So far the circuit is running fine without changing the value of R1, but it would be better to check with you will there be any long term damage over time.

Are we able to include PWM or charging to the circuit or i should let it run for another week or so?

 

Suggested changes:
R2 = 56
R1 = 56
R4 = 130
Add another red to R3 string, R3 then = 62

 

Did you ever look up " LED grow light " in find box, inf such as 7W/ sq ft, 75% blue, 25% red in spring, reversed in fall, & little absorption in IR oe UV.

 

Suggested changes:
R2 = 56
R1 = 56
R4 = 130
Add another red to R3 string, R3 then = 62

Thanks I will replace with that.

Did you ever look up " LED grow light " in find box, inf such as 7W/ sq ft, 75% blue, 25% red in spring, reversed in fall, & little absorption in IR oe UV.

Yes I did some research before, But I am only using the grow light for indoor plant and that setup is enough for them. Also I mention on the PWM pulse frequency above 720Hz which I found out lately that it help to not only save electricity but fooling the plant believing it is full light to them.

 

Did the 750 Hz ref. give any dutycycle figures? 50% OK??

 

Did the 750 Hz ref. give any dutycycle figures? 50% OK??

Hi Benard, I am not sure on that as I did not read anything about duty cycle. But I guess it should be okay for 50% as the LED light will not look flashing right?

 

I read a little about duty cycle, and it seems that 50% is norm. There is some controversy about the frequency, but 720 Hz seems to be common. I don't think there has been complete testing done, especially on different types of plants. Potato slips are often mentioned.

 

I read a little about duty cycle, and it seems that 50% is norm. There is some controversy about the frequency, but 720 Hz seems to be common. I don't think there has been complete testing done, especially on different types of plants. Potato slips are often mentioned.

It is base on some research done on Taiwan University for their agriculture.

 

From jenovauh's ref., http://screwdecaf.cx/sept.html, total LED lines = 20W, listed power =1 W, duty 5% ?? ' Will carry on.

 

From jenovauh's ref., http://screwdecaf.cx/sept.html, total LED lines = 20W, listed power =1 W, duty 5% ?? ' Will carry on.

total LED lines = 20W

You mean LED lights?

Can it be done without the use of microprocessor and replace with some cheaper IC/timer like NE555?

 

Yes. How many LEDs & specs. May need all of the panels for LEDs, so postpone battery back-up for awhile.

 

Yes. How many LEDs & specs. May need all of the panels for LEDs, so postpone battery back-up for awhile.

This is the patent ratio for LED wavelength combination from wiki. Actually there are a lot of ratio which are pretty much around the same or so called optimize for different types of plant and crops.

"the proportion of twelve red 660 nm LEDs, plus six orange 612 nm LEDs and one blue 470 nm LED was optimal", such that the ratio of blue light to red & orange light is 6-8%

 

Still need to know how many of each color that you propose to use. A list of your available parts would be helpfull, maybe in a PM.

 

Still need to know how many of each color that you propose to use. A list of your available parts would be helpfull, maybe in a PM.

Sure I will send you a pm on the parts I have.

 

Still need to know how many of each color that you propose to use. A list of your available parts would be helpfull, maybe in a PM.

I am thinking about using 16 Red, 8 Orange and 4 blue LEDs for the configuration and I had just send you a pm on the parts I have on hand. Thanks a lot.

 

Here is one option: Each string runs at 750 CPS @ 10% duty, but the 555 clock is running @ 10 times 750. The string drivers can be just about any thing that you have 10 of. The average current drain is only about 25 mA, not much light. As an alternate , two strings can be connected to each of 5 drivers and clock halved, giving 20%. 4017 would be reset from pin 1 to give a circulating 5 count. The V regulator is just to keep LED operating V at or below 9V. When battery backup is added, tighter control will be needed. Part of IRLZ44N got lost.

 

Here is one option: Each string runs at 750 CPS @ 10% duty, but the 555 clock is running @ 10 times 750. The string drivers can be just about any thing that you have 10 of. The average current drain is only about 25 mA, not much light. As an alternate , two strings can be connected to each of 5 drivers and clock halved, giving 20%. 4017 would be reset from pin 1 to give a circulating 5 count. The V regulator is just to keep LED operating V at or below 9V. When battery backup is added, tighter control will be needed. Part of IRLZ44N got lost.

Can I have the exact part number of 4017? Is it known as HCF4017BEY from STMicroelectronics, HEF4017BP from NXP or CD40174BE & CD4017BEE4 from Texas Instruments? Wondering if battery backup is added and need to remove IRLZ44N, why don't we add the battery in now?

 

A 4017 16 pin DIP is about the same from many mfg's, I have RCA CD4017BE, Mot. MC14017BCP, Nat. CD4017BM or BC; take your pic.'not removing IRLZ44N, part of number is missing on drawing. With battery, LED 1 will be replaced with either LM385Z, 1.235V ref, or LM336Z, 2.5V ref. for tighter control in battery charging. First choice is 2.5V. This LED part is ready, battery addition is not ready. I am in the middle of a construction project that needs finishing.
If testing with a 9V battery, disable shunt regulator by grounding FET gate, or it might try to ground the battery.

 

A 4017 16 pin DIP is about the same from many mfg's, I have RCA CD4017BE, Mot. MC14017BCP, Nat. CD4017BM or BC; take your pic.'not removing IRLZ44N, part of number is missing on drawing. With battery, LED 1 will be replaced with either LM385Z, 1.235V ref, or LM336Z, 2.5V ref. for tighter control in battery charging. First choice is 2.5V. This LED part is ready, battery addition is not ready. I am in the middle of a construction project that needs finishing.
If testing with a 9V battery, disable shunt regulator by grounding FET gate, or it might try to ground the battery.

Okay sure I will get the 4017 first cause I never come across using this part before. Gonna go buy it and meanwhile I will do up the rest on a breadboard first. Will update again when it is done. Thanks a lot.

 

Here is what I think will work, do not know if or when I'll put it on a breadboard. Still missing is the boost, lots of chips and inf around or we scn roll ower own. Note that it is on full time except when battery is low or night. Really short on part #, mine are mostly surface mount, in an earlier post believe a suitable P-ch FET was listed, you have comparators, diodes ,plain 1N914 or equiv., shottky, 30V, 1A , V ref- LM 336Z, 2.5V. Variable resistors best if multi-turn. 9 V battery is to allow high drive for U5, good for shelf life a beyond. Looks like I had wrighters cramps & did not lable diodes- for another day. Maybe we'll get some help!!