Thanks Sarge,

For all the help. You did indeed cover connecting the remote to the board, however I'm not that bright these days and it still a bit confusing.

I connect the + from the board to the + and the NO on the remote.

I connect the RX-18 to the pad for the COMM on the remote

I don't understand where to connect the -, and where I get +

I have four pads, three wires and no clue how to get the battery involved.

Thanks Sarge.

Don

Don,
I'm really sorry, but I think that you need to ask your Docs for help with your Alzheimer's syndrome.

I am NOT a doc. However, I think that you might benefit from treatment related to Alzheimer's disease symptoms.

Please talk to your Doc about this as soon as possible.

I wish you the best, Don. Please get help with this ASAP.

I'm no Doc, but I recognize the signs.

Get 'er done, Don. Thanks for your Service. It's OK to delay your trip down until you'e all healed up.

 

Hey Sarge,

It is not Alzheimer's, it is Parkinson's I suffer with. This project will most likely be my last, and I want it to be something other people can use and enjoy.

I also am doing this as a kind of therapy. Yes I screw up, and often, but I keep at it.

I had the remote working, and then took it apart to fit the motor in the hull, hooked it up again and it did not work, but I'll keep trying, and trying.

Thank you also for your service, and the kindness, and patience you showed me. You and others on here are a real help to those of us who want to build, create and explore, no matter what physical, or mental issues we may have.

Don

 

Don, I'm really sorry about the Parkinson's Disease. Wish there was a treatment for it.

This might help for your current dilemma.

Note that you don't have to have both the RX-18 AND the remote that you'd found - you could if you wanted to, but no point in complicating things. Just use one or the other.

It will help you a lot if you put little tags on the wires. You can use clear Scotch tape and little pieces of paper.

 

Sarge that is exactly what I needed! Thanks so very much!

I have the motor in the turret and the TC is connected and good to go. Now I have to install the recoil for the 8.8cm L/56/71 King Tiger cannon. I made up a circuit to use a camera flash for the muzzle blast as the red LED just did not do the model justice.

Hey I learned something else. The capictor on those camera flashes pack quite a charge. I'll be more careful next time.

Thanks again!

Don

 

OK Don, give it a whirl (literally! )

Don't forget to use a fuse. I suggest 1A maximum, 500mA should be more than enough.

While you are testing things, you could use a red LED with a 330 Ohm resistor connected in parallel with the fuse from the battery. That way if the fuse burns open, you'll know right away that you goofed something up. Fuses are cheap compared to burning up your boards and things.

 

Get ready to laugh! Okay I think I found the problem. I had it hooked up correctly all along. The very expensive $9 including shipping Remote Board went bad. Go figure. I should have thought about that when the relay on the Remote board would not pick up for squat. What closed the case was it works intermittent. Thik I need to upgrade.

Don

 

Sarge,

I was asked a question, that I really am not qualified to anwser. The question was: What gauge of wire should be used for a project like this? I use 22 gauge, and it seems to work just fine. However before I pass onthat information I wanted a second opinion.

Thanks

Don

 

AWG-22 stranded wire is routinely used in aircraft for circuits up to 5A.

If you're using a 1A fuse, you could go as small as AWG-26 with no problems.

 

Get ready to laugh! Okay I think I found the problem. I had it hooked up correctly all along. The very expensive $9 including shipping Remote Board went bad. Go figure. I should have thought about that when the relay on the Remote board would not pick up for squat. What closed the case was it works intermittent. Think I need to upgrade.

Hmm. Are you certain that your battery is charged up? 7.2v is actually pretty minimal for the relay to energize.

Of course, they spared every expense on the contacts for the RF remote...

 

Okay Sarge,
Just one more question. Do you ever get tired of always being right? Indeed the voltage did drop below 7 volts, and the remote would not work. Now she purrs like there is no tomarrow.

One last test is to see what kind of a drain the entire system: Motors, turret, elevation, recoil, machine gun, speaker, smoker, muzzle flash, headlights, and the new TC have on a 3000 MiAh 7.2 volt Battery. I might have to give the TC his own battery. With all that he has been through he deserves it...LOL

Don

 

I'm definitely not always right. But sometimes I make pretty good guesses.

Like I've said before, when I first found that relay, Electronic Goldmine had it listed incorrectly; it should've been shown as a 12v relay. They had it as 7v instead. That's the "must engage" voltage - but the problem you will face is trying to get the TC to activate if the battery is down a bit, or if anything else is being operated at the same time.