Thanks Guys,
Bill power supply can vary I will purchase a wall wart right now I'm using a 9V batt.eleminator but whatever you think for this circuit, I was using your circuit from ch.12 on throbbing leds and 8 sec. looks good (approx.)The LEDs (16 each)I'm getting from BG 3mm LEDs, part #s red-led1158,white-led1155,blue-1156. Thanks Jim
P.S. Ron thanks for the info!

 

I would put 12V as a minimum voltage, and it needs regulated. Efficiency is extremely high, it will use very little juice for the amount of light (120ma, 1.5W). If you get a higher voltage regulating them is simple. Let us know.

 

Wow Bill,
Great schematic I'm wondering if you are going to post a shopping list (PLEASE) because I am not familiar with a lot of these parts and whatever else you can do to help me with this project and I do realize how busy you are so whenever you can Thanks Jim

 

OK, but this project is definitely in the intermediate category (as in not beginner).

Parts List

Qty 2 ..7555 CMOS ICs, U1, U5 *
Qty 1 ..LM393 Comparator IC, U2
Qty 1 ..CD4017 CMOS IC, U3
Qty 1 ..CD4081 CMOS IC, U4
Qty 16 .Red LEDs, D1-16
Qty 16 .White LEDs, D17-32
Qty 16 .Blue LEDs, D33-48
Qty 3 ..IRF510 nMOSFET, Q1-3 *
Qty 1 ..100µF Capacitor, C1 *
Qty 1 ..0.01µF Capacitor, C2 *
Qty 5 ..0.1µF Capacitors, C3-7 *
Qty 1 ..100KΩ 10 turn PCB Potentiometer, R23
Qty 5 ..100Ω 5% ¼W Resistor, R1, R7-10
Qty 1 ..10KΩ 5% ¼W Resistor, R2
Qty 1 ..100KΩ 5% ¼W Resistor, R3
Qty 3 ..47Ω 5% ¼W Resistor, R4-6
Qty 8 ..68Ω 5% ¼W Resistor, R11-14, R17-20
Qty 4 ..240Ω 5% ¼W Resistor, R15, R16, R21, R22

* Available from Radio Shack

Q1-3 are not critical, which is good, given that the IR510 is among the worst examples of a really good component there is. I thought seriously about using standard BJT parts, such as the 2N2222A.

Many of these parts are not that critical. If you have a question, ask. The TLC555s you bought are good examples.

 

By the way, a lot of the parts are ESD sensitive. I would suggest this article as required reading.

ElectroStatic Discharge

MOSFET stands for Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor.

Q1-3, U1, U2, U4, U5 are all extremely ESD sensitive, as is U3 to some extent.

 

I have a few electronic circuit board programs such as Express Schematic/expressPCB,LT Spice IV, or Tina . Can I take the schematic Bill M. did and load it in one of these programs to get a circuit board layout?
Thanks Jim

 

Sorry, unless you are willing to redraw it my format is a simple drawing, unlike Ron's. It is possible one of the other members might help you out.

Given the LED banks are all outside the PCB it will be easier than the schematic implies.

 

Major problem, you have -12VDC where it should be +12VDC. Instant smoke.

The center wiper of the pot doesn't appear to be connected.

Have you every used "Print Screen"? It is a key above "insert" and "delete" on your keyboard. It will take a screen shot of the entire screen, can copy it to a blank screen using MS Paint. It is very useful for many applications, and is perfect for this one. "CTRL" + C will also copy, and "CTRL" + V will paste (you can use the paste function on M/S Paint. I would use the .png format.

Looks like you are going ahead of me on that one.

 

The LEDs are connected backwards.

 

You still have Vcc at -12V. It needs to be +12V. Otherwise, you will let the magic smoke out of many of the parts.

 

OK, I found I think what I need Hows this look

All those little arrows labeled -12V are supposed to be GND (ground) symbols, like you had them originally.
When you have a +12V supply, the negative terminal is labeled ground, not -12V. I suspect this is the source of your confusion.

 

If you leave those breaks where the traces cross, your circuit won't work. Express PCB will interpret them literally. See attachment.

 

Brozizds, could you upload your schematic file please?

 

OK hope this is the last One! lol. Bill I've Been posting schematic in GIF have you seen Rons replies? Do you need it in another format ? If so let me know . Thanks Jim P.S. Ron I did change those breaks but uploaded the wrong one before sorry!

 

Hello,

Would the PWM be more stable when the resistor R3 (at the output of the 393) is reduced from 100K to 4K7?
This would give a harder switching of the comparator.

Bertus

 

I believe it will be stable in any case. I didn't want too much current, as it would slow it down (I'm thinking in the 10ma range). But the main reason I changed the part to that is to bring the current down as far as possible. It could be almost anything, the norm is 10KΩ from what I've seen. Since it is feeding CMOS gates and nothing else it really doesn't matter IMO.

Brozizds, I'm redrawing the schematic, I was asking for the source file. I'm trying to follow along behind you, since I've got my personal PCB fabrication down from the print level. I've already redrawn the 555 to something I like a bit more.

 

Bill, I think your MOSFET is IRF510. I couldn't find IR510.

 

Are you referring to finding the IR510 on the CAD program? Many parts are interchangeable, I'll see if I can find one in the list. I only picked the IR510 since Radio Shack carried them.

***********

OK, minor parts SNAFU, IRF510

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062618

 

BTW, you do not need the LEDs on your schematic if this is for the PCB. I'd put the resistors there going to a pad to connect the LED chains, but not the LEDs themselves. They will not be on the board after all.

 

Correct Bill I only placed the leds on the schematic for you to look at the hook ups. Thanks Jim Is the rest of it OK I picked up my shopping list parts. Oh and you did show the IRF510 to the left of U2a and U2b in the blowup