I'm on Ebay and most of the collets that I need ship from Hong Kong, Thailand, or somewhere else in the East; maybe I'm not searching for the right thing here. I'm searching "0.5 mm dremel collet".

Although using a collet is always a better practice, I have never had a problem using the miniature chuck for holes down to 1/32" in diameter.

 

maybe I'm not searching for the right thing here. I'm searching "0.5 mm dremel collet".

They are labeled as the largest size they will hold...not the smallest. That's in the fine print.

 

I'm looking for a press stand as well, just be on the safe side.

 

I am pretty sure I have also used small nails to drill holes in PCB type boards. The frictional heat and the nail point cut-melt-burn through.
I do what I have to do, whatever it takes when I drill any hole.

A trick for pulling ring shanks, If you can chuck the head end into a power drill, If it spins, it will come right out as it cuts the wood fibers holding the nail ridges. I had a bunch of 4x4 and nothing else would budge them.

 

THAT explains a lot... don't sweat it man... buy a Dremel... I normally drill those holes manually without a hitch using the flex shaft...

How in the #$%& aren't you breaking bits constantly with one of those?

 

How in the #$%& aren't you breaking bits constantly with one of those?

I have the Dremel hanging from a hook in the wall, so that the flex shaft is always nearly straight and vertical... plus I have great pulse...
EDIT: I've only broken one 1/32" carbide bit in the last year... and I drilled thousands of holes with it

 

I am pretty sure I have also used small nails to drill holes in PCB type boards. The frictional heat and the nail point cut-melt-burn through.
I do what I have to do, whatever it takes when I drill any hole.

A trick for pulling ring shanks, If you can chuck the head end into a power drill, If it spins, it will come right out as it cuts the wood fibers holding the nail ridges. I had a bunch of 4x4 and nothing else would budge them.

No why are you going to get a small enough hole with a nail. Especially when it comes to connectors where space is already tight. Holes that are significantly larger than the component leads makes soldering a hassle.

 

I have the Dremel hanging from a hook in the wall, so that the flex shaft is always nearly straight and vertical... plus I have great pulse...
EDIT: I've only broken on 1/32" carbide bit in the last year... and I drilled thousands of holes with it

You should be a surgeon. Even with a drill press I break bits. Never fails my hand will twitch and move the board when the bit is in the board.

 

I'm pretty much sold on a rotary tool workstation. Now it's down to whether I want to get Dremel or Proxxon. I'm seeing reviews everywhere that the Dremel 220 workstation is cheaply made and wobbles in every other axis besides the one along the drill head.

 

You should be a surgeon. Even with a drill press I break bits. Never fails my hand will twitch and move the board when the bit is in the board.

I forgot to mention that I always tape the PCB to the table (usually a scratch of 1/2" MDF, or 1/4" PVC foamboard) to prevent it from moving while I work on it. My technique consists on holding the flex-shaft with both hands, one holding the upper end, so as to support it and guide it, and the other one very close to the chuck (so as to place the bit and push it downwards), with the latter hand's wrist resting on the table and both elbows too... that helps stabilize things a bit... All that while I sit on a normal chair, with the table as high up as my chest (about 40" high)... that posture allows me to keep a very close eye on what I'm working on, and it's also not too uncomfortable ...

 

I found this dremel on Ebay for what I think is a good price. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Variable-Sp...1391497307?pt=Power_Tools&hash=item41843d805b)

I would need to buy the right chucks, though.

The 3000 model comes with the right size collets for most drill bits you will be using. I would go with the bits that have the extra shaft attached. A lot easier to manage.

 

I forgot to mention that I always tape the PCB to the table (usually a scratch of 1/2" MDF, or 1/4" PVC foamboard) to prevent it from moving while I work on it. My technique consists of holding the flex-shaft with both hands, one holding the upper end, so as to support it and guide it, and the other one very close to the chuck (so as to place the bit and push it downwards), with the latter hand's wrist resting on the table and both elbows too... that helps stabilize things a bit... All that while I sit on a normal chair, with the table as high up as my chest (about 40" high)... that posture allows me to keep a very close eye on what I'm working on, and it's also not too uncomfortable ...

I can't imagine getting straight and accurate holes without a drill press.

 

I'm pretty much sold on a rotary tool workstation. Now it's down to whether I want to get Dremel or Proxxon. I'm seeing reviews everywhere that the Dremel 220 workstation is cheaply made and wobbles in every other axis besides the one along the drill head.

I have had no issues with the 3000 series drill and press. Yes the press is made kind of cheaply but if adjusted correctly and setup correctly it is fine.

 

I can't imagine getting straight and accurate holes without a drill press.

Actually, it's the other way around. The ring of copper around the hole to be drilled helps to center and align the bit properly, if the hand holding the chuck is relaxed... afterwards you just push downward... A press won't allow you to do this... the copper ring would have to be perfectly centered under the bit (and it seldom is, with that technique)... this exerts a side load on the bit that will make it wobble and possibly break.

 

I got tired of breaking small carbide bits. I have a bad habit of trying to move to the next hole while the bit is still in the hole just drilled.

I have compromised for holes of about 0.025" to 0.030" that I drill the most. I use cobalt twist drills. They don't burn up as fast as high speed steel and don't break like carbide.

 

I have been drilling PCB holes with those bits for years with a bench top 3/8" drill press set at 600 RPM. Those drills bits brake real easy if you happen to move the the board in the drilling process. My biggest problem now is seeing where to drill, so I use a magnifying lens. Heck I am going to turn 75 this year.

 

I have been drilling PCB holes with those bits for years with a bench top 3/8" drill press set at 600 RPM. Those drills bits brake real easy if you happen to move the the board in the drilling process. My biggest problem now is seeing where to drill, so I use a magnifying lens. Heck I am going to turn 75 this year.

A pair of bifocals (extra-strong) from the pharmacy is easier than holding or positioning a magnifying glass. Even if you put a weaker pair over the top of your fist pair of glasses.

 

A pair of bifocals (extra-strong) from the pharmacy is easier than holding or positioning a magnifying glass. Even if you put a weaker pair over the top of your fist pair of glasses.

Thanks GopherT, the thing I actually use is viewer that fits on my head and has a great magnification with the focal length adjustable with a knob. I already wear bifocal lenses. I couldn't remember the item I use until a second thought.

 

I'm pretty much sold on a rotary tool workstation. Now it's down to whether I want to get Dremel or Proxxon. I'm seeing reviews everywhere that the Dremel 220 workstation is cheaply made and wobbles in every other axis besides the one along the drill head.

Harbor Freight has benchtop drill presses on sale all the time for $39. And they always have 20% off coupons. You can get a complete drilling solution for under $35, that is solid and can be used for drilling other things. A Dremel is not a drilling tool. It's a miniature high RPM cutting, grinding and polishing tool. Dremel bearings don't last long at high RPMs. A drill press you can run for hundreds of hours at lower RPMs. Brass/aluminium collets wear out quickly also.

 

Thanks GopherT, the thing I actually use is viewer that fits on my head and has a great magnification with the focal length adjustable with a knob. I already wear bifocal lenses. I couldn't remember the item I use until a second thought.

I'm near sighted... -3.75 on the left eye, and -3.00 on my right eye... I'm 50 and there was a time in my 30's when going for lasik was a huge temptation... I'm so glad I never caved in to vanity... of course I still have to wear glasses, but when I take them off is like having a natural magnifier that lets me see things things in perfect detail, even every single pin of SMT chips and all...