OK, so pins 2 and 6 are connected together?no i only have this one. i have 9v at pin 3 0v at pins 2&6, 6v at pin 5.
Well, sort of. The problem here is that the 555 timer was spending too much time high, and not enough time low; the average voltage on C2 was staying too high to turn on Q1/Q2 and enable current flow through the LED.Don't forget, that is maximum settings, you can adjust the intensity of the LED brightness even wider by adjusting R2 down.
Well, R1 and C1 could definitely be changed, but when I posted that initially, I was looking at the dual 555 circuit, not this later one. Whoops!I liked your idea about making R1,R2 100KΩ and C1,C2 22µF. You could then translate the 555 to the CMOS version, and really drop the current requirements. It would make the 9V battery last several days or more, as well as squaring up that wave form more.
You're welcomeBTW, thanks for the assist Wookie!
As to the latter idea, I thought of it, but you couldn't get the adjustment out of it you need. With R2 it should be able to go completely dark before lighting again.Well, sort of. The problem here is that the 555 timer was spending too much time high, and not enough time low; the average voltage on C2 was staying too high to turn on Q1/Q2 and enable current flow through the LED.
It's that "Darlington follower gotcha" again. Might've been fixed by simply pulling pin 5 down a bit by using an 18k to 22k resistor between it and ground...
Well, R1 and C1 could definitely be changed, but when I posted that initially, I was looking at the dual 555 circuit, not this later one. Whoops!
You're welcome
Here's an idea - ever think of using a voltage follower from C1?
You already had a rough triangle wave; no need to make things more complicated.
When I started in electronics, the 555 timer hadn't been introduced yet.I forgot about the two types. I used the other style in labs.
RS used to be a hobbyist experimenter's dream back in the 70's. You could go into a Radio Shack, and they would have aisles filled with all kinds of IC's, tools, etc - you could find most things you needed, and the people in the store actually knew their stuff about electronics.I had to have Rs call to different stores to find these two.
ESD is a big problem in arid climates. Here in FL, it's so humid whether you're inside or out that ESD is of little concern. Wrist straps are a good idea, but unless you have a way to test them, you don't know if they are effective or not. Just having dry skin will make them ineffective.Yeah im going to make a wrist strap or try and find one at rs before I start with the ESD stuff.
R1/C1 can be very easily exchanged by shifting decimal points. R2/C2 is a different matter. You might consider going to MOSFETs instead of a Darlington configuration.reducing the caps and getting different pot wont be a problem.
You would need to find a push-on, push-off switch somewhere. Radio Shack hasn't carried that kind of thing in many years. You'd be better off with a toggle or slide switch; one side on, one side off.Also I mentioned earlier post about adding a push button to turn it on and off. Would I add it inline to the Vcc side or would it work better on the ground side?
Yep, they'll each need the same value resistor. Don't forget that since they are in parallel, the current draw will go up.Also would the extra leds need the same resistor? Im trying to remember my kindergarten lessons on parallel LEDs and resistance.
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