How far off is 'not quite'? Any switched-mode so-called pure sine-wave inverter can be expected to have some ripple on its output waveform. The better the quality the less the ripple.It seems it's not quite pure sine wave
Can't you provide a ground?Not having anything attached to the ground plug-ins is a concern.
You use the input for analog audio, if your computer still has one. The oscilloscope software looks at what would normally be a microphone or a line-in signal. They work OK for ~5-5000kHz or so, depending on your sound card. It'd be fine for looking at a 60Hz wave.A software based one? Something done on the pc? How does that work?
Would I just need to tap a ground onto one of the external chassis screws and then place the other end of that wire with an eyelet onto the ground plug of the power cord?How far off is 'not quite'? Any switched-mode so-called pure sine-wave inverter can be expected to have some ripple on its output waveform. The better the quality the less the ripple.
Can't you provide a ground?
Thanks for that info and getting me started in looking into this.You use the input for analog audio, if your computer still has one. The oscilloscope software looks at what would normally be a microphone or a line-in signal. They work OK for ~5-5000kHz or so, depending on your sound card. It'd be fine for looking at a 60Hz wave.
You would apply the probes to the output of your inverter, and I'd do it while under load, perhaps just a light bulb.
Note that you have to be very careful connecting anything to your audio-in port, or you risk damaging it. If this is all new to you, I wouldn't proceed until you're sure what you're doing.
But in the meanwhile it sounds like your inverter is probably fine for most applications.
Someone with a knowledge of US wiring codes should be able to tell you.Would I just need to tap a ground onto one of the external chassis screws and then place the other end of that wire with an eyelet onto the ground plug of the power cord?
Looks like a pretty good unit to me. Seems to work better what a fully charged battery.Not having anything attached to the ground plug-ins is a concern.
Wondering if I should throw this thing away.
Thanks all for the info. I will test this out when I get back and post the results.The light just came on concerning the ground issue. A few years ago I installed an inverter into my RV. I connected up the ground and neutral of the output into the distribution/breaker box. When I turned the inverter on, there was a puff of black smoke, and that smell of burnt plastic that we all know and love/hate.
The problem was that the output of the inverter was not floating relative to the 12 volt input. So, in an RV, the negative of the battery is connected to ground (chassis) as well as ground and neutral of the AC. Connecting AC neutral to ground was a dead short for the inverter.
foolios
I believe you have one of these kind of inverters. To test this, measure AC voltage from negative 12 volts to ether of the 115Vac pins. (Loading should not matter.) I think you will read 60 Vac from both AC output pins to -12V.
What this means is that your load or your batteries must float. Do not connect that ground pin.
Mark
P.S. - The inverter I installed in my RV was a Xantrex Inverter1000.
With inverter on and no load plugged into the AC side, I am not getting any voltage from the 12v negative to either of the open AC slots in the open AC plugin port.test this, measure AC voltage from negative 12 volts to ether of the 115Vac pins. (Loading should not matter.) I think you will read 60 Vac from both AC output pins to -12V.
What this means is that your load or your batteries must float. Do not connect that ground pin.
Ok, then that one doesn't need a ground, right? It's ok to use as is.I say there is nothing wrong with that inverter and it is time to end this thread.
by Aaron Carman
by Aaron Carman
by Jake Hertz