But I thought Australia is one of the finest components sellers.

No, Rifaa.. China is the #1 seller of fine electronics components. Their lithium cells and LEDs can not be beat.

They are almost as reliable as a Zippo lighter.

 

My Electrical Utility gave away Compact Fluorescent light bulbs to help reduce electrical consumption. They were made in China.
They were all recalled because they burned, melted then dripped flames.
The cheating Chinese manufacturer copied another company's certification label!

 

Well, you would use less power when your house is burned to the ground.

 

Well, you would use less power when your house is burned to the ground.

What the ..............LMAOF

 

Maybe my home would be a dead short to the electrical utility if it burned to the ground.
My breaker box might short if it was in a fire and I don't know if the transformer outside down the street is fused.

 

Ok so if were done sorta talking
Does anyone know where i can find a circuit (TV Jammer) that axtually works properly with the wall bouncing because i love that., i understand that 1000ma is sort of alot, so wouldnt this lower the life of the LED's, but any way how would i make one that worked, i think that all of the jammer circuits need to do is create pulses of IR light to interrupt the actual signal so i need high speed switching right? MOSFET maybe that will allow the 20,000 switches per second and a higher ma to my LED's

Chris

 

i understand that 1000ma is sort of alot, so wouldnt this lower the life of the LED's?

The LEDs in a remote control are made for 1A pulses. The pulses have a very short duration and a remote control is never pulsing continuously anyway.

i think that all of the jammer circuits need to do is create pulses of IR light to interrupt the actual signal so i need high speed switching right? MOSFET maybe that will allow the 20,000 switches per second

A TV remote control modulates its IR beam at 36kHz, 38kHz, 40kHz or 56kHz.

and a higher ma to my LED's

Your LEDs might not survive a higher current. You also must reduce the pulse width.

 

Here's a start on it anyway. See the attached.

You must use CMOS 555 timers. BJT 555 timers won't work.

The left timer (U1) output is about 1/20th the frequency of the right timer, and roughly a square wave. When it's output is low, it keeps C1 discharged via D4, a Schottky diode. Using the RESET input of U2 wasn't a good option.

VR1 adjusts the frequency of U2. When set to midrange, it's about 40kHz.

Q2 won't sink more than about 450mA, even if R5 is decreased. If you want higher peak current, a MOSFET will have to be used, and the gate drive will need a different configuration than Q2.

 

thanks everyone, SgtWookie, so are the 555 in this schematic the normal ones, sorry i dont know what BJT is

 

Found this, and thought it would be helpful. Another circuit design.

It is tuned to the typical frequency of 38kHz and you can increase the range as required

http://www.electronic-circuits-diagrams.com/funimages/4.gif

 

thanks everyone, SgtWookie, so are the 555 in this schematic the normal ones, sorry i dont know what BJT is

Examples of CMOS 555 part numbers that will work:
TLC555, ICM7555, LMC555
Note the "C" in the first few characters of the part number.

Examples of BJT (bipolar junction transistor) 555 part numbers that won't work with the circuit I posted:
LM555, NE555, SE555
Note that there is no "C" before the 555 in those part numbers.
There may be a "C" after the 555, but that means something else.

 

Found this, and thought it would be helpful. Another circuit design.

It is missing an important supply bypass capacitor that will hold the supply voltage up when the transistor turns on the LEDs.

The circuit as shown limits the LED current to only 3.9mA.

 

The circuit as shown limits the LED current to only 3.9mA.

And 3.9mA is rather small for a the LED's or a IR transmitter. You will have to be close to the TV. So close, you might as well put your hand over the receiver.

 

ok so i will pick up those parts from jaycar, and build SgtWookie's circuit is the current at the LED(s) 1000ma, this will then give me the wall bouncing, as for the LED's i need the TV remote ones, i was told i cant get these at a electronics shop, so can i order them maybe off ebay, or smash a remote controll.
Chris