You need more filtering. Remember the diagram I posted, with a resistor separating each unit from the power supply? Make that modification to the problem timer only, and be sure you have a 220µF on the 555 side of the circuit.

The RC time constant will tend to absorb the spikes. There are other kinds of filters you can use if this doesn't work, but likely it will.

 

Bill,
All timers up and running. Thanks Bill

 

I like a happy endings...

Is it possible for you to post a picture of the finnished product?

 

Thank you.

 

Yes I'll post pix asap when I get back to Uncle bucks BBQ's I had to get timers back for his use! And Bill all the folks thanked both of us for the Timers and everyone at AAC Jim

 

Here are the finish pix of cooking timers.
http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25265&d=1291889957

 

Nice!

Good job!

 

I finally mailed the package this morning. I put $50 insurance on it, my way of keeping the post office honest. Expect it around the 10th.

 

Thanks Bill I'll be waiting!

 

Wow was that fast got it in tdys. mail. What a beautiful job Bill! Thank you so very much. I was going through all the posts tdy and I was wondering if we are still using post # 24 LED Array it looks like so. Am I correct? Thanks Jim PS . I'm sitting here right now soldering on the sockets and I will be using machine pin from now on Thanks Again

 

Yes, the resistors are on the board. The silkscreen on the PCB is not very readable, so be sure to print out the layout.

First time you've seen machine pin sockets? You can also buy them in single row format, cut them to size (length), and still use them for Dual Inline Pins.

 

Ok, I'm soldering parts on the PCB and I get to C8 only one prob. I can't find the value on anything, (schematic,silkscreen,or anywhere) must have been an add on I am unaware of. From the size of it I would guess a 220μF or 470μF but I'm not sure. I think now is a good time to ask! lol PS Can I substitute 1/2 watt resistors for 1/4 watt resistors of the same value?
Thanks Jim

 

Look at the PCB thread, it has the layout with clearer text on it. The schematic cross matches that. Frankly I over heated the silk screen side, and the toner smeared a bit.

 

Hi guys,
I got the Sequential Fader Circuit up and running but I have a problem with the way the LEDs are turning on. The red is OK but when it is suppose to go to white both white and blue come on. I triple checked all my soldering to make sure I didn't spread lead where it dosn't belong. I've attched pix. Could it be one of the IC's? also the red stays on for 9 secs. the white and blue stay on for 9 secs. then come back on for another 9 secs. it does seem like the white and blue are tied together somehow.Here is the schematic for the project HELP Thanks Jim
http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showpost.php?p=312703&postcount=44

 

Your link doesn't work but I found the thread in your profile.
The thread has 111 posts. Which post has the schematic?
Why didn't you post its schematic here?

 

This should have been part of the original thread, where the information was.

Led fading circuit

Perhaps a kind moderator could merge them while this one is still small?

I'll respond after this happens.

 

Hello Bill_Marsden,

I merged the two thread, as they seem indeed a continuation of each other.

Bertus

 

I just posted a reply, but it doesn't seem to be displayed. Actually, I did it twice, there are two invisible posts on this thread for some reason. However, I tacked my reply on this post and it took. To the moderators, note the attachment is not directly visible.

Not sure, but I think I see a flaw in the PCB, a short. I love hi res images for inspection, works better than my eyes.

It may (or not) have taken out the AND gates. Try slicing it with a sharp knife or exacto blade and see.

Look for other possible shorts.

 

Bill,
Good eyes you did find the problem! Circuit up and running. I went over that circuit looking at my solder work over and over with Mag. Head gear on and missed that one. Now to mount all the LEDs assmb. frame and stand then mount the PCB in stand. I'll post Pix when its complete. Thanks Jim

 

Cool. I had done an inspection with my hi res images. I'm going to get a micro lens for my digital camera eventually.

I really can see the flaws better in picture format though.

One last thing, get some high purity 97% isopropyl, and clean that flux off the bottom of the board. Be careful not to get the silk screen too wet. I usually use a basting brush to scrub it off. It will help prevent corrosion later.