RE: Where & How to test & locate Parasitic drain-2000 Chev Express?
- Thread starter 1.5 v bat
- Start date
As it turns out, I had a total of 940mA (0.940A)draw at the battery during key-off hibernate state. I opened my fancy transmission-fuse-circuit-switch.
-And still read a 540mA draw, (0.540A). -So I went back to the fuse pulling thing. I was working my way up from the bottom. pwr- windows, pwr-Acc, the 10 amp Radio-B. That was It. The Radio-B fuse.
So if you're paying attention, I have a double edge sword here, 2 fuse circuits responsible for the parasitic draw.
The Red 10 amp Trans-Fuse and the Red 10 amp Radio-B Fuse.
So people on this site and the GM Technical Service Bulletin say that 30mA (.030A) is the Specified Normal draw during the Key-Off-Hibernate-State.
Well I'm taking a break for now, because I now got it down to 50mA (.050A) taken with an analog ohm meter. I made another toggle switch but still have yet to install, in-line fuse holders in each of the above circuits. And yes I know they go in series like a switch would.
I did not think that I would have to operate two switches. And install two in-line fuse-holders.
The PCM must have shorted the two circuits together or the Radio, Which I believe plays the role of the BCM is the culprit.
Keep in mind that this van runs fine. The 4L60E 4 speed Automatic transmission upshifts and downshifts smoothly through all it's speeds; low, 2cnd, 3rd, and Drive. -And yes, reverse gear also works fine.
And the motor puts out smooth steady power if it is adequately warmed up.
I am not leaving my battery connected overnight tonight.
I just got done charging it for a whole night. And measured it at 13.58 v right after taking the trickle charger off of it.
(it had been drained all the way down)(nothing at the key Saturday)
See the two toggle switches attached to the fuse block in the link below. (I have yet to secure them with duct tape).
-And still read a 540mA draw, (0.540A). -So I went back to the fuse pulling thing. I was working my way up from the bottom. pwr- windows, pwr-Acc, the 10 amp Radio-B. That was It. The Radio-B fuse.
So if you're paying attention, I have a double edge sword here, 2 fuse circuits responsible for the parasitic draw.
The Red 10 amp Trans-Fuse and the Red 10 amp Radio-B Fuse.
So people on this site and the GM Technical Service Bulletin say that 30mA (.030A) is the Specified Normal draw during the Key-Off-Hibernate-State.
Well I'm taking a break for now, because I now got it down to 50mA (.050A) taken with an analog ohm meter. I made another toggle switch but still have yet to install, in-line fuse holders in each of the above circuits. And yes I know they go in series like a switch would.
I did not think that I would have to operate two switches. And install two in-line fuse-holders.
The PCM must have shorted the two circuits together or the Radio, Which I believe plays the role of the BCM is the culprit.
Keep in mind that this van runs fine. The 4L60E 4 speed Automatic transmission upshifts and downshifts smoothly through all it's speeds; low, 2cnd, 3rd, and Drive. -And yes, reverse gear also works fine.
And the motor puts out smooth steady power if it is adequately warmed up.
I am not leaving my battery connected overnight tonight.
I just got done charging it for a whole night. And measured it at 13.58 v right after taking the trickle charger off of it.
(it had been drained all the way down)(nothing at the key Saturday)
See the two toggle switches attached to the fuse block in the link below. (I have yet to secure them with duct tape).
If your going this route, wouldn't a battery disconnect switch be better? http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/battery-disconnect-switches
KeepItSimpleStupid
- Joined Mar 4, 2014
- 5,088
I just have to say this, because it's the first thing that came to my mind. Besides this thread needs a bit of humor.
It doesn't come with "Bubble gum and paper clips!"
The problem is not funny, but the good part is the TS has made some progress.
My question is do you have any diagrams of the circuits you are troubleshooting?
For instance, a image search took me to autozone where I snagged this diagram ....
Notice that the 10 A fuse you called radio B has two parallel loads, the radio and the upfitter provision relay. Granted, this is suppose to have energy ONLY when the key is in the ACC / Run positions.
If you find Connector C208, you could disconnect it and see if your current drops to what you would expect.
For instance, a image search took me to autozone where I snagged this diagram ....
Notice that the 10 A fuse you called radio B has two parallel loads, the radio and the upfitter provision relay. Granted, this is suppose to have energy ONLY when the key is in the ACC / Run positions.
If you find Connector C208, you could disconnect it and see if your current drops to what you would expect.
KeepItSimpleStupid
- Joined Mar 4, 2014
- 5,088
That draw with the radio. I would look at it again after an hour. Chevy BCM's anyway may keep things like the radio on until you open the door.
Auto lights might keep the circuit engaged too. Not saying it is, but the radio could be a false lead. Just don't have a hood light mucking up the measurements.
Auto lights might keep the circuit engaged too. Not saying it is, but the radio could be a false lead. Just don't have a hood light mucking up the measurements.
Thanks Joe, I have this schematic somewhere in all my papers from All Data.com. But the circuit you're looking at is label radio-1 at the top
of the diagram. And there is a Radio-1 fuse toward the top of the actual fuse box. I Attached a picture of it back a few blogs.
Thanks Kiss, -for not bustin on me too hard. I have made some progress with the van and with some experience testing amperage.
It was crazy to operate the van today without any fuse protection on: Trans, and Radio-B but it was nice to shut the drain off at the 2 toggles
cause my hood had a bunch of snow on it.
And Thank You Shorty for the link to the battery disconnect but the only time I want to open my hood is to put a quart of oil in it and check my
coolant.
And I have to remember to schedule a time for me to install those in-line fuse holders and label them.
Oh ! and the 50mA draw all last night did not drain the battery ! (it has a normal 50mA draw even with the Trans and Radio-B toggles in the open state)
of the diagram. And there is a Radio-1 fuse toward the top of the actual fuse box. I Attached a picture of it back a few blogs.
Thanks Kiss, -for not bustin on me too hard. I have made some progress with the van and with some experience testing amperage.
It was crazy to operate the van today without any fuse protection on: Trans, and Radio-B but it was nice to shut the drain off at the 2 toggles
cause my hood had a bunch of snow on it.
And Thank You Shorty for the link to the battery disconnect but the only time I want to open my hood is to put a quart of oil in it and check my
coolant.
And I have to remember to schedule a time for me to install those in-line fuse holders and label them.
Oh ! and the 50mA draw all last night did not drain the battery ! (it has a normal 50mA draw even with the Trans and Radio-B toggles in the open state)
They do make remote switching disconnects, I'm just using Summit as a reference. They vary in price with shopping other places. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sms-333126/overview/
bwilliams60
- Joined Nov 18, 2012
- 1,442
Best to find and fix the problem now before more happens. Disconnect switch is a bandaid, no offence but as someone mentioned, start disconnecting things from the circuits to narrow it down. Divide and conquer.
