tiny drill bits which, matter of fact, they sell for next to nothing for a bag of them.

The problem with the HF carbide bits is that most of them are either too big or too small to use. Only a few are just right. And half are not bits at all. They are rasps or some such thing.

 

I still have yet to break a drill bit. I do not force them, I go as slow as can be. Works for me. The How I make PCBs thread has several good sources for carbide PCB drill bits, you don't even need to modify the drill press.

 

However, it is a major problem keeping the etchant off the side you are not working on, so this may not be practical.

3M "Blue" painters tape fixes this issue, it comes off easily and leaves little or no residue. Etching with the "sponge method", which means applying etchant with the yellow sponge side of a 3M dual side pad (sponge/scotch-brite) saves on etchant, is faster, and reduces amount of etchant that hits the back side.

Use SMD components where you can. Drilling Sucks. SOIC, SOT-23, and 0803 resistors and caps are large enough to easily solder if you have flux and solder wick (no reflow needed).

Where you have to drill (or make registration holes/marks), get the carbide bits shown above, which have a large shank, but taper down. A Drill press is basically required for this. $40 will get you a dremel drill press, just run at a slow speed.

For the "pretty green color", once etched and drilled, solder the pads that will be used. Then spray the board with Testors 1601 Transparent Emerald Green (3 oz spray can, $4). Let paint dry. Desolder the solder you applied and you have a "Solder mask" looking board. Testors doesn't stand up to the heat of the soldering iron, so it is removed with a solder sucker. It's a good deal of extra work and not often worth it, but possible. PRACTICE MANY TIMES FIRST!

PCB In A Box company sells white TRF that can be used for a silkscreen with the standard toner transfer method, giving great results. If you do not paint the board first, standard toner transfer once the etching is done gives a nice black colored silkscreen for component labels.

For toner transfer, use a hot roller laminator and a few passes. The ironing method smears traces and pads, and if not careful, can re-position the entire etch.

 

I use 8 passes on the laminator for a clean transfer. As I've said, there has to be better techniques out there.

I'm not going to be using SMT anytime soon, as it isn't part of my hobby. I've done it professionally, and know how to do it, but I like through hole for fiddling around.

 

I normally use HSS and a hand drill (I've a very steady hand). Since HSS will tolerate tension a bit better than HSS, I don't break bits very often. However, HSS bits tend to wear quite faster than carbide bits, especially if you are drilling glass fibre boards. And they tend to stuck often when they get old (and that's why I break them).

It you are using a hand drill with HSS bits, go high speed with the smaller ones (from 0.6mm to 1.5mm). 12000 r.p.m. should do. With bigger ones, you should go really slow (I normally use a electrical screwdriver with a drill adapter for the bigger holes, instead of the hand drill), or else these bits will jump out of the hole and will mess up your board. Also, always use a 0.6mm drill first to make pilot holes. I normally use a punch to mark the holes before drilling.

 

This is a very handy critter for drilling PCB's, as it is made for the job. The drill is a miniature drill press. You can see how thick the shaft is. The label rates it at 17,000 RPM. Carbide bits last forever.

I added the shaft to the motion wheel that lifts the cast iron plate. It's handier than twisting the knob by hand. I have seen one outfit that had the Dumore screwed to a tabletop, and had rigged a treadle to lift the plate.

 

Nice drill beenthere! Well, speaking for myself I don't have issues against drill presses, as they really make a nice job. But they are stupidly expensive here in Portugal.

 

I'm using a dremel drill press "attachment"(see picture).
I used to wield the dremel by hand, but I had to be very careful not to snap drillbits.
I'm very happy with how the drill press worked out for me.

-
Kolbjørn

 

I'm using a dremel drill press "attachment"(see picture).
I used to wield the dremel by hand, but I had to be very careful not to snap drillbits.
I'm very happy with how the drill press worked out for me.

-
Kolbjørn

Yeah, that is exactly what I have. I misplaced it for a while, and was very pissed at myself, as they are expensive. I showed a picture of it in my How I make PCBs article.

They magnifying headgear is also critical in my book, or reading glasses. It substitutes well for safety glasses.

 

Here is a link to a home made Dremel drill press made for drilling PCB's. The author,D.J. Delorie, is very active on another forum, Homebrew PCB. http://www.delorie.com/pcb/dremel-stand/

 

I'm using a dremel drill press "attachment"(see picture).
...

Nice clean holes! What kind of drill bits did you use? HSS or carbide?

...The author,D.J. Delorie, is very active on another forum, Homebrew PCB. ...

D. J. Delorie, do you know him? He is the creator of DJGPP, a free C++ compiler! Indeed, a wooden press like that is an idea to consider.

 

D. J. Delorie, do you know him? He is the creator of DJGPP, a free C++ compiler! Indeed, a wooden press like that is an idea to consider.

Only from his posting on other websites.