... this is just ridiculous for some place that sells parts to overlook. This means you must look up and check the data sheet carefully, not rely on the place that is selling the part to post the correct ratings.

Buying parts without checking the manufacturer's data sheet is a risky scheme. Selecting parts is even worse.

 

Hi,

Yes i find this to be a problem with several kinds of parts such as LEDs too where the brightness is sometimes exaggerated by 10 times due to a "typo".
What i never see though is a "typo" that UNDER RATES the brightness. For example if the brightness is really 0.1 units, i might see 1 unit posted, but if it is 1.0 units i never see 0.1 posted. It's always an error that makes the LED look better than it really is, never the other way around.
I like to call this, "Fictitious Marketing".

 

We need to back up a bit.

What are the loads that you wish to select between?
Do they all require the same voltage and current?
What voltage, and what current (or wattage or VA rating) ?

Note that virtually all rotary switches that you will find are only rated for low voltage (perhaps 50V or less), and fractions of Amperes; they are signal-level rather than for switching "real" power.

If you wish to drive/control line-powered AC loads, or even high-current DC loads, you won't be able to do so directly; you will instead need to use electro-mechanical relays, MOSFETs, or in the case of AC, TRIACS or electro-optical relays (the latter commonly referred to as SSR's for Solid State Relays).

 

Just needing to switch voltage between devices. 120v AC. No current. Wow, those are a lot of choices. I'll do some studying up on them. Thanks everyone for the info thus far.