Locomotive electronics & switching

Thread Starter

mrpotatohead14

Joined Dec 15, 2014
10
Hello everyone
Please can you help I am an absolute beginner when it comes to electronics. I am about to venture off building what in essence is a ride on electric locomotive. But no one other than a mannequin will be riding on it and it will be very simple in design and will traverse up and down a straight length of track, it will be driven by an electric 12v motor and powered by a 12v car battery but my problem is I need to stop it at each end of the track and send it off in the opposite direction. so it just goes backwards then forwards, I have preconceived ideas of two motors and limit switches can anyone put me straight
Any help will be greatly appreciated
Thank you
 

Dodgydave

Joined Jun 22, 2012
11,306
just put a couple of two way switches at each end of the track, then when the train hits the switch it reverses the battery connection using a DPDT relay, and the train runs in the other direction.
 
Last edited:

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,698
I would think you need a little deceleration if there is any kind of weight or significant load on the motor. Especially if there is physical end stop (buffers)?
Also a pause instead of instant reversal, which will certainly drain the battery.
A couple of ways would be either to place a pre stop switch and go into a decel rate, alternatively let it coast, if precise stop is not needed, Do you have the motor yet?
Max.
 

Thread Starter

mrpotatohead14

Joined Dec 15, 2014
10
I would think you need a little deceleration if there is any kind of weight or significant load on the motor. Especially if there is physical end stop (buffers)?
Also a pause instead of instant reversal, which will certainly drain the battery.
A couple of ways would be either to place a pre stop switch and go into a decel rate, alternatively let it coast, if precise stop is not needed, Do you have the motor yet?
Max.
No I have not chosen one yet
 

Dodgydave

Joined Jun 22, 2012
11,306
If the battery is on the loco with the motor, then use one two way slide switch under the loco, and a block at each end of the track ,so when the train hits the block it pushes the switch and reverses.
 

Thread Starter

mrpotatohead14

Joined Dec 15, 2014
10
If the battery is on the loco with the motor, then use one two way slide switch under the loco, and a block at each end of the track ,so when the train hits the block it pushes the switch and reverses.
sounds good I will start to look for slide switches on the net I am extremely greatful I can not believe how helpful you all are
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,698
So you probably require decel and no instant reversal, or some way of a brief pause before reversing would be in order?
Instant reversal will shorten the charge life and reduce the ability for continuous service, and if the traverse length is short, could overheat the motor.
Max.
 

Thread Starter

mrpotatohead14

Joined Dec 15, 2014
10
thanks max I will have to have a read back through all this and make notes my brain is fried ! you guys are fantastic the one thing I can say is that the locos I have looked at seemed to have a 130w 12v motor mounted in the wheel bogies driving Delrin gears
thanks Sir !
 

Thread Starter

mrpotatohead14

Joined Dec 15, 2014
10
So you probably require decel and no instant reversal, or some way of a brief pause before reversing would be in order?
Instant reversal will shorten the charge life and reduce the ability for continuous service, and if the traverse length is short, could overheat the motor.
Max.
think traverse was about 10m 30 feet imperial !
 

tcmtech

Joined Nov 4, 2013
2,867
I think the truck winch system would be total overkill. At walking speed carrying ~100 Kg any off the shelf or salvaged electric bike or kids scooter motor would be more than sufficient once the gearing was set up right.

Also if it used a 24 or 36 volt motor rated for a normal 250 - 300+ watts running at a 12 volt input it would have no problems at all doing a full reverse under load. If it was a concern a good .2 - .5 ohm 50 w power resistor in series with the motor would drastically reduce the peak amp draw when reversing occurs.

Switch wise at those low of voltages and power levels most any heavy duty DPDT toggle or similar switch would work just fine. If it was me I would be looking at the local hardware store at a 20+ amp rated four way lighting switch being one of those is basically a DPDT switch in a four wire design already set up to reverse input to output polarity when flipped.
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,698
I can get one of the smaller 12v bumper winches from a local supplier with a P.M. motor and 153:1 planetary reduction for CAN$70.00. it is more than adequate, but the current is only going to be whatever the load demands which should be much less than it is capable of, also any switch or relay you get, make sure it is DC inductive load rated, or the contact life will be extremely short.
Max.
 

Thread Starter

mrpotatohead14

Joined Dec 15, 2014
10
I think the truck winch system would be total overkill. At walking speed carrying ~100 Kg any off the shelf or salvaged electric bike or kids scooter motor would be more than sufficient once the gearing was set up right.

Also if it used a 24 or 36 volt motor rated for a normal 250 - 300+ watts running at a 12 volt input it would have no problems at all doing a full reverse under load. If it was a concern a good .2 - .5 ohm 50 w power resistor in series with the motor would drastically reduce the peak amp draw when reversing occurs.

Switch wise at those low of voltages and power levels most any heavy duty DPDT toggle or similar switch would work just fine. If it was me I would be looking at the local hardware store at a 20+ amp rated four way lighting switch being one of those is basically a DPDT switch in a four wire design already set up to reverse input to output polarity whelk
I think the truck winch system would be total overkill. At walking speed carrying ~100 Kg any off the shelf or salvaged electric bike or kids scooter motor would be more than sufficient once the gearing was set up right.

Also if it used a 24 or 36 volt motor rated for a normal 250 - 300+ watts running at a 12 volt input it would have no problems at all doing a full reverse under load. If it was a concern a good .2 - .5 ohm 50 w power resistor in series with the motor would drastically reduce the peak amp draw when reversing occurs.

Switch wise at those low of voltages and power levels most any heavy duty DPDT toggle or similar switch would work just fine. If it was me I would be looking at the local hardware store at a 20+ amp rated four way lighting switch being one of those is basically a DPDT switch in a four wire design already set up to reverse input to output polarity when flipped.
I think the truck winch system would be total overkill. At walking speed carrying ~100 Kg any off the shelf or salvaged electric bike or kids scooter motor would be more than sufficient once the gearing was set up right.

Also if it used a 24 or 36 volt motor rated for a normal 250 - 300+ watts running at a 12 volt input it would have no problems at all doing a full reverse under load. If it was a concern a good .2 - .5 ohm 50 w power resistor in series with the motor would drastically reduce the peak amp draw when reversing occurs.

Switch wise at those low of voltages and power levels most any heavy duty DPDT toggle or similar switch would work just fine. If it was me I would be looking at the local hardware store at a 20+ amp rated four way lighting switch being one of those is basically a DPDT switch in a four wire design already set up to reverse input to output polarity when flipped.
Thank you for your help up to now !
 
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