Can't open your file. For me express pcb uses .sch files. Maybe a screen shot?

 

Can't open your file. For me express pcb uses .sch files. Maybe a screen shot?

its eagle layout editor, ill see if I can figure out how to do a screenshot

 

lets try this one.

 

Here are some TO220 transistors. TIP35 is NPN and TIP36 PNP.
I made a couple of tweeks:

 

Hello,

I have taken TO3 transistors, as they can be cooled a little better as the TO220.
There are larger heatsinks available for TO3.
I have attached the transistor table I found them in.
(just unzip the file and open it in microsoft-excel or openoffice-calc)
You can select parameters on the top row of the table.

Bertus

 

more

Here are some TO220 transistors. TIP35 is NPN and TIP36 PNP.
I made a couple of tweeks:

thanks for the corrections on my schematic. So are my connections from the bridge backwards or are the changes you made there add-ons? and what is the function of the resistor you added on the pots? and r1 and r4 need to be moved to the emitter of the transistor instead of the collector? and is the diode on the -v side backwards or just need removed? And can you explain why to me please?

 

Hello,

You can also see that he has drawn a couple of resistors between the output of the regulator to the adjust pin of the regulator.
These resistors should have a value of 120 Ohms.

Bertus

 

the tip35-36 are like the 317-337 so it would make connection to the heat sink easier. I have this crazy heatsink from an old mobile audio amplifier that the whole top of it is a very serious heatsink, the base is thick and it has 30 fins all the way across the top,
I intend on using this for the heatsink for my psu, I is big enough to cool 40 mosfets (20 down each side) so it should be very capable of keeping an lm317 and lm337 and the 2 pass transistors cool.. the amp was metered at 2.k watts and if I cut it carefully it will fit perfect on my psu case, and look cool.. I also have a serious fan designed for cooling High power amps that im going to blow across the sink.

 

Hello,

You can also see that he has drawn a couple of resistors between the output of the regulator to the adjust pin of the regulator.
These resistors should have a value of 120 Ohms.

Bertus

whats the purpose for those also.. thanks

 

Hello,

The regulator needs a minimum amount of current (10 mA) drawn for stable regulation.
These resistors are a load for the regulator.

Bertus

 

I think im real close to starting my build on this.. I really appreciate your help here. what would have happened if I fired it up the way I had it?

 

Hmm. Hard to say. Since the +/- voltages were backwards probably the big caps would spew stuff all over the room. Then the regulators would probably go "pop".
Speaking of that the negative cap is backwards and we should probably add a 2 amp fuse in the primary of the transformer. Lets have one more look before you build it.

 

Hmm. Hard to say. Since the +/- voltages were backwards probably the big caps would spew stuff all over the room. Then the regulators would probably go "pop".
Speaking of that the negative cap is backwards and we should probably add a 2 amp fuse in the primary of the transformer. Lets have one more look before you build it.

I agree.. that was a rough draft as I labeled it. Once I get an acceptable idea of how to create the +/- supply, agree on an acceptable ampherage, and make it variable on the + and - side, and feel that it will work if built as-is. I want to start to add the extras. like the meters, I have ordered enough parts( 4 7071's 16 single green 7 segment displays,555 timers,and an lm34) for my meters, 1 amp meter, 2 voltage +/- meters, and a temp meter. and my protection circuits. I read somewhere today that if I add a ceramic cap in series with a polarized cap it would reduce the ripple. I also want to add a 5vdc usb port to it. Now heres my new thought, One of you, I think maybe it was ronv,ill have to read through all 112 posts to find out. that I couldn't use the same power source for my meter circuits off my main supply that the meters are measuring, So I still have that 8.1vac sec. coil coming from my transformer, I was thinking about making a rectifier from diodes for it which should give me 9vdc after the bridge and using that to power my meter circuits and have them measure the main voltage from my 317's so it woukld take no current from my maim supply.but I want a 7a fuse behind the main switch where the ac meets the transformer. I want to add a 5a circuit breaker on the outputs, and im going to have a power switch on the front to turn on the entire circuit after the bridge but before my main circuit. and do you think the 9vdc sec. coil should be fused, even thought its only running the 7071's, 555's, and 7 segment displays?