Those Outrunner motors are pretty trouble free I found it is usually the 3ph controller that goes.
Max.

 

It is not my own. It belongs to a co-worker. He asked me to look at the board and see what is wrong. I told him. I am with you though #12. Experience tells me that something else blew this fuse. Is it on the board or on the machine. I will try to determine that before he replaces the board. The schematic on the machine does not show the fuse so I am left in a quandry. I do have a friend who used to work for LG so I will give him a call and see what he knows. I will post the end result if I find out.

 

I have this control board from an LG washing machine and the main fuse is open...

Do you still have the LG washing machine control board with an open fuse? The bare board appears to be the same as the one in my LG WM3988HWA combo-washer dryer, except that the dryer-related component positions are not populated. If you were unable to get the board going, I would be interested in buying if from the owner for experimental/spare parts use.

One of my current projects involves building an Arduino interface for the washer-dryer to add custom wash-dry cycles and other features, including grid and household electric load-shedding capabilities. LG has released component-level schematics for their top-load washing machine PCBs, but not for the front-load machines as far as I can tell. I need some non-working LG circuit boards to tear-apart to experiment with and draw my own component-level schematics.

 

Hello,
I do have the board still but we may be removing the fuse and replacing it and then finding the cause on the machine. Still waiting to hear from customer as to what route he wants to go. If he decides to let the board go, I will keep you in mind.

 

we may be removing the fuse and replacing it and then finding the cause on the machine.

Good luck with the repairs. I may be able to help you with that.

What is the part number of the PCB and the model number of the washing machine? The part number of the PCB is likely the number ending with 323 on the yellow label on the blue capacitor above the fuse in your picture. The model number of the machine likely starts with WM or WD and could be on the front of the machine or inside the door, or on the back of the machine.

Another part number of interest is the bare PCB part number. This is on the silkscreen near the LG logo on the upper left edge of your picture of the PCB. The bare PCB part number probably starts with EAX.

If you can provide these numbers, I can probably dig up:
1) Wiring diagrams for the machine.
2) Detailed diagnostic tips, including which front panel buttons to push to put the machine into various diagnostic modes.
3) Semiconductor manufacturers' spec sheets with pinouts for ICs used on the PCB, including the control IC used in the switchmode power supply and the IGBT inverter bridge IC that powers the Direct Drive motor.
4) Hand-drawn component-level schematic for parts of the PCB.

Richard

 

Bwilliams60 what was the verdict on this? My ceramic fuse is blown on mine to. Any success on replacing it?

See image:

 

I think I have the same LG Board 6871ER1062D and was wondering if anyone knows the amperage rating of the fuse that is potted on that board. I had a motor that was hard to spin due to a drum issue and the fuse blew due to excessive amp draw. I now have the drum and motor spinning freely and need to replace the fuse but cant read the amp rating.

 

I think I have the same LG Board 6871ER1062D and was wondering if anyone knows the amperage rating of the fuse that is potted on that board. I had a motor that was hard to spin due to a drum issue and the fuse blew due to excessive amp draw. I now have the drum and motor spinning freely and need to replace the fuse but cant read the amp rating.

Just dug it out of the silicone. If anyone needs to know it is a 15 AMP 250V

 

Just dug it out of the silicone. If anyone needs to know it is a 15 AMP 250V

There are usually two to five additional letters/numbers in the fuse to let you know the physical dimensions, fast or slow blow, etc.

 

Just dug it out of the silicone. If anyone needs to know it is a 15 AMP 250V

I am having the exact same problem and i would LOVE to know how it went! Did you replace the fuse?

 

Unusual for C.C. to be 1/2" thick?
It is not toxic once set, unless you light it!
The remover gives off a little fumes or odour.
You would not need to remove it all though.
Max.

Could you help me with my electrolyte capacitor missing on my control board for a GE washing washing

 

Could you help me with my electrolyte capacitor missing on my control board for a GE washing washing

Photos and more detail, please.

 

Hello my LG fully automatic washing machine shows OE error, i have cleaned all the drain motor etc, when we switch on the tub just shakes little and it continues even if we press the power switch on the machine , can anyon etell me what will be the fault like?

 

I think I have the same LG Board 6871ER1062D and was wondering if anyone knows the amperage rating of the fuse that is potted on that board. I had a motor that was hard to spin due to a drum issue and the fuse blew due to excessive amp draw. I now have the drum and motor spinning freely and need to replace the fuse but cant read the amp rating.

I know this post was a long time ago..

But I'm helping a buddy with his washer and I see his fast blow drawing fuse is blown (tested with meter)

Strangely . I see the board itself is printed 240v 15amp

Yet the fuse that is installed is a 12amp 240v. (he bought new.. Not 2nd hand) and it is only a year old . Just out of warranty. He lives by himself and barely uses the thing.

Almost makes me think this was intentional from LG..

Anyway..I picked up a 240v 15amo fuse from home depot tonight.. (fast blow.. Microwave ABC silica filled drawing fuse).

I do have a question..what was the reason your drum was difficult to spin.. Causing the amperage spike to blow your fuse?

 

Here is the replacement fuse.. Same size as well.

Edit to last post.. I meant 250v when referring to the fuse voltage spec . Not 240v.


I will either remove as much potting epoxy as I can . And see if I can install this.

Or snip the terminals, solder longer legs onto them and have this fuse raised up above the old location .

Or the laziest option . . Solder this right across the top of the old fuse haha

Not sure if cutting the epoxy with Xacto blade.. Or using my mini heat gun pen to see how this resin reacts to the heat will be the best approach

 

Figured I'd update incase anyone else wanted to see pics on how this can be achieved. Do this at your own risk.

I didn't have time to buy/wait for a pcb mount cartridge fuse holder, so I ended up just fabricating its own terminals/legs with some 18ga copper solid wire . Wrapping it tightly around the fuse then solder.

I did end up having to cut a small access hole on the backside of the board cradle. Heated a razor Blade up and slowly went along allowing it to "sink through" the plastic cradle.

I set the height of the fuse a little higher than before for ease of servicing in the future.

I then "stitched" the access hole patch back across with the iron.

Actually wasn't too bad of a job.. And the potting compound wasnt too difficult to remove either... Just take your time and don't go crazy. Hint... Similar method to how I cut the access hole. Just be mindful of the depth..

Not sure why LG didn't incorporate an auto resetting thermal fuse for protection instead of this "non replaceable" cartridge type.

 

Hi Shawn,

I was wondering if you got your washer working after replacing the fuse, and how has it been working since?

Figured I'd update incase anyone else wanted to see pics on how this can be achieved. Do this at your own risk.

I didn't have time to buy/wait for a pcb mount cartridge fuse holder, so I ended up just fabricating its own terminals/legs with some 18ga copper solid wire . Wrapping it tightly around the fuse then solder.

I did end up having to cut a small access hole on the backside of the board cradle. Heated a razor Blade up and slowly went along allowing it to "sink through" the plastic cradle.

I set the height of the fuse a little higher than before for ease of servicing in the future.

I then "stitched" the access hole patch back across with the iron.

Actually wasn't too bad of a job.. And the potting compound wasnt too difficult to remove either... Just take your time and don't go crazy. Hint... Similar method to how I cut the access hole. Just be mindful of the depth..

Not sure why LG didn't incorporate an auto resetting thermal fuse for protection instead of this "non replaceable" cartridge type.

 

Hello my LG fully automatic washing machine shows OE error, i have cleaned all the drain motor etc, when we switch on the tub just shakes little and it continues even if we press the power switch on the machine , can anyon etell me what will be the fault like?

you have a failed water pump relay. this occurred on two of the LG top loading washers.. The Wt1101 and the wt5001. They both have different pcb's but same problem..

For those who have posted above about removal of the C.C. The best and most effective method i have found is to use a soldering iron with a flad blade type tip. Slice through the Silicone layer, then gently ease the blade tip to the surface of the board and scoop up the silicone like shoveling snow. You will then need to follow up with a plastic brush to remove any crumbs..

As far as how goes repairs to this board - I cant say yet. I just accomplished getting the old relays off of the first (wt1101) board. Will solder on replacements and see.

As far as the tub jiggling.. the secong machine i am working on is doing this too. I am tempted to say it is the cat hall sensor. I have seen the same symptoms in a direct drive kenmore washer...