On the RX-18 there is a spare plug that provides power to a flash unit that I will use. But I have many places that I can tap off power. So I will use momentary voltage.

Oh and the other circuit would be great!! I love the firing circuits!!

 

Ok, the turret AZ/EL controls and fire button are attached.

The fire button gets connected to the coil of a solenoid; the solenoid ram kicked a plastic ball through the barrel of the cannon.

 

Wow! And depending on the power of the spring you could really light something up!

Great Work!!

 

And here's the circuit for your Tank Commander's motor.

[eta]
Maybe a bit more explanation is needed.

RLY1 and RLY2 are both in that same H-bridge relay I linked to earlier.
D1 through D4 are very common 1A silicon rectifier diodes. You could use any 1N400n diode;"n" = 1 to 7

When your RX-18 unit supplies a momentary voltage to one end of the coil (pin 2) on RLY1, the relay contacts toggle position;the left (positive) motor connection to ground is broken (pins 5 and 1), and the connection to 7.2v is made (pins 1 and 4). When the RX-18 stops supplying power, D3 begins conducting, which supplies power to the upper side of the relays' coil (pin 2), keeping it latched it on. The ground for the low side of the coil (pin 3) is via RLY2's pins 8 and 5 contacts.

The motor keeps running in the forward direction, the TC is turning and raising his binocs, until reed switch S2 closes, caused by a magnet getting near to it.

When S2 closes, current flows through R1 to the base of Q1, a common NPN transistor, turning it on to provide a ground path for RLY2's coil via pin 7, and RLY2 gets it's coil energized via pin 6, causing the contacts for RLY2 to toggle (pins 8 to 5 break, pins 8 to 4 make); the negative side of the motor is now connected to +7.2v instead of ground.

This also breaks the ground path for the coil of RLY1, so it's contacts toggle positions again so that the positive side of the motor is connected to ground, and D3 stops conducting (pins 1-4 break, pins 1-5 make).

The motor is now running in reverse, and the TC is lowering his binocs. S2 opens, and D4 starts conducting to supply current to RLY2's coil.

As the motor keeps turning, eventually the magnet trips reed switch S3, closing it. This shorts the base of Q1 to ground, turning it off.

Since Q1 is no longer conducting, the coil of RLY2 no longer has a path to ground, so RLY2's contacts return to normal (8-4 breaks, 8-5 makes); both sides of the motor are connected to ground, which causes the motor to rapidly brake to a stop.

Clear as mud?

[eta]
Updated schematic to add pin numbers for the EP2R-B3G1 H-bridge relay; it's a 2-in-1 unit.
[eta]
Added pins into the operating description

 

Wow Sarge,

Indeed you are a pro. Okay now to build it. Ordering parts now. This will be awsome! Can never thank you enough. Hey when my new novel TIGER! comes out, I'll get you a copy!

Best

Don

Oh and I'll need some hand holding on this first one.

 

Hey Sarge I have everything except Q1. What is Q1?

Thanks Friend!

Don

 

Hey Sarge I have everything except Q1. What is Q1?

Q1 is normally the first question that's asked.

Just kiddin'... Q1 is a very common NPN transistor, a 2N2222.
A PN2222 or MPS2222 can also be used (basically the same thing), as well as a number of others - but your local Radio Shack store carries 2N2222 transistors.

There are three RS stores in Charleston.
This assortment of NPN transistors has 5 x2222 in it:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062586
It also has five 2N3904 and five 2N4401 transistors.
The 2222-type transistors can sink up to about 500mA; rated for 800.
The 4401-type transistors can sink up to around 400mA; rated for 600
The 3904's are good for up to around 100mA; rated for 200.
You'll only need the 2222's for this project, but it's good to have spares.

If you want to get some PNP types (used when sourcing instead of sinking current) they have this assortment:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062585
It's labeled as being 15 PNP transistors of type 3906, but you get five each of three different types:
2N2907 - Like the 2222, but PNP
2N4403 - Like the 4401, but PNP
2N3906 - Like the 3094, but PNP

They also have two-packs of just the 2N2222 - but for the price, you may as well get 15 instead of 2.

Oh, they also have assortments of 1N4001-type diodes in a 15-pack.

 

Thanks again forthe help! It's a good thing my wife is manager of one ofthe Radio Shacks. Really she is! I just give her a list and when she gets home I get to play!

Oh and this little project has the model tank commuity going nuts!! Could not have done it without your help!


Don

 

LOL!

Did you order any spares of those little motors? Those might come in handy for lots of other projects.

Hope you got more than one of the relays. I think those things are pretty cool.

 

I sure did! I also got another idea to add to this one!

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102855

So the little guy turns his head and starts talking. Just need to figure out how to get the two together.

Thanks again!!

Don

 

I sure did! I also got another idea to add to this one!

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102855

So the little guy turns his head and starts talking. Just need to figure out how to get the two together.

Don,
This could get ridiculous.

I don't know if you can get what I've submitted already working, much less voice added to it.

What you're considering COULD be done with a microcontroller.

That would've been a better starting approach, but your learning curve would have been very, very steep.

The circuit I presented will do just about what you set out to do; rotate the TC to one side, raise the TC's arm, etc, ad infinitum.

You have to "take the dot" at some point.

 

Hey Sarge,

I had this one figured out long ago, just needed an extra switch. Check it out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFmFzx03WZc

 

Hey Sarge!

Hope you had a great Xmas!

I have all the parts in hand. Now I have the relay. I see on the bottom of it 8 pins. How are these numbered?

Thanks Friend!!

Don

 

Hey Sarge!

Hope you had a great Xmas!

You too, Don!

I have all the parts in hand. Now I have the relay. I see on the bottom of it 8 pins. How are these numbered?

Here's the datasheet:
http://home.comcast.net/~homebuiltrovs/howtos/controloptions/DataSheet_EP2R_B3G1.pdf
The pin layout is on the last page of the datasheet.

It's pretty much self-explanatory, but if you don't understand it, ask for a better explanation.

 

I sure do thak you for all the help Sarge!!

I'll send you a video of the finished project!

Don

 

Post a link to it here

 

Hey Sarge,

I have it working! Now to make a PCB. Could you check my work? Never made one of these before and I want to be sure it is correct. New skills are great! Also a video of my new moving tank commander.

Thanks Sarge!

Don

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R9p2BNkttm8

 

Well, you're kind of cramped for space, right?

I was thinking something more like this:

The board is about 1-3/4" square (just a tad taller than that)

 

Sarge,

I've worked four nights in a row learning FreePCB, and comig up with that...LOL.

Yep you again nailed it. Now how would I take your layout and Xfer it to my press and peel. I have all the stuff ready to go.

How strong a magnet would your recommend for the reed switches? I am using basically refirgerator magnets. Seems it takes a bit longer for them to switch.

Thanks again for all the wonderful help. I might be about two or more weeks until I can test the thing. Looks like I have to go to the depot for some work on the ticker.

Best

Don

 

Press and peel?

I don't know how that method works.
[eta]
Oh, Ok - just print the 2nd .PDF file on your press and peel stuff, and you're ready to make a board. Sorry it's in the center.

I did the layout in Cadsoft Eagle v4.16r2. I can give you the schematic and board layout in a format you can load using a freeware downloadable version.

I also added on a couple of Adobe .PDF files that you can print on your printer. Don't scale the output; print it with auto rotate and center, but for scaling select "None"

[eta]
Removed attachments; they were incorrect.