How to get successful for micro usb replacement.

Discussion in 'General Electronics Chat' started by UnnamedUser159, May 3, 2016.

  1. UnnamedUser159

    Thread Starter Member

    May 3, 2016
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    Hi from me.
    I think i have some experience in the electronics - software, hardware and "hand"ware(soldering, desoldering, measurement and others). The one i didn`t do successfully yet is micro usb replacement. Every time the electric tracks(paths) are going off. I want to desolder normal way the microusb,clean the wholes and mount the new port. I think i have all the needed tools and consumables. I am scare not to spoil everything and to have to buy a new tablet. I use the heat gun but nothing is happened and when apply some more force the usb port is going partly out and everything goes to hell. I have heat resistance tape here and almost new flux pen. What is the normal temperature (celsius) with i won`t spoil anything but got the job done - I talk for the heat gun - it is YaXun 881D.

    Thanks in adnvance!


    Mods edit:
    Please don't hijack other member's thread, now you have your own.
    This thread was split from -- Need help how to de-solder micro-b usb connector.
     
  2. NoelSof

    New Member

    Sep 22, 2015
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    Micro usb port is a surface-mount device that has 4 additional legs to secure it in place. Remove them first with a soldering iron and a solder sucker.
    It sounds to me that you have already ruined the tracks in your first try.

    WP_20160503_012.jpg
     
  3. UnnamedUser159

    Thread Starter Member

    May 3, 2016
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    0
    Hi there.
    First of all i want to apologyze if i have choosed wrong category in the forum. I will understand where exactly to post my things soon:)

    I have one tablet by myside. It was in this condition when i see it. I`ve cleaned the board where the microusb should be soldered with F-02 Anti-Flux Spray but i dont think that this tablet gonna works. I have here lacker(i hope that`s the correct word because my translation in Google) with Silver for building paths but maybe is very micro for me if at all it could be done succesfully.

    Greetings :)

    *Chance

    [Moderator's note: This post moved from another thread about the same tablet.]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: May 5, 2016
  4. UnnamedUser159

    Thread Starter Member

    May 3, 2016
    130
    0
    So first of all Have to add new tino on these four(in this case) points and remove all the tino with solder sucker from these four holes?
    Then just use the heat gun and the whole usb port should falls off? What is a good temperature in celsius for that and for example in what minutes it will be heated good to goes off? Of course i want only a approximately time ;

    :)
     
  5. jpanhalt

    AAC Fanatic!

    Jan 18, 2008
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    A picture of what you have done will be worth a 1000 words or more. That way, it will be possible to see what damage may have been done to the board.

    There is a type of silver coating that can be soldered to; however, from your description of using a "lacquer" in your other thread, I do not think what have can be soldered.

    The subjects in your three threads subjects seem enough alike that a single thread may be the best way to get help that will not be confusing.

    John
     
  6. UnnamedUser159

    Thread Starter Member

    May 3, 2016
    130
    0
    So..

    one question is for procedure of micro usb replacement. I did it one-two times maybe but not successfull.

    "
    So first of all Have to add new tino on these four(in this case) points and remove all the tino with solder sucker from these four holes?
    Then just use the heat gun and the whole usb port should falls off? What is a good temperature in celsius for that and for example in what minutes it will be heated good to goes off? Of course i want only a approximately time ;
    "

    question #2
    I attach 2 images of tablet board and the question is it it posible at all to be inserted full functional microusb on that board

    ;) IMG_20160505_100728.jpg IMG_20160505_100743.jpg
     
  7. jpanhalt

    AAC Fanatic!

    Jan 18, 2008
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    It appears that the pads in the area labeled USB have been damaged and perhaps destroyed:
    upload_2016-5-5_8-12-34.png

    There do appear to be plated through vias that may be connected to where the pads were. If that is the case, the solder mask on those vias can be removed. I have used a "spot sanding pen" to do that. Here is an example:
    upload_2016-5-5_8-16-58.png

    The pen allows fine control of the area to be scraped and does not remove the thin copper ring around the via. However, one can also use a sharp, pointed blade like a #11 to do the same.

    Once you remove the solder mask from the via, you will have something to solder to. It is detailed work, but can be done. Silver bearing conductive ink might also work, but as mentioned, you probably cannot solder to it.

    John
     
  8. UnnamedUser159

    Thread Starter Member

    May 3, 2016
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    My head is getting white. I am mad.

    I put the tape to protect the smd elements.

    I see in video in WWW that they heat on side which from we can see the 5 pins. They are heating the two+two not electric pins and the 5 pins. After maybe minute and everything is ok in the clip - the microusb port is not anymore at the board. In the clip they say 275 Farenheit. I calculate it to 135 C. Nothing is happening. I am scare to do things on my own. I dont scare to send the board to hell, just want to ask before doing stupid things.

    I am ataching photos... :(

    IMG_20160508_155406.jpg IMG_20160508_155418.jpg IMG_20160508_155431.jpg
     
  9. jpanhalt

    AAC Fanatic!

    Jan 18, 2008
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    None of the common solders melt at 135°C! Are you sure they meant 275°F?
    upload_2016-5-8_9-13-58.png

    What video are you trying to follow?

    John
     
  10. bertus

    Administrator

    Apr 5, 2008
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  11. KeepItSimpleStupid

    Well-Known Member

    Mar 4, 2014
    1,136
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    Three pads are GONE!

    So, you can try putting them back on using copper tape: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10561
    You will have to remove the resist from the VIAs and connect to the vias.

    Wire-wrap wire is often used for repair. It will be DIFFICULT.
     
  12. NoelSof

    New Member

    Sep 22, 2015
    10
    0
    Is that the same board? I thought the port is already popped off in your previous picture?
    I'm confused.
    And now you want to detach it again.
    Anyway, If the 4 legs have been desoldered, you can carefully put a gentle tension upward on the port, with like a needle, and then blow the hot air to it.
    When the solder wants to melt it will melt, so please stop calculating that temperature nonsense.
     
  13. MrAl

    Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2014
    2,418
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    Hi,

    Notwithstanding the apparent failure of this current project, this is a very good thread. I say this because i think a lot of people are going to want to do this in the future. I base that on complaints i have read around the web about devices that have micro USB connectors on the product board. They dont like them because they are too fragile. That combined with the fact that they are installed on some VERY expensive equipment means people are going to want to change them at some point or maybe pay someone to change them for them. I am hoping that in most cases this is possible if done right. I myself have not done a replacement job yet though, so i have no idea how hard this would be to do even starting fresh with a good board with no ruined traces.

    I have had one experience already though with a mini USB connector on a board. I can only imagine the same problem with a micro USB connector in some situations. What happened was when i went to pull the USB plug out of the socket on the board i lifted it up slightly as i was pulling, and it ripped the whole connector right off the board surface. Unfortunately that also lifted some traces going to the connector. The product the board goes in still works, but there's no USB connectivity anymore. For an expensive device this can be very troubling.

    A work around for smart phones (and other devices) is to get a Universal Li-ion battery charger, and take the battery out to charge it in the battery charger. It is more of a pain but at least you can still use the phone. The Universal type chargers have a moving connector system where you slide the connectors to fit the battery, so they fit a wide range of battery makes and models. For example my charger works on any cell phone battery and also my camera battery, and these batteries are very different sizes (but all are the flat ones).

    I probably cant fix that mini USB connector but if they are removed carefully they might be replaceable. SMD parts are not really made to be unsoldered and resoldered though, and those traces are very small and narrow so they will lift off the board easy. We'd have to use the least heat possible for the shortest time.
    What might help possibly is to experiment with some devices you dont want any more, such as old stuff laying around taking up space and collecting dust. Try taking the connector off carefully and replacing it, then testing for operational function. If it works, you must really know what you are doing and can probably go on to fix the devices you really need to fix :)

    Good luck to all.
     
  14. jpanhalt

    AAC Fanatic!

    Jan 18, 2008
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    Actually, I was was curious about the video to which the TS referred, as one possibility is that a bismuth or indium solder (e.g., ChipQuik, http://www.chipquik.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=210002 ) had been added to lower the resulting alloy's melting point. Of course, adding that other "solder" is an important detail that the TS didn't mention and probably didn't do.

    John
     
  15. takao21203

    Distinguished Member

    Apr 28, 2012
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    strange techniques.

    sometimes I need to solder these.
    All I use is a broad tip.

    If youve ruined the tracks you need a breakout PCB for the new socket, then use wires.
    With a point tip you cant solder USB socket. You need to solder them completely with plenty of solder, or they wont stick properly to the PCB.

    micro USB is a total disaster, I bought almost 20 yokes, none works properly. Mini USB never a problem.
    Whats this good for, to save 2mm thickness or 3mm?
     
  16. R!f@@

    AAC Fanatic!

    Apr 2, 2009
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    I use liquid solder and flux to solder these microUSB's. Easy peasy !

    If the tracks are gone then it is hell. Cannot use solder paste and heat gun. Manually solder thin wires to the USB pin and then solder the port using a fine tip.
    Dunno if you could do that without a microscope but tht's how I do it.
     
  17. UnnamedUser159

    Thread Starter Member

    May 3, 2016
    130
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    So...
    i work in small service and am still learning and dont really like to cannot do something. Have enough strenght and madness to learn the most things no matter what will be break and on.... have to do the most things which dont requiere very expensive "tools".

    I also thought about that temperature. But maybe the first video in Google shows that. Maybe it`s fu*king mistake. Are gonna 275 C fail something?

    Some king of joke - maybe people uploaded this video want the people to fail they board and the next time to pay them 30$ for this service.

    Greetings
     
  18. Sensacell

    Well-Known Member

    Jun 19, 2012
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    It's important to acknowledge that these modern electronic devices are NOT intended to be repaired.
    What you are attempting borders on impossible- unless you want to invest an inordinate amount of time and energy perfecting some technique that still might fail 40% of the time.

    If you do the math on what your time and sanity are worth- it's not a good rate of return.
     
  19. R!f@@

    AAC Fanatic!

    Apr 2, 2009
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    I beg to differ.
    So far I had 100% success on these kinda of problems
     
  20. jpanhalt

    AAC Fanatic!

    Jan 18, 2008
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    You have mentioned a couple of videos of the process and particularly the one you followed. It's likely I missed the links. Can you repost them or give the reply number that has them?

    John
     
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