So I de-soldered everything from the board. Took it to the car and connected it to the power source.
I started from the bottom using my voltmeter to get readings.
1-The first one gave me 13.8 volts.
2- second one to the right gave me 9 volts.
3- third one gave me 6.4 volts.
4- fourth one gave me nothing.
5- and the fifth one(furthest one to the top) gave me 9.3 volts.

At this point, the clock stopped working. Which made me think, I think I must've shorted something out in the board!

The map buttons(ones to your right) don't light up at all.


What am I missing here?

Does the clock have a fuse?

 

What am I missing here?

Diagnostic skills, soldering skills, design skills, a wiring diagram for that car, a schematic for that board...
Enthusiasm isn't enough. Modern cars are not simple.
<rant deleted>

 

There appear to be two resistors in parallel controlling the current for each LED, a 560Ω and a 680Ω, marked 561 and 681 respectively. Their combined value is around 308Ω. You could probably replace the two resistors with two 470Ω resistors of the same size but unless your SMD soldering skills are better than what I see in the removed LED pads, there's a good chance you'll destroy the board in your efforts. I could suggest a few measurements to make to verify the guesses my calculations were based on but again, if you knew to make those measurements, you probably wouldn't be asking for the help you are. I'm afraid you may take this as unhelpful or even insulting but it's an honest appraisal of what I see.

If you simply need to reduce the resistance of a SMD resistor - it might be safer to piggyback the addition on top the one that's there.

 

Of course, assuming there's adequate headroom in the enclosure and the use of two largish resistors in parallel isn't a thermal management feature. I chose not to make those assumptions when I posted my advice.

 

Of course, assuming there's adequate headroom in the enclosure and the use of two largish resistors in parallel isn't a thermal management feature. I chose not to make those assumptions when I posted my advice.

SMD resistors are pretty thin, so stacking a couple probably isn't taller than the LEDs in the picture.

Usually in the vicinity of about 20mA for a LED - hardly in the same league as the heater chain dropper resistor in an old hybrid TV.

 

Your comparison to the height of the LEDs evades me since the LEDs are on the opposite side of the board.

Your assumptions have a fair chance of being correct but without more reverse engineering than I, or apparently anyone else is willing to do, they add risk.

This is all moot anyway since the OP has admitted he got in over his head and given up doing it himself.

 

Your comparison to the height of the LEDs evades me since the LEDs are on the opposite side of the board.

.

Didn't notice that - but they'll still be lower than the TO252 packages.

 

Didn't notice that - but they'll still be lower than the TO252 packages.

That's a useful reference only if the enclosure back is an uninterrupted flat plane. Automotive electronic enclosures frequently are not. Basing a proposed solution on such assumptions increases the risk of failure.

 

That's a useful reference only if the enclosure back is an uninterrupted flat plane. Automotive electronic enclosures frequently are not. Basing a proposed solution on such assumptions increases the risk of failure.

Anyone can look for problems that won't happen. Try to think positive for once.