Need help wiring a 130VDC Gearmotor

Discussion in 'General Electronics Chat' started by txapacheguy, Apr 20, 2013.

  1. txapacheguy

    Thread Starter New Member

    Apr 20, 2013
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    Greetings!!! This is my first post on this website. Thank you in advance for any help you guys can provide with my current project. I tinker quite a lot with 12V automotive electronics, but this project is slightly beyond my level of expertise, and involves components I am not used to working with.

    As stated in this thread title, I am trying to get a 130 volt DC gearmotor running. This is the motor I bought.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/271163410058?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

    It is a 130VDC , 1.8A, 1/4HP, 125RPM motor.

    Since I did not have a source of 130VDC power, I purchased this motor drive:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/260965161713?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

    MINARIK DC DRIVE MODEL # NRGD02-D240AC-4Q
    INPUT: 115/230 VAC 4 AMPS 60 HZ
    ARMATURE: 0-130 / 0-240 VDC 2 AMPS


    I attempted to wire everything up this evening, and cannot get more than 5 volts DC out of the outputs for the motor drive. It appears that I have the AC input wires and DC output wires installed correctly according to the users manual for the motor drive. I placed a 10K ohm potentiometer on the motor drive per the users manual for speed control, and it has no effect on the voltage output.

    Unfortunately, I do not know what questions to ask or exactly which direction to proceed from this point forward. If anyone has experience dealing with stuff like this, I can provide pictures, wiring diagrams and user's manuals for everything I am using. If I have obtained the wrong components for this project, hopefully, someone can point me in the correct direction with what will be needed to get this motor running.


    Thanks again in advance for taking the tim[SIZE=2]e to read this, and for any help you guys can provi[SIZE=2]de!!!

    Will[/SIZE][/SIZE]


     
  2. gerty

    AAC Fanatic!

    Aug 30, 2007
    1,153
    304
    Some drives have a 3 pin header for setting motor direction. The ones I've used need a jumper from the center pin to either of the outside pins, DO NOT CONNECT ALL 3 TOGETHER..Until the drive knows which direction to turn, it won't.
     
  3. txapacheguy

    Thread Starter New Member

    Apr 20, 2013
    5
    0
    Thanks for the response!!!

    The jumpers on my drive appear to be set to the correct configuration. One set of jumpers configure the armature voltage select. I have mine set for 90 VDC. The next jumper controls the armature/tachometer feedback. Mine is set for armature, and I do not have a tachometer for this project (yet). The final jumper controls the tach feedback voltage. Mine is set for 50 to 100v output, although I do not have a tach connected. I might try the 180VDC armature jumper setting tomorrow...

    Edit:

    The 180VDC setting did not fix anything. The drive is indicating that it is in a current limiting condition, although it is only putting out 5 to 6 volts DC through the outputs for the motor.
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2013
  4. tubeguy

    Well-Known Member

    Nov 3, 2012
    1,157
    197
    I think you could test the drive itself with a 100-200 watt 120 volt light bulb to make sure it's ok.

    Another concern is that motors frequently draw much more than there rated current on startup which may explain why the drive is current limiting.

    Can you check the ohms on the motor to make sure its not shorted ?
     
  5. #12

    Expert

    Nov 30, 2010
    16,296
    6,807
    The startup current for that motor is about 13 amps. The driver can't do more than 4 amps. I believe you've made a mistake in your purchase.
     
  6. killivolt

    Active Member

    Jan 10, 2010
    367
    317
    http://www.minarikdrives.com/catalog/MDCatalog2004.pdf

    Page 28, it's an SCR package. Maybe, one of the seasoned people on the site can verify if it will be applicable.

    I'm not schooled on DC motors, better at AC. Most likely there will be a better driver in the Catalog.

    I think if we knew what you were going to do with it, would help. Also your location, helps knowing where to get parts.
     
  7. txapacheguy

    Thread Starter New Member

    Apr 20, 2013
    5
    0
    Ouch... That would explain why my motor does not run. I wish I had asked some of these questions before I started buying stuff...


    I am not schooled on much of this stuff at all.

    I purchased the motor to build a scuba tank tumbler for cleaning the inside of compressed air cylinders with ceramic grinding media. Its going to closely resemble a really big rock tumbler... I basically started out looking for a motor of the 1/4HP variety that would turn at 110 to 125rpm or so. I can adjust the diameter of the drive rollers on my project to get the desired rpm on the tanks I intend to tumble, so I have some leeway on motor rpm, and do not need the ability to adjust motor rpm on the fly with a potentiometer.

    I live in Colorado Springs, CO. There are a few industrial supply places around here, but I am gathering most of my parts from ebay, surplus websites, and Lowes/Home Depot once I get the motor running.

    The question I have now I suppose is what would be the cheapest and quickest way to get this motor going? I have heard of guys hooking up a rectifier to convert the voltage and then a few resistors (or some other component I cannot remember) to reduce the voltage down to the specification voltage for their motor.

    Thanks again for the help!!!
     
  8. killivolt

    Active Member

    Jan 10, 2010
    367
    317
    I thought it runs on AC too, why DC?

    Edit: I guess you could create a secondary circuit and supply voltage, if it's going to run at a constant speed, that will be rectified.

    If you want VRF, it's not going to work and #12 is right.
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2013
  9. txapacheguy

    Thread Starter New Member

    Apr 20, 2013
    5
    0
    I thought it ran on AC as well when I bought it. Did not look closely enough at the item prior to buying it.

    I'd like to proceed with the secondary circuit and abandon the motor controller unless you guys can point me in the direction of one for a reasonable price. Any guidance I can get to point me in the direction of the proper components for the secondary circuit with the rectivier would be great. I am tired of throwing money at this project for incorrect components or stuff that I do not need. I guess that is the cost of an education sometimes though...

    Edit: I am not sure what the term "VRF" means. Can you please clarify? Thanks!!!
     
  10. killivolt

    Active Member

    Jan 10, 2010
    367
    317
    Sorry, I meant Variable Frequency and or Variable Speed control.
     
    txapacheguy likes this.
  11. killivolt

    Active Member

    Jan 10, 2010
    367
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    http://www.kbelectronics.com/Variable_Speed_DC_Drives/DC_Drives_Chassis.htm

    You might find something here, from what I could see most are running at 90vdc rated around 10amps, the good part is they are protected and isolated you won't get shocked running them.

    Someone else on the site may have a better solution, you could just rectify it but, you'll need an Isolation transformer rated at 13amps and smoothing caps.

    Edit: You'll want motor protection in case it locks up, if not it'll burn up. Pre-built is better. There is also the threat of de-magnitizing. I'm not sure how that would happen, I don't know how, but building your own seems risky without some engineering help.

    If I were an engineer, I could help you better.
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2013
  12. killivolt

    Active Member

    Jan 10, 2010
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    317
  13. txapacheguy

    Thread Starter New Member

    Apr 20, 2013
    5
    0
    ^^^ Thanks!!! I will give those guys a call tomorrow and try to figure something out.
     
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