Did I hear you right that you have a reasonable amount of room where you could hide a subwoofer and/or an audio amp? If so, I'd say your sound system part of the project is pretty well taken care of. We'll have to figure out how to control it to two volume levels.

Here's my thinking (rambling) of where we are now. Subject to clarification and change.

Audio system
Power source: Mains power or largish battery plus inverter.
Audio source: iPod or such with headphone or line-out capability. (Will need AC power adapter to power this.)
Audio amp: Subwoofer with built-in amplifier or hifi amp and shaker and/or subwoofer.
Control: Not yet resolved. Need off, 1/2 volume and full volume in response to motion sensors.

Light system
Power source: Mains power or largish battery plus inverter.
Light source: ?
Control: Not yet resolved. Need off, 1/2 volume and full brightness in response to motion sensors. May be DC or AC.

Sensors
Motion detectors or ultrasonic rangefinders. Motion detectors you find at the hardware store are built to switch AC loads, possibly up to enough to power this project. There are also motion detectors that can be used in DC projects.

 

To control LED's it might be necessary to hack the lights. Guessing the LED - R 16-18V @ 600 mA, G 24-28V @ 600 mA, B 24-28V @ 600mA. Each color about 16W, all on at same time = 48W. There may be a SMPS constant current with 3 outputs, or 3 separate supplies.
If it is desired to only have one color on at a time then might need only one dimming circuit on one current supply. If using PWM for dimming from a constant current supply it may be advisable to switch output from LED to a fixed load of about 28 ohms to keep PS from jumping to full V at every part of off cycle. ???
A random three output pulse generator could control the light sequencing.
Another possibility if sequential distance sensing does not work out, a single IR motion detector could trip sound-light level circuit which would increase levels from off or low to full on over 6 seconds, about time it takes to walk 30 ft.

 

Here is a rough outline of a dimming- color changing circuit. Circuit posted is for one fixture. All fixtures could share PWM & Random color changing. PWM signal could be filtered to give an analog V for sound level control.

 

[QUOTE="Bernard, post: 917972, member: 27040"]Here is a rough outline of a dimming- color changing circuit. Circuit posted is for one fixture. All fixtures could share PWM & Random color changing. PWM signal could be filtered to give an analog V for sound level control.View attachment 93965[/QUOTE]

Here is a rough outline of a dimming- color changing circuit. Circuit posted is for one fixture. All fixtures could share PWM & Random color changing. PWM signal could be filtered to give an analog V for sound level control.View attachment 93965

Hi Thanks for the help,i,m thinking that i will probably only use one colour,and as suggested i can get different lights if it will help makes it simpler.

 

Have you tried illuminating the art work with present lights.
Should be able to modify present lights for just one color.
Found single color light @ SP security cameras Inc.

 

Have you tried illuminating the art work with present lights.
Should be able to modify present lights for just one color.
Found single color light @ SP security cameras Inc.

Hi yes i can use maybe 2-3 300 watt security lights that would be really bright and i can put a color filter on them,better idea,less bulk,more power and easier to install i can keep my other lights for their intended purpose too!
Thanks.

 

Are these 300W lights LED's?

 

Are these 300W lights LED's?

Yes same/similar type as the color changing,they show them on the place you mentioned and i have checked availability here too,i wasn't aware they made them that powerfull before.

 

Could not find your light. If at all possible, buy lights that have PWM dimming. LED drivers are available with dimming in the range of wattages
that you desire, like Mean Well HLG series.

 

Could not find your light. If at all possible, buy lights that have PWM dimming. LED drivers are available with dimming in the range of wattages
that you desire, like Mean Well HLG series.

Sp security cameras under led flood lights do a 320watt and a 200watt i saw a 300 on [beam led store uk] though i cant see if it has pwm dimming i,m guessing it would be best contact the supplier,though i would imagine security lights are just meant to come on brightly so i,m thinking they probably wouldn,t have it.Can you recommend a light that you know would be suitable?

 

I finally found SP Security Cameras 200W OPC HBL 450D, 17,ooo L using Mean Well non dimmable driver, but M-W makes dimmable drivers
, but the best that I could find in 12V out is HLG-185 H-B-12, 3 way dimming, but is only 157W. Might have to talk to suppliers.

 

The specs. on a PIR sensor from UNIFORE Model DG85 or Alibaba Model DG85 look about right, but I cannot vouch for quality, saw one negative comment on UNIFORE.

 

Sorry, I mis-spoke. The Mean Well LED 3 option dimming driver HLG series goes up to 264W @ 12V, 320W up to 54V out.
HLG-185H-12B; 13A, 192W ; HLG-240H-12B, ; HLG-320H-12B, 264W @ 12V, 22A. Should cover any fixture desired.
Dimming starts at 10% but M-W shows how to over ride
I maybe nuts but it seems that a color filter would waste a lot of light. If 16W of color worked, does it really need 600W of white?

 

I finally found SP Security Cameras 200W OPC HBL 450D, 17,ooo L using Mean Well non dimmable driver, but M-W makes dimmable drivers
, but the best that I could find in 12V out is HLG-185 H-B-12, 3 way dimming, but is only 157W. Might have to talk to suppliers.

 

Hi Bernard the lights were looking for want to be 240 volt some you mentioned were 12 volt as we will be running from mains.
Yes i don't have any specific power requirements for lights i was just thinking the brighter the better and i don,t have to use a color filter so we can just get the most suitable and get a few of them this project will be an experiment so anything goes and alterations can be made afterwards.Does http://www.beamled.com/ have anything similar as they are in the uk i find the spec hard to understand.
Can i get the pwr sensor from www.tlc-direct.co.uk at all?

 

All of the Mean Well LED drivers mentioned take an input AC line V of 90 to 305V. Different models cover DC output V of 12 to 54V.
Distributers of LED flood lights seldom give specs on the LEDs used including Biard 100W. Seem some start at 12V & up.
Might give Biard a call & see what they can do.
I am thinking that an independent PIR(s) would be easier to install.
Any thoughts on single 30 ft . radius detector to start light & sound ramp-up??

 

All of the Mean Well LED drivers mentioned take an input AC line V of 90 to 305V. Different models cover DC output V of 12 to 54V.
Distributers of LED flood lights seldom give specs on the LEDs used including Biard 100W. Seem some start at 12V & up.
Might give Biard a call & see what they can do.
I am thinking that an independent PIR(s) would be easier to install.
Any thoughts on single 30 ft . radius detector to start light & sound ramp-up??

Hi the plan with the system is to have the lights and sound to activate on a low level and as you move forward towards it they increase, i,m not sure exactly how the PIR works but i,m guessing you would need another one to bump up volume/lighting closer to the system as you approach?If it means setting out hidden cables away from the the sculpture then that would be ok.I see that some PIR sensors will detect from 12 meters which is far enough away so i,m guessing that,s not necessary.It would be good if as you approach and and then turn to go away it just goes off,so maybe a 2 -3 second delay and if the second sensor isn't activated it just goes off[not sure if the sensor constantly monitors activity or is just activated the once when triggered].

 

I see a 360 degree outdoor pir sensor is available do you think this would be good for this application as it wouldn't limit the viewing to 180 degrees? I see that wireless pir sensors are also available though i don't think that would be of any real benefit due to distances required.

 

What is the harm if a person enters the zone then departs, the show goes on & maybe the person will be re attracted & watch.
Keep it as simple as possible.
How large is the sculpture ?
I believe 360 deg. is a ceiling mount PIR detector; do you have a tall pole ?

 

What is the harm if a person enters the zone then departs, the show goes on & maybe the person will be re attracted & watch.
Keep it as simple as possible.
How large is the sculpture ?
I believe 360 deg. is a ceiling mount PIR detector; do you have a tall pole ?

Hi Bernard yes i guess so the simpler the better.I haven't considered the height of any of the sensors but yes a pole could be used or incorporated into the sculpture,would the standard 180 degree need to be elevated.I,m guessing they would both work relatively low down but maybe not so reactive.I,m sure there will be a certain amount of trial and error in the setting up.
I,m thinking the sculpture would use the approximate space of 2 meters cubic.