Minn Kota Riptide controller

Discussion in 'General Electronics Chat' started by Vectorges, Jan 4, 2012.

  1. Vectorges

    Thread Starter New Member

    Apr 4, 2011
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    I have a Minn Kota Riptide RT101S trolling motor. The previous owner modified the "throttle control" to work via remote control. Now I need to replace the potentiomoter at the end of the throttle handle. It has two ribbon cables with three wires in each cable. I would like to mount the potentiometer remotely from the controller. Does anyone know how to wire in a new pot? I have contacted MK directly and their advice is to replace the entire pot board assembly.

    Thanx for help with this question
    .
     
  2. thatoneguy

    AAC Fanatic!

    Feb 19, 2009
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    Can you post photos of the remote controller? High resolution, in focus images are best.

    We had a few people making the remote control a few years back. IIRC, it was switching power between multiple wires rather than simply a potentiometer, a combination of switches and pot.

    What is the model number and approximate year of manufacture of the motor?
     
  3. Vectorges

    Thread Starter New Member

    Apr 4, 2011
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  4. thatoneguy

    AAC Fanatic!

    Feb 19, 2009
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    What is the IC number?

    Can you get closeup shots of that homemade PCB, both sides?

    You should be able to attach images fine, they just need to be under 300k, and take a few minutes (up to 30) to show up as they are moderated until you have over 10 posts.
     
  5. Vectorges

    Thread Starter New Member

    Apr 4, 2011
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    The homemade PCB is a receiver from a radio controlled car. It controls the motor that twists the original speeed control handle. The original setup was like in the second photo. The motor attaches to the end of the handle, which turns the white soft rheostat. I want to replace the soft rheostat with a pot of equal resistance(s) and wire it back to the "cable to controller".
     
  6. thatoneguy

    AAC Fanatic!

    Feb 19, 2009
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    The white part that spins looks like a rotary encoder from the punch through lines on the PCB, that's a stock PCB there. There's usually 5 or 6 wires that go down to the motor, and are given different voltages depending on the position of the white thing.

    The white thing should have 2 or more metal "wipers" that touch the PCB, so you should be able to remove the servo that was added, and twist it by hand to make the trolling motor work. Assuming the current remote works.
     
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