Learn about soldering

dl324

Joined Mar 30, 2015
16,788
The technique used for soldering the LED is poor, as indicated by the "blobs" of solder on both leads. It isn't necessary to apply solder to the tip of the iron before soldering each connection. If the tip is tinned and clean, it isn't difficult to get the lead and pad hot enough to apply solder.

When soldering the LED, he should have applied the solder to the pad or lead, not the blob of solder on the iron.

The first joint is probably cold because he allowed the lead to jiggle while the solder was still molten.
 

Thread Starter

SimplyElectronics

Joined Jul 14, 2016
16
You're quite right dl324.

It's bloody difficult doing it looking through a camera screen! But the feedback is appreciated.

That wobble really annoyed me quite frankly :/ I might redo this video.

As for applying solder to the iron each time, it isn't necessary, but we all have our preferences. And people will pick up their own preferred way of doing it.
 

dl324

Joined Mar 30, 2015
16,788
I might redo this video
You may also want to change how you determine whether the joint is good. Shiny isn't necessarily good. I can put a blob of shiny solder on a non-conductive surface. Lead free solder won't be shiny. The important factor is proper wetting and a concave joint; convex indicates too much solder.

You're in the UE. I thought leaded solder would be banned and difficult to get. I bought a lifetime supply of 63/37 solder when they came up with that nonsense. It had been researched decades earlier that adding lead to tin solder prevented the formation of whiskers. The EU regulators had their hearts in the right place, but their heads were somewhere else...

If you redo, I'll review again.
 

Thread Starter

SimplyElectronics

Joined Jul 14, 2016
16
Thanks my friend.

The funny thing is I do know this stuff! Things never work out with a camera on you ;)

Yeah I'm in the UK, 60/40 solder is available to consumers, but not legal for manufacturers.
 
Top