would allow both devices to use there original controls and still be in a single "pendant".
 

Thread Starter

cgalpin

Joined Mar 28, 2012
18
Wouldn't it just be easier to put the original switches/controls into a new single box? That would allow both devices to use there original controls and still be in a single "pendant".
This was the original plan. First, I couldn't find 6 strand chord which is what I'd need to keep using the same switches, and then wasn't sure if the resistance added by 20' of chord would be an issue or not. If you think not, and know where I can buy 6 strand chord then I'm all ears.
 
Last edited:

shortbus

Joined Sep 30, 2009
10,045
I would use the original cords and by some of the heat shrink tubing the correct size, and put the cords through it and shrink it. Heat shrink tube is available cut off a roll in any length you want. Any electrical supply should also carry cable to work too, if you want to go that route. Even Home Depot or Lowe's should have the cable.
 

Thread Starter

cgalpin

Joined Mar 28, 2012
18
I had considered zip tying or taping two chords together but didn't think of heat shrink. The existing chords are very short so I'd have to buy more (which should be readily available in 3 and 4 strand) but i wonder if pulling two cables through 20' of heat shrink is even possible and suspect the resulting pair would be very stiff. But this gives me pause and I'll think about it.

I will say this, that other than the problems presented with this new pendant I do like it very much. It's a nice piece of kit and includes an integrated steel cable that takes the weight off of the chord. Of course I could do this myself, but at some point I think I'm better off with the "professional" pendant and just adding some relays in an enclosure up on the winch.
 

Thread Starter

cgalpin

Joined Mar 28, 2012
18
I decided I should continue down the path of using the nice professional looking pendant so went and got the transformer and relays today and did a test rig of the circuit. It works great.

IMG_0981.jpg

The extra socket is for the DPDT-NO relay I have on order for the hoist control, but with the socket I have everything needed to size and make an enclosure, and hopefully wrap this up over the weekend. I'll post pictures of the final product when done.

Thanks for all the help!

charles
 

Thread Starter

cgalpin

Joined Mar 28, 2012
18
Finally done.

After waiting a week for a relay, I found I didn't understand what a "normally open" relay was and it was too tall to fit in my enclosure anyway. I had thought a normally open relay would allow me to use a single relay to drive the contact closed in two directions, with the normal state being open :) So I got two more of the same kind of relay I used for the winch and put it all in a small project enclosure I found at radio shack. I think it came out pretty well and it works great.

IMG_0986.jpgIMG_0988.jpgIMG_0990.jpg

Thanks again for the help.
 
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