If there is a decent electrical maintenance dept there, they certainly should have a Megger.
Max.

 

http://eurtonelectric.com/pdf/Eurton Parts Catalog 08 Brush Caps.pdf

 

Thanks for the link, I'm guessing it's the 5/16 -32, so I had better verify.

Also, I will check with a freind at work.
Perhaps they have a Megger.

Regards,
Gary

 

I'll bet you a dust bunny that it fails.

 

I'll bet you a dust bunny that it fails.

Pessimist!!
Max.

 

The store in the link has a min. order of $10.00, plus $9.00 + for S and H.
I think I'll make my own somehow.

Thanks

 

A megger hits all the intentional conductors with a voltage pulse to see if it escapes to the metal case of the drill. You could do a similar test by plugging it into a wall outlet and seeing if any current flows from the case to a completely separate ground.

But you already did that, and current escaped! That's why I would offer to bet it fails the megger test.

Just messing with you,

 

That's why I would offer to bet it fails the megger test.

Just messing with you,

'Always Look on the Bright side of Life'

Monty Python.
Life of Brian.

 

If the brushes are removed, then it just leave the field to test for leakage, It could be the armature, but unlikely?
You would have to identify both sides of the field as one would be connected a brush holder connection, one side to the AC in.
Either way I would hang in there, it may not be a right off yet!!
A megger is a high voltage AC generated signal, usually selectable from 500vac up.
Max.

 

A megger is a high voltage AC generated signal, usually selectable from 500vac up.
Max.

Megger is DC. Hipot is AC. At least that's been the case with every megger I've ever heard of.

 

Megger is DC. Hipot is AC. .

Correct, My error.
Max.

 

And the winner is Dust Bunnies!
I talked to a friend at work, with 40 years experience on industrial motors, and he agrees that it's a short, probably in the windings.

I found a couple of rubber plugs to put the brushes back in, checked the case to the brushes, and no continuity (good so far).

I laid the motor in a plastic box, and hooked up power, and it ran great for a couple of minutes.

I unplugged it, and checked it again, and it now had continuity (same test), and the case was very warm (propably 110 degrees).

I'm going to save the switch and the chuck.............

Thanks for all the input. I learned a good lesson, and didn't get killed.

Be safe out there, (my friend told me some horror stories today).

Gary

 

It is always nice to hear how a story ends - thanks for that. I'll give you a 9/10 on the safety meter - good technique.

Sorry to hear your nostalgic drill didn't work out.

 

Disconnect and tape the wires internally(so it won't work) and mount it above your bench for nostalgia. The switch won't fit anything other than that brand/model, and the chuck is not near as good as a newer model.

 

Put it back on ebay,with 'Needs a Little Attention'!
Max.